dripley

A month or so ago I was leaving my brothers house when i noticed that my ABS airbag and brake were lit on the dash. I stopped and restarted the engine and the lights went away. Had that happen a couple more times when i noticed that the ignition switch was not returning all the way after starting. The switch had also been stiff to turn a few times. Figured my stater switch was giving out. I broke out my new key thats been hanging on the wall since i bought the truck and that issue went a way. So figured the old key might have been the cause. I could even remove that old key with the engine running, it was pretty worn after 14 years of use. I have not had those troubles on since. But I have notced that the switch will still rotate slightly from the run position towards the start position, maybe a quarter inch or so. Is there any way to test the starter switch to see if it is bad? 2 or 3 days ago I noticed that my turn signals did not come on when switched on. I had to turn them once or twice for the to work. This morning they just quit working. The head lights, tail lights, and parking lights are working just fine. The wipers are functioning fine too. the 4 way flashers are also working. I am thinking the flasher for the signals is just bad and will check that when I have time. If not is there any way to determine if the multi function switch is bad?

Looking good there.

If the lights are going bright and dim on cold start up, that is just the grid heaters cycling on and off heating the in take air. They draw a lot of power. i have to agree every thing looked pretty normal. Mine used to idle just above 850 until I put RV275 injectors in. The idle then dropped to 800 for some reason. Been like that for 6 years or so.

Sending unit could be bad or the float could be hung. Not sure how to check that with opening up the tank. From what I was told the RV's are a more efficient injector over stock and so the difference. Not sure where the tipping point is on injectors before you start loosing mileage. Of course quality of the injector would make a difference too. Others here will know more than me. Of course your right foot will make a lot difference too.

Just curious as to how high an rpm you turn and experience the surging. I personally dont go past the redline on the tach, on purpose anyway.

When mine was new I used to get 17 mpg running the interstate around 75 mph. Over the years I have done 3 performance upgrades. The first was the Banks Stinger Plus system. While I got good power out of the mileage remained the same. Not a bad thing, 75 hp, that I used a lot, and no mpg loss. The next was RV275's and I pickup 1 mpg. Now i am 18 mpg. The third is the edge comp I installed after the banks tuner crapped out. I picked up another 1 mpg. So now running 75 I am getting 19 mpg. The extra power is nice and I do used it. The long highway trips I make it is not really needed. For now running about 600 miles a week 65/35 highway and in town and getting 16 mpg. I cant complain with a truck that weigh 7500 pounds.

I had to replace the passenger negative cable. I used one of the military style connectors. I cut the damage terminal off and skinned a 1/2" or more of the insulation to be sure the wire was not corroded and soldered a new terminal on. It is quite easy to do.

how about a building supply, Home depot, Lowe, Menards whatever Any place like that should have them too. It is all common stuff. I never shopped for this stuff in New York, closest I ever got was New Jersey but they had that kind of stuff there.

Fill it up and just see what you really have. On pure highway run I can get about 425 miles out of the first half a tank, but only 225 out of the second half. It used to be the reverse until I had the in tank pump installed. It then changed a little after installing my AD.

Thats what I am talking about.

No I cant knock the redneck carpentry. I served its purpose for now. If it was not for redneck engineering where would we all be. i do like all the data you can get. Never thought I would until I got my scan gauge. Not sure what to do with all of it but it has helped me see what is going on in areas I am not used to seeing. Hammer on potato man.

I drilled mine with the proper size bit only. I took a small rag and stuffed it in the manifold and used a shop vac to suck out the shavings after drilling. There was really not much that fell thru the hole. If I missed any thing it was so small it passed thru the turbo. It is just not that difficult to do. On another note just add 50* to what you are seeing and you should be fine. I have only seen 1300 or so under 2 circumstances. The first was my first towing trip after the new clutch and comp addition. i pulled several hills at 6 or 7% grade but the longest was maybe a third of mile. Had the comp on 2X3 pretty much full throttle GCVW at about 23k and 1250 to 1300 was the max I saw. I am sure a longer grade would have been different and I would need to back out Maybe next time. The other is sticking my foot in it empty on 5x5. The comp fuels so hard compared to the Banks tuner I had that I have to be careful. Not so much for EGT's as for the redline. I am not sure when it defuels but I have caught my self at redline many times. Just does not want to stop accelerating. Around 1200 to 1250 is the most I have seen in this case. I guess it is a personal decision for you and I hope I have not muddied the water to bad. re locating the probe is not difficult unless the fitting breaks off. Then it will be expensive. If you have other needs for you truck I would not place this one in front of others you may need more. Just keep watching the gauge and see if you driving style is pushing the temps to the high side regularly then you might have to re prioritize things.

Comp+rv275's+HX35=a lot of fun for me. But I do see how addicting wanting more can be. Me, I think I would be a menace to society if I had much more. Good luck on quest. And by the way, I would love to take a ride in your truck.

My drive shaft rebuild is coming soon. I think at 370k i got my moneys worth out of it. Plus I have a small vibration that I believe is in the carrier bearing or the balance is off. Might as well do the whole shaft.

I was more worried about the ujoints than anything.

I was talking to someone the other day about doing a burnout. Only thing that was holding me back is a driveline all oe with 370k on it. Not sure how much stress it would take.

I need IBMobile right now. Bet he has a flaming Ripley in his emotican stash somewhere. As far as the wood goes, my daddy's deck was built out of kiln dried white pine. A favorite vertical framing lumber out my way. The paint on the deck helped contribute to the early demise. It just holds the moisture in and speeds up the process. Doug Fir is a lumber we dont see out this way much at all. We used to use Fir for all of our exterior trim due to it weathering better but there is not alot of that out this way and it started to get very expensive and we drifted away from using it. Maybe the doug fir will hold up better but it is still going to a maintenance issue. I put some cedar lap siding on part of my house about 2 years ago. It came out of a Roadhouse Grill we tore down. it had some form of finish on it, not sure what. I added 2 coats of SPAR urethane to it before install. The gable that is in the sun all day already needs my attention. It is weathering fast. Could be the oils in the cedar dont like the finish. We used to put cedar shingles on the Burger Kings I built many years ago. Any where we had to caulk we used silicone. It would go on very well but you could go back a couple months later and grab the caulk and just pull it right off of the cedar like it never stuck to it.

Remind me not to smoke on your deck if I get there at the wrong time.

I agree with Mike on the pump. Many re sellers and few rebuilders. You could check with DAP or Vulcan performance. Both are vendors here. They both sell pumps with new PSG's, 2 year warranties and one year warranties.. This will give you something to compare with. Curios as to how you checked to be sure you are not getting air into the system? it just sounds so much like that is what is going on. Hate for you to throw $1500 at it and not solve the issue.

I dont know which 3 fire, but if it is 2,4,and 6 you would not be reading but one live cylinder. Could be the difference. If you plug the hole just put anti seize on it. Personally I would just leave it alone.

While there are good preservatives out there just remember it will be a yearly or by yearly thing you will need to do to protect the wood. My father bought a house back when I was in the 6th grade that had a big painted deck on it. It was built out of framing lumber and we tore it down 5 years later due to rot. I remember my daddy coming home and telling me he bought some presents. I jumped pretty darn excited. He gave me a crowbar and a 3 pound hammer and told me he wanted it down by the time he got home from work the next day. Sure took the fun out of getting presents.

Does not sound out of the ordinary to me. I might see 50* more than you cruising level ground but climbing a grade sounds about right. All depends on how far you stick your foot in it.

Some do some dont. I dont but do think it is not a bad idea. Cheap insurance and I just may do it so day. Mine appears to seal just fine.

Did you learn you woodworking skills from Jag?

Not sure what "manifold" you are talking about with a return. There is one on the back of the cylinder head and it ties into a tee about a foot below that. If air is getting into the return line on the back of the head and/or the tee below, it would not show up in the fuel supply, ie the clear hose you used. Both are after the supply side of things. They allow air in and the fuel drains back to the tank. Crimping the line cuts off the route for the fuel to go back to the tank.