dripley

I need some on mine. This would be a lot better than to new plastic fenders like what came on it. If you know someone who has a metal break you could just crease them a little near the roll for a little rigidity. I like them.

I bought both my 5th wheels new. Traded the first one in on the second one and still owed money. At the time all I had to do was walk in the bank and tell them how much to write the check for. Talk about being upside down. One of the biggest mistakes I ever made. i just paid the second off a month ago but it took every extra dime I had to do it. Spent the last 2 years averaging $1000 a month just on principle. It was a PITA but walking in the bank and giving them the last $145 and change in cash was fun. I hope you were smarter than me when you purchased yours.

Your could hammer the roll into the aluminum if you had a form to do it around with a rubber mallet. You could at least try it on a piece of scrap. It does look good.

i just looked it up and it says you can get 20% off if that but did not check on shipping. About the same with the discount. appears that shipping is free also. Timbo $165 per his site.

Whens your birthday? Maybe the good fairy will send you one.

A mechanical gauge is connected directly to what it is reading. IE my fuel pressure gauge is connected to the fuel sytem, boost gauge is connected to the intake. Both directly connected. in order for the pyro to be mechanical it would need to not have an amplifier. Not sure how that is done, i never tried to find one. I am sure someone could explain that better than me. Or I might be wrong!!!

Nothing wrong with new blade either. Our store front installers cut all of there window mullions with miter saws and the blades last a good while. I have cut a lot of aluminum and brass with a skill saw. The cuts are only as good as the one doing the cutting. An emory wheel in the grinder is great for dressing the edges. The table saw is going to help a lot for cleaner edges I would think.

When I had the same issue I replaced the sealing washers. The rubber on them gets hard and does not seal as well. Mine looked and felt more like washer than a washer with rubber on it. No more than they cost replacing them will last a lot longer, plus the bolt is hollow and can snap off if you tighten it to much. so be careful.

I ran a 2 pump set up many years ago on mine. I had the in tank like you and a booster pump mounted to the frame rail. I cut it into the oe fuel lines and used hose and clamps for that. I never had any issues with those connections. Ran that set up for 4 years or so. It is not the best setup by any means but it worked.

There is no check valve. Once you kill the engine the pressure bleeds off but the lines hold the fuel. An air leak allows the fuel to drain back to the tank.

I lost both of mine a while back. Seems I blow a tire every 3 or 4 years and what ever is there is suddenly missing. i do like the diamond plate however. I still get puzzled looks when I tell folks how easy it is to cut.

One day maybe. For now the EV's will have to keep me happy.

I installed the pyro and tranny amplifiers under the shifter console to the floor board. Wanted them out of the engine compartment. It has worked fine so far. The only draw back is if you have a problem with one you have to remove the console to get to them.

Just to throw this out there, the other day I noticed that my abs, brake light and air bag light was lit and no speedo. I have been having some issues with the switch being stiff lately and noticed I could remove the key after starting while the engine was running. i stopped and restarted the truck and thats when I noticed the switch was not returning all the way after releasing it so the next time it happened I manually returned the switch and the lights went out immediately. While I see yours is a wiring issue mine seems to be a worn out switch and key. 14+years on the one key has taken its toll. I started using my spare key which is new and and the issue seems to be gone now.

I will give that a try. I have the later model MAP sensor that requires an adapter pig tail. I still have the oe and dont think there is anything wrong with it. Might swap them out. I never had this issue until some time after I swapped the new one in. Not instantly after but some time after. Never associated the problem with the map or possibly the wire tap. Can you screw the stealth plate tap in too far and damage anything?

Guess I got to dig a little deeper. It started surging again today. No codes, and not surging a lot but still surging.

I would want to check the diff fluid since you said some one just serviced it. I would want to know if it is low before I took it back to who ever serviced it. Do you know what kind of lube they put in the dif? And if a LS rear did they put the extra lube for the clutches. Not sure the latter would cause the overheating though,

Dif, bearings or brakes is about it.

I dont know what is right, but my codes are there key on and after start. CEL on or not.The only other time i had something different was when the ECM crapped out. That was exciting to say the least. Another mystery of life I guess.

My scan gauge will show whatever codes that are in there whether the cel is lit or not. When my TPS was surging it did not set the CEL but the 122 code was present engine running or not. My CEL stays on from key on to engine start, thought they all did. I dont know what the difference between the two are but if I ever get near a smarty I might stick on there and see what happens.

Cant be that hard to find. You should be able to go to hardware store or nut and bolt supply and find something that will work. Some of the building supplies out my way have auto fastener sections in the hardware dept also.

Vulcan has who you need. I would suggest you call and tell them what you are trying to do. He will help you get what you need. There will be some variables with what you are doing.

Have not figured it out yet. Started raining here. I cant see anything out of the ordinary. No dangling parts or anything loose and no fluid leaking anywhere. Truck is driving fine. I guess I could have run over something but as loud as the bang was it seems like I would have seen something or felt something. So for now it is still a mystery.

The intank pump fuel module will work, but you do have to modify it. My AD came with a kit to do just that. I removed the pump, modified the pickup into a second return for the AD and added a new fitting to the top for the pick up line. No issues with it since the install 5 or 6 years ago. But there is no need to buy an in tank pump module just to throw away the pump. The draw straw is a good option though. Not knocking it at all. Here is a article on Mike's install of his AD. Scroll toward the bottom and it shows how he installed his draw straw. Notice the way that he cut the end of the straw so it would not suck down to the tank. It is cut square with 4 notches 90* from each other. He seems to have very good service with it for at least a decade.

I think what is being asked is is there any difference between a gas fuel module as compared to the diesel. I have module in mine from the intank pump from dodge. It looks just like the Liberty module that Vualcan sells minus the mods made for the fass and the mods I did for the air dog install. Are there any seals in the module? I dont remember any in mine when I modded it, all the fuels just clamped on.The only seals I remember are on the external connections. I have another question about the modules in general. Does the fuel module not stay on the bottom of the tank all the time? It appeared that what to me when I did mine.