dripley

My 02 has key less entry but no security system. That I believe was an option.

Mount a scan gauge on the steering cover and all of those annoying lights disappear.

I would definitely call Valair or DAP And discuss it. i cant help but think that is part of the reason I had premature failure of the throw out bearing on mine. I had an instance of clutch slipping one day when the clutch was fairly new, 20k miles or so, that a binding throw out bearing might have caused. I went away as fast as it showed up and I just put it out of my mind.

I was surprised when I saw the in tank pump and the fact that a portion of the flow of that pump is diverted to open the little flapper in the bottom of the basket to help draw fuel into the basket. Lot a work for that little pump to do.

You definitely dont have to have a CEL for codes to be present.

I have never tried this so how hard is it to push the clutch in thru the slave hole when you dont have the mechanical advantage of the clutch pedal? Sure looks like it would it would be difficult. i believe you answered my question. My issues was caused by the throw out bearing binding on input sleeve the best I could tell. It was dry. I added some grease to it and did not completely fix it. The new SB I just had installed does not bind at all and it is working off the same hydros. I think the FSM is more dealing with problems with hydros that have been in for a while. Just my 2 cents worth. Katoom and you seem to be getting it covered.

FWIW I lost my oe lift pump at 150k. Truck just died. I had no gauge to even no how low the pressure was. I ran that pump another 70k before replacing it. It had not died but went thru another bout of low fuel pressure with the in tank pump dodge gave me. I had extra money then and just replaced it not wanting to get stranded somewhere. All this was before finding Mike's farm here. Knowing what I know today I dont think I would have replaced when I did. But you really never know, I have seen folks loose both at the same time and others such as myself loose one and not the other. Kind of a crap shoot. Good luck with yours.

Thats where the diagram shows it, just like your photo shows it. https://mopar1973man.com/external-media/pdf/1999Ramparts.pdf#view=FitB&page=574 I hope that links the page. It shows the auto brake pedal; The page with the clutch pedal does not show a brake pedal. I could not find a diagram showing both pedals. I see no reason for it not to be as shown on the diagram though. it appears that link does not take you to the exact page. It is page page 95 in that section.

That answers my thoughts on how it would fit on the fender well. I made me a cradle for the BHAF to sit it and that one wont quite get to it. I would have to make something different for that. Thanks for the photo.

Yes it will. It will get worse until one day it will not work at all. Just the nature of the problem.

i went digging around in the parts look up just trying to see if maybe the spring was available some where else. No luck but the diagram only showed one of those springs on the brake pedal and none on the clutch. The one you have is probably good. As far as grease I would think most anything would work. It's not like it is under a lot stress.

Good to hear. I love it when a plan comes together.

If he had used those he would have got some serious power to the VP.

I removed all of that from mine, thats why I dont remember it.

i think I saw that thread. Good deal my man.

While I am sure the SB and the Valair are both good units I have been using a whatever Auto zone gave me for a master cylinder for 150k mile now and the slave is a chinese from Rock Auto and has been on here 100k miles. I am still using the oe reservoir and tubing. The master has seen my oe clutch, Valair replacement and now the SB replacement. Although not long on the SB. Not a lick of trouble yet. I have less than $100 in both of them, I am thinking about $75. Food for thought.

Where did you get those for $100? The link I saw for them the other day listed them for $200 or so.

The only stock lines I used were the VP/engine(back of the head)lines. They are joined by a tee at the back of the engine. Your are pretty much doing the same thing(return fuel to the basket)in a different manor. Both ways work. think you did the right thing getting a Fass and not the AD. Not sure i remember a check valve, but i did install mine 5 years ago.

I dont see any core policy on that one. Not trying to make you do that. I just remember seeing alot of that when I bought mine many years ago. I looked on Blue chips site and dont see it there. Not much about a core other than it has to be returned within 30 days. But i am betting that DAP and Vulcan are not the only ones.

Vulcan is the same way except you get no credit. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Bosch-VP44-p/vp44.htm

The return hose for the AD came with the ends already on them. It was just plug and play quick disconnects. I have heard people have had problems out of them. Mine have been trouble free, though I might be have an issue with them now I just need some decent weather to investigate that. All of my lines came with the ends already on them. The VP and engine return lines just stayed stock and plugged back into the existing return on the basket. Pretty simple actually Actually one end had quick disconnects you just pinch and release and the other end needs a removal tool to disconnect them. Not sure why they were different on each end. Must be an AD thing.

I understand the differences are minor between the HO and the SO. But my point was to order an SO pump for my truck the vendors will not accept my HO pump for a full core. They knock 50% off the core value. Please scroll down to "Core" near the bottom of the page. This is DAP but i have seen it on other sites as well and i seem to remember some that would not accept a different core period. Not sure of that one though. http://dieselautopower.com/bosch-027-vp44-fuel-injection-pump-standard-output-235hp-wire-tap-voids-2-year-warranty-vp44027/

The thing that bugs me is every where I looked you have to return the same pump for a core that you buy. So if I wanted to put an SO on mine i would have to find an SO to return. Always thought that was a little strange.

All of my return goes into the basket using the old pickup for the pump return on the existing return for the engine return. I did not cut the neck.

I like cheap with the best warranty. Wonder why the 27's are getting harder to find? I have noticed that when I have looked at them. I usually look at batteries whenever I am around them just to check pricing and have noticed fewer of them when I do look.