dripley

The thing that bugs me is every where I looked you have to return the same pump for a core that you buy. So if I wanted to put an SO on mine i would have to find an SO to return. Always thought that was a little strange.

All of my return goes into the basket using the old pickup for the pump return on the existing return for the engine return. I did not cut the neck.

I like cheap with the best warranty. Wonder why the 27's are getting harder to find? I have noticed that when I have looked at them. I usually look at batteries whenever I am around them just to check pricing and have noticed fewer of them when I do look.

I kept trying to figure out why you were having problems because My AD was not that difficult. But I see why now. With the AD I just cut the tabs and removed the pump and attached a bracket to hold the the pickup and reused the existing return line. So I only had to drill one hole in the top for the pickup. Not saying mine is any better or worse, they are just different. Of course mine is an AD and I will always have that nagging feeling of pump failure. I lost the original pump about 8 months ago and have no idea how good the new one is.

I was not trying to muddy the water though it seems I accomplished that. With the cost of the pumps and cores, just did not want to see someone get stuck.

If you do get one be sure and check function on them. Mine is a Banks and will not engage at that slow of speed. Mine will not engage until I am going 35 mph but will stay engaged down to 15 mph as long as you dont touch the throttle. Other brands work differently so pay attention. And I also see you have an auto. That will require lock up switch for the tranny or the brake will burn it up.

Same here. That's a tough one.

Whoa!! That aint right. Hope this turns out on the good side for you.

Thinking out loud here. If you have an SO and it is 235 hp what is the 215 hp? HO does not seem right. Something does not make sense.

They are pricey but very much worth it especially if you tow and not just heavy. I use mine all the time. As good an upgrade as adding more power in my opinion.

I found out early on in the winter letting it idle to warm up was almost useless. I crank mine let it idle for 20 30 seconds and take off and take it easy until the the engine warms up to about 140 then drive it normally. After i added the E brake I can idle it and warm it up easier but dont always.

I would have warned you but i did not drop the drive shaft to get mine out. Would it have helped, probably so but it came out with the shaft in place for me. As far as the debris is concerned, I left what little I saw in mine. If it worries you get out what you can. After all you can see what is and I can't.

I was seeing the same thing Katoom did with regards to the throw out bearing when I had to replace mine.with the exception that mine seemed to not have enough grease and what was there was pretty gummed up. Might have been the cause of the failure of the bearing. Hanging up and leaving pressure on it kind of like riding around with your foot on the clutch.

Under hood looks really good. Not sure what the build up is on the cross over tube is though.

I found this on Cummins Hub. It lists 2 hp ratings for 1999. 215, auto and 235, manual. does not call it an HO but there must be some difference. There is more hp and torque difference in 99 than 02. http://cumminshub.com/timeline.html You just want to be sure your core is the same as the one you get. I seem any places that want except and HO for an SO and vica versa for a core.

I too have heard that replacing the bushings on the pedals is fairly easy. But I remember how much fun it is to work under there with 3/4 of me hanging out of the cab. I have just started feeling a little sideways movement in the brake pedal when I depress the clutch. So I figure it is in my future.

It does say petroleum based so maybe there is no big deal with synthetic. Not sure why it would matter unless it bad on the seals.

The Valair I had was very grabby from day one, but I did not get the feel that you described until later in its life, maybe 50k or 60k miles. The throw out bearing went not long after that. The binding sensation stayed with it until I replaced it. I am sitting here with a new slave cylinder and the instructions say to not let any petroleum based fluids come in contact with hydraulic clutch system or brake fluid. Gas, oil, transmission or power steering fluid, etc, Not sure why but maybe you ought not grease the master and slave rods.

i experienced some of that with my Valair. Installed a SB on the same hydros and no issues. i dont think my problem was in the hydros. I think either my throw out bearing was binding or the clutch disc was binding on the input shaft.

Well Mike I might agree with you except I dont sit behind the center console when I am driving. This is how mine looks while sitting behind the wheel. It seems to me to ad about 1.5" to the width of an already wide A pillar. I do have to look around it when driving around town not so much on the highway. While it's bothersome to I have gotten used to it. That is why I like the dash gauge pod. I am still going to have one but thinking of going back to the gauge pod. the few from my seat.

My wife is driving a 98 Saturn sl2 4 door. it has the turning radius of a golf ball.

The turning radius of my long bed 4X4 is better than any long bed 2WD I have ever owned. The short bed might blow my mind. A 5th wheel requires that darn sliding hitch I never wanted. I assume a goose neck does not require anything like that.

so that is what sintered is? My exhaust brake has a little "filter" like that on the vacum line IIRC. Just little pieces of metal mashed together. I am sure that is over simplifacation of the product

Sintered stone. Sounds like some gorilla grabbing clutch. I will have to google that one.

That reminds me of glow shift, my first fp gauge. It crapped out but i think it was from the water hammer and my ignorance.