dripley

IIRC the SB OFE comes with a new flywheel where the Valair does not. My Valair has held up with the Banks chip, RV 275', and a 15K 5th wheel pulling any grade as hard as I want to. Though I probably will try the SB next time since I will most likely need a new fly wheel.

I believe that clutch will come with the bushing you need. As I remember mine did. I also used the stock flywheel and had it resurfaced. Just ask the vendor you are buying from and they should be able to tell you about the bushing. - - - Updated - - - Appreciate the info. I did not realize that when I did mine.

The one I need is the one in the very back. I believe the rear of them all. I will have a look tomorrow in the daylight. IIRC it is for #6.

I need one of the blue hold down blocks. Did you by any chance get them with the lines?

Thats what I have in mine. It is not as smooth as the stock, but a good clutch. Just a little grabby on take off if you dont just let the clutch fairly quick.

I was wondering when you were going to speak up. You are not the standard woman. I mean that in a most complimentary way.

Mine broke while holding the top with my fingers just from its own weight. Very brittle.

I ran a k&n for quite a while before switching to the BHAF. I wiped off some oil at the inlet and that was all. The pipe going into the inter cooler was clean. Been fine for near 3 years now.

It actually drains pretty easy just pulling the bottom bolt on the pto cover and let it drain thru the hole. I run one extra quart in mine. I just park my truck parallel to the drainage swale at the road, passanger side down and fill it thru the filler hole. Not a bad idea with the pto covers though.

Good to hear.

I am pretty sure mine came factory with the bushing and not a bearing. My new clutch came with a bushing IIRC.

Mine stay on when I get in but turn off the instant I turn the key on. If I dont turn the key on they stay on for 30 or 40 seconds I think, never timed it.

When I installed mine I tightened the injectors and then installed the cross over tubes and had more than one leak. I went back and reversed the order. Installed the injectors then then crossover tubes, tightened the fuel lines and then tightened the injectors and all my leaks went away. That said I think I would put on new o ring on and see if that stops it.

I sweated it also, but there is really nothing to it, just drilling a hole. I stuck a rag in the manifold behind the hole, drilled it and pulled the rag out and moved on. That was 7 years ago and no problems since.

My understanding is the voltage regulator is in the PCM and not the ECM.

2.5 years without a heat shield and no problems.

I used the alternator bolt when I did mine.

The CCD network runs thru alot of the truck. I am defenitely the wrong person to offer advice on that. I have never lost a cam sensor in my truck, the wifes Dakota yes. It was intermittent and the truck would run rough, then run fine for while. I have read similar descriptions from others here when theirs went.

I can identify with the cracked dash. I waited for a while before I replaced my evaporator due to mine being in such bad shape. Got the new dash and rebuilt the hvac box. The evaporator is sandwiched between the top and bottom sections and pulls straight up out of the bottom section not to mention the lines go thru the fire wall. You pretty much have to break it open to work on it. Taking it out is not that difficult once you get over the initial scare of it. It did mine by reading Mikes article. Its really as easy as it reads.

The cam positioning sensor comes to mind, it runs the tach. I believe it would be unusual for a code not to be set though.

Thanks for enlightening me on the original problem. Removing the filter bowl would open the fuel system and allow air into the high pressure side.

My first FP gauge was electric and failed in the same manner as Mike mentions. I also did not have the sender protected from the VP pulses. I now have a mechanical protected by a needle valve barely cracked open to protect it from the pulses. Been working fine for near 2 years.

The few times I have had to reprime my high pressure side the fuel flow will start as a dribble as the fuel is moved into the system. Open more than one and see what happens.What was the original issue with no starting that made you think your ECM was bad?

Have you tried cracking the injector lines. if they are full of air they need to be bled also. Crack 1, 3, and 4 and see if you have any fuel coming out.

Dont get me wrong, I think that Mikes mod is a sound idea. It brings the line up which will contain the oil and still let the vapor escape. I just dont want the pipe across the top of the engine. I have thought about the 12v tappet cover but am not sure thats the answer either. Just dont know what I will do. On another note, my truck has no rust issues underneath due to the resemblance my truck has to the Exxon Valdez. Nothing like a leaky tappet cover, vacuum pump, and whatever else is leaking under there. This is all hopefully resolved in the near future. I do like the breather in the cap if it does not vent oil every where. Do you clean it regularly or just for the photo?