dripley

I am curious if you ever got this one fised also. I have got a leak at the rear of the engine myself. It appears to be wet along the bottom of the back third of the tappet cover. I can see it along the bottom edge, but cant see much else without taking some stuff. what di your end up being?

good advice. How are you checking for your codes? A weak lift pump can generate that code also. sounds like your is fair. what kind of lift pump do you have? Have you changed your fuel filter lately. I had similar issues with mine but my pressures were way to low, nowhere in th ballpark of what yours are. I changed my fuel system, got the pressures up and got alot more life out of the vp. so there might still be some hope. Just bear in mind what ever damge if any that has already been done, the best fuel system in the world will not reverse it. I was lucky thats all there is to it.

Absolutely differant. That is just normal spooling. I have never heard the bark when i have let off quickly.

I hear it in mine when it is spooling up. I really started noticing it when I installed my Banks system.

The plate eleiminates tapping the wire on the outside. Mine came from bluechip diesel. It has an allen screw on top at the red wire that screws down and makes contact inside the pump instead of tapping the wire externally. I have heard of warrnty issues on pumps with the wire tapped. Never experianced it though.

I am still piling up dirt. Might just be easier just to come to Idaho and see it for myself. That way I cna be an Idahoian. Something just dont sound right about that though. Idahoian???? I dont know, not much differant than being a North Cacalackion. :lmao2:

Last time I checke DAP had the best price on rv's. Vulcan perfprmance a close second. As far as the cros over tubes, if you cant see or feel and damage on them I cant see why you would need to replace them. The steel they are made of is so freaking har it is rediculous. I chucked one of mine in a drill and spun it to polish the tip(maybe out of ignorance, I dont know)and it did not leave a mark on it. It is in the truck right now. You should definately change out the o rings on them. The biggest mistake I made was tightening the injectors before the injector lines. They all leaked. I had to take it all back loose and tighten the injector LINES first and then the injectors second. this stopped all the leakage I had due to them not being properly aligned. Tightening the injector tubes first aligned them properly. RV's versus 100's is beyond my knowledge though and some one else will have to advise you. They work grat in my truck.

When my fuel pressure dips it alllllllll goooooone!!!!

I have done it 3 times in 10+ years. The last 2 were after someone( dodge and me) was in the tank. Each time it changed how th gauge read. But as mentioned above I reset the trip-o-meter and use that as muvh or more than the gauge. Both times I was pushing it pretty far. SO I am :lmao2:with you also>

I feel better with my cheapo chinese rotors already. They will still be on my mind though.

That is a sure sign of air getting in somewhere. That is my issue also. I want do much about it until I get my truck home in a couple months. Check the return line in back of the head and the tee it goes to, that was a big part of my problem. Then you just have to back track the fuel system until you find it. Since air can get in and not let fuel out. it might not be a lot of fun.

Same as mopar here, still running oe. sorry

I saw the pair there as you stated, but they wanted $15 shipping and there is no mention of the brackets being included. Still agood deal though. I paid $198 to the door with a 2 yr waranty. Hope i never have to test it.44

welcome back.

My upgrade to a Banks 4" came with a new elbow. It allowed the exhaust pipe to be 4" all the way, but still shrank down at the turbo. They called it a power elbow. It is probably similar to the Pac Brake elbow mentioned earlier. Someone else would have to confirm that. I dont know that you can eliminate the elbow. If you open it up at the it probably messes up how the turbo fundtions. Some one else more knowledgeable would have to help with that aspect.I have heard some good things about the intake manifold upgrade. I believe it was Johnfak that just installed on and did a wrie up on it very recently.

I have seen them in the $100 to $150 that do live data. Some of the other guys know more about them than i do. Shop around some and post what you find. I am sure you will get some opinions on what you find.

Godd to hear. Is your wallet still solid?

I went back and re read this thread and did not see where anyone told him he needed both a lift pump and a VP. The intank pump he has was pushing minimal pressure and I have seen and experience bad things with that pump. It was also mentioned that some damage to the VP might have already occured, but no recomendation to buy one. My VP survived that and lasted another 70k after restoring good pressure to the VP. Other folks have had the same result. Like MIke said two smoking guns might confirm it.Vdub, Have you reset your apps since installing the AD? If not, disconnect the battaries for about 30 minutes then reconnect them. Turn the key to the on position(no start) and slowly depress the throttle to the floor and slowly release it. Turn the key off and you are done. Then see if it will go beyond 2500 rpm. While you are out have some one check for codes again. Maybe someone has one that can read live data and see if your apps is sending the proper signal.

From what yall are saying the new MAP sensors have differant connector than the oe. Am I reading this right? If so I would have to have an adapter to use a new one if mine crapped out. If the above is correct, maybe your harness has the right connector if you were using an later date MAP and all you have to do is remove the adapter if yours ever craps out.

good to hear. I remeber how much fun it was when I installed my Banks and then later the RV's. Tha fuel drip youare seeing is probably coming from the return line on the back of the head. You have to reach around the back and feel. It has 2 sealing washers on it that wear out. If you follow that line down it goes into a tee and the o rings wear out in it also. You might be abel to tighten them up for now, but replacing them is best.I am curious about the wiring harness. Did youu have to use the adapters on yout map sensor? The gray ones are what came on my harness.

These gauges are not very accurate when you look at a quarter tank being 8.75 gallons. when mine was new and i would run it down to the fuel light coming on there would be about 8 gallons left and could runthe gauge below the E mark. When dodge installed my intank pump it went down to about 5 gallons when the light came on. Now that I have installed my AD and removed the intank pump, I only have 3 ot 4 gallons and cant run it below the E mark. I pretty sure when I reinstalled the fue l basket it did not get indexed right and I let rotate slightly. This is probably causing the float to hit the side of the tank. They just arent very accurate. I reset my trip meter whenever I fill up and gauge my fuel by that as much as any thing, But I still use the gauge as a guide. I know where mine runs out. Had to learn it 3 times. you will get to know yours with time.

I remeber when I broke the passanger side many years ago, the manual replacements were $275 each. Kinda choked on that and fiixed it the best I could.I went back and looked at the 3rd gen mirrors and dont see any referance to the brakets. All the 2nd gen ads do. Seems maybe you dont need them?

Sorry, I reread the thread and see I missed that you already had remote filtration in mind. I kept my oe canster for the heater and the water in fuel light. Just wanted to be sure you were feeding clean fuel to the VP and the injectors. Sounds like you are on the right track.

Alot of folks use snubbers with succes. I have a mechanical gauge and the needle valve serves a dual purpose. protects the gauge and if I do have a leak in the cab I can shut it off until I can fix the leak. The valve itself is barely cracked open.

what is the sender connected to? It needs a needle valve or something to isolate it from the pulses of the VP. Yes the pump should be running constantly while the truck is running. Do you know what they wired it up to?