dripley

Mike pulled and replaced the head himself. The 2k was for machine work and parts. I only spent $1400 on mine but did not do the studs and and valve guides were fine in my head. I provided all my labor as Mike did.

Jag1, Donkies, Hmmmm!! Should'a retorqued.

New MAP sensor in and all is well again. Decent power with an untapped pump. Probably leave it that way for the year warranty.

I used some of that bars leak in mine when HG started failing. It did help some but left residue which I think is mostly gone after couple flushes but maybe not. It does not seem to have harmed anything in coolant as everything functions normally. I had drive quite a while before repair, about 20k+ miles. Mine was leaking at the right front corner. After researching I found it to a common leak from a water jacket to the outside of the head. There is still a risk it coul have gotten in oil so I kept close eye on oil but I did feel pretty safe. I was trying to get to a point where I could do the repair my self. I spent about $1400 on mine. You can spend alot if you want to. It is not difficult repair if are mechanically incline but the repair will consume some time. As far as where yours is leaking and the chance of coolant getting in the oil i would not know. If it had gotten into mine it would have been a whole can of worms opened up. You would do so at your own risk.

I am home. What a week. The only bad thing after the pump install is my MAP sensor failed. I think it failed when the pump went whacky on Sunday, but did not have a code. Any way drove it home under reduced power and will a new MAP in my hand tomorrow morning.

Think I will bring this back over here instead of spread out over 3 threads. I pretty figure the pump is gone and ordered one from DAP. Asked for over night but something got screwed up and it ground and got here today. DAP is looking into it. Tore it all down Tuesday afternoon except for removing the pump. I got a gear puller from them and it was with the new pump. Got here about 2pm and I pulled the old one. Found a couple things I needed and fetched them. Of course there was one more thing I find need. One more trip to the hardware store. Installed the new only not to have it not seat properly. I can see the key and the key way and they appeared to be lined up but it wont seat to the timing case. I took it back out and sure enough the key had rotated back up on the shaft. Got the key back in the shaft right and she slipped right in this time. Mated right up to the gear as it should. But by then it was 7:30 and all the batteries I have for the spotlight are dead and my back is give out from hanging in the engine bay. I will finish tomorrow. Out with the old and in with the new. I was kicking my self for not ordering new sealing washers for the return line but the pump came with them along with a new return line valve. Should just be the easy stuff tomorrow as long as the fuel ptimes up ok. Sitting a good bit nose up right now and be some extra priming needed. We shall see.

Thats not a p0606 code is it?

The no buss would be over my head.

My original lasted 3 years and 75k miles. Yours has seen 5 years of a FASS system. What did it see for the first 14 years of its life? My latest VP has 270k on it and 8 maybe 9 years of pumping with an AD pump and 2 cycle oil. But it had similar symptoms as yours. No real loss of power until 10 minutes before it died, but I did have the surging and a 216 code. Are you experiencing any hard starting as in longer than normal cranking time. This could just be an ugly coincidence.

I had my scan gauge plugged in on the trip back down . I also hooked it up when I got home Friday. It surged some while in the driveway and the TPS registered no change but the temp never dropped. By the time it dropped on Sunday I was to busy trying not to get run over that I did not get to look at the scan gauge. By the time I got to look the engine was dead and it was to late. The chicken and egg thing is above my pay grade.

Mine would just peg on the low side pretty quick. It would then slowly climb with some wierd surging. Did it several times on Friday. Justba couple of breif times on Sunday morning while on a short drive. Drove fine for about a 150miles Sunday pm on the way back to work. Then started loosing power with no boost very much like when my boost gauge was failing. Then the powermjust started fading until the engine would not run. Got to believe it is the VP with the reoccurrence ofmthe 216 code at the same time. I checked for codes several times while riding down Sunday and nothing until the power loss started and there it was.

If you have a quad you already have a boost fooler and if have an adjustable waste you do not need a boost elbow.

Driving more at my leisuure by then. But I get what you are saying.

Started a thread a couple days ago about some surging. Had a 216 code also. The truck was running fine except for the odd surgingat low RPM. Cleared the code too and things seemed alright. On the way to Georgia last night and the truck died and the code is back. We are very similar in symptoms and codes, just no one worked on mine.

I get a little timing rattle around 1800 rpm in the cooler weather until the engine warms. Always attributed that the Comp.

Dont think so. Its been hard starting the past few days like it was loosing prime. Then it starting on the interstate and popped a 216 code and that was about it. The wrecker bill was only 99 bucks. Not bad for a Sunday night.

No need to apolagize, we know how to buthcher the language ourselves sometimes. Welocome from across thd pond.

I concur.

I dare say after 18 years it just got tired or rotted. The upper one that connects to the head split across the hose just below the 90. Not sure how long mine was leaking but I blew 3 gallons of coolant out. How long did you run with no hoses on? Seems to me that the heater hoses ought to have the same pressure on them as the rest of the coolant system.

Had some weird things going on coming back from Atlanta last night. Stuck in slooow traffic thru down town the engine jumped in idle to a bit over 1000 rpm. It also started surging about 250 more rpm up down in an even pattern for about 10 seconds. Did it it again 3 or 4 times getting thru town. The temp gauge dropped out also. Matter of fact it would only do it while the temp was out. Not sure how they are related. This happened a few more times on the rest of the trip except very little surging but had the elevated idle. It also only did this at very low speed or idle. Sitting at my sons work waiting on him so I can have a warm dry place to check it out. So I pulled out the old SG II, plug it up. Had a 234 which I believe was an old code I had not cleared out from a good while back. But then I read the other one, 216. Damn. After 270k maybe she is giving up the ghost. Its just the temp dropping out when does it does seems weird to me. I cleared both codes and they have not come back. It actually did it for a brief couple seconds while sitting here. That's when I broke out the SG.

The 230 code is for your lift pump circuit and not the VP. Siure you read it right?

I remeber you talking of that in the past. There have been a few others that have gotten away with it too IIRC.

DAP is Diesel auto power. A good vendor here. @JAG1 got ahead of me bit, but I was going to suggest some 2 cycle oil also. A couple quarts in a full tank, it might help lube the timing piston buy you some time. The damage is pretty done though. Definitely check that fuel pressure. If you are running a stock lift pump it could be toast also. Bad pressure from it will kill the VP/injection pump. The 216 code is your biggest issue. The 234 overboost code is negligible. Once you exceed 20 psi or so fo boost the engine just defuels some to try and keep the boost. I drove mine like that for 3 or 4 years. It is a nuisance for sure but easier to live with than a completely failed VP. That you cant drive with.

I feel your coldness.

You might try loosening the nuts on the head at 1, 3, and 4. Prime the system then until you get a good flow of fuel to them and tighten them as they do, then keep cranking. It will run rough until all the air is cleared from the lines. Sounds like you are close to it starting. I should add if your old injectors have a lot time on them they could be in a fairly worn state. Went thru this not long back with flattened orings. Swapped some older ones that were not flat onto the newer injectors and it worked fine until I could some new ones.