dripley

I get it. My fuel pressure is on the A pillar still. Going to move it one day. There other options and I like this better.

To the OP. Your subject mentions a 118 code. I dont see that code in data base here. Can you enlighten us to what the problem is? And to @JAG1. I did not know pertinent and wood pecker went together.

Put a boost gauge on it. My scan gauge ll reads about 26 psi at idle.

I cant help either, but @Dieselfuture hit the nail on the head about your twin. Maybe he can help.

I dont know about the pro series. This the box it came in. Part #MS 95087. This one had a wide spot on it that goes under where the fuel pump mounts, just like the one in the parts look up tool. The one in Cummins set did not. Since this set did not have the wide spot and the seals were the top hat variety, it makes me believe my gasket was for a 3rd gen and not a 2nd. The intake failed on the opposite side as the flat spot howevere. Not sure what the wide spot is there for. There is no wider spot on the head.

Hope she keeps on going.

None was used. I used nothing but the gasket provided in the Cummins gasket set. It appeared to seperate.

It was pretty leaky.

@Mopar1973Man is using them. Had a thread here somewhere with bulb #'s.

New they should be good in the 3300 to 3600. I say that because I dont think Dodge put wheels on that would be rated for less the the rear of the truck. I have 2 sets of the original wheels. 5 or 6 out of 8 of them have cracked. Finally had to take them off. I always liked the look of them.

Mine blowing the soapy water up the head and over the fuel line. Maybe yours is just a loose bolt? Sure was hoping that was all mine was. Good luck.

Is it working properly?

Is everything working fine? if so I would say you are alright. How did you pin #3?

Well my electrically challenge arse has to ask, Why would grounding the idle validation switch 2 make it work? I kept thinking maybe something was bad in the ground splice in the harness but those wires are blk/lt blu for the sensor grounds.

How do you like those head light housings and what kind of bulb are you running? I have looked a some like that without the reflector on the bottom and thought maybe they would handle LED bulbs better without reflecting the light up into oncoming traffic.

I would have to agree with both of my esteemed colleagues. Pretty truck. You can spend alot of money throwing components at it hoping to fix it when it could just be a wire shorted or damaged. Or for that matter just a bad connection or connections.

It was a good one, but his time will come. I am patient. the part number on my dip stick is 39737748, dip stick with oring. Googled that and anything but a dip stick shows up. The part # look up tool lists it as 05080582AA. Google that and many dip stick offerings comes up. Not sure what the number on the stick is. I find it handy for flinging them to the pecker woods in the trees too.

But thats a drip stick.

I have to agree with @Tractorman. The nose up/down thing is a red flag. It does not take much of a opening while pinching those lines to let air thru. I also curious what check valve you replaced on the back of the head. Mine has none, just the banjo blot connection. The head and return tee grommets were my problem many years back with those symptoms. About I year ago the same issue came up and I started growing oil about the same time. I changed out the injector o rings for the later and found a couple damaged connector tube o rings damaged and changed all of them also. No more growing oil or hard starts. My return lines were fine this last time.

11 quarts on my 02. Dont forget yourself @Leaky88, you told me your manual said 10.

That is the bleed off hole. IIRC you back the screw off and more pressure bleeds off to delay the waste gate opening. At least thats what the one that came with my Comp did.

Thats not much at all for sure. Not enough to take it out of idle. Back when I had surging issues it was more than enough to kick my exhaust brake off.

Have you checked for trouble codes?

I believe you are right. But if the apps is going up as you stated that in it self could be enough to not let it come on. I did not notice do anything strange like that in your video. Was your truck warmed up in the video but the gauge not reading right?

It could be wiring and not a sensor. I just spent quite a long time fighting electrical gremlins. I hate them probably more than you do. I only had one sensor that failed and my gremlins were mainly tied to the 5v supply to the sensors. The sensor grounds can do the same thing. How is you electrical system, as in the alternator, batteries, cables and connections? Weakness in these parts can cause trouble tool. I most recently fought a loss of power issue that was like the limp mode you described earlier. I did get a 237 map sensor code sometimes when it acted up but not every time. That did turn out to be the sensor. I was also able to see the signal come and go with mine Scan Gauge. I might hurt to check your oil pressure harness and see which you have. I have read about bad OP sensors, 3 wire, causing other sensor issues. Long shot but not hard to do.