kzimmer

Just for fun I wanted to check this after work. I'm at 119% in the 30+psi fuel level, and I reached 4076 out of 4095 (99.536%) fuel command. Close enough to full fuel. 120% should do it.

I like the idea of re-gearing from 3.54 to 4.10. If someone could make a step by step article together for the D60 and D70 I'll get started. Anybody? I rebuilt my own trans with no issues, but I'm afraid of diffs.

I disagree. Stock Turbo and almost any injector, even 250's could run cool if tuned right with the Quad. It would be somewhat pointless, but could be safe if one tunes it safe and is waiting for a bigger turbo or compounds.

Lmao

Makes sense to me. I haven't done either of those parts on a 2nd gen Dodge so I'm not sure how involved it is. Shouldn't be too bad.

I would verify the part number, but absolutely. If you aren't doing the blower motor as well, I'd at least recommend using a clamp on ammeter to check the draw of the current draw. However I don't know what the desired specs of the motor are to compare.

Blower motor resistor(s) need replacement. Also, if the blower motor is drawing enough current to cook the resistors, you likely need a new blower motor as well, or you'll be replacing resistors again.

Have you attempted to plug it into a PC to see if the computer can recognize it? I'd be curious if it has any life left in it and if it would take an update. Sending it in for testing is absolutely a good way to go like already mentioned above. You might be able to save yourself some headache.

Good information above, but an important piece missing. If the number wasn't accurate, yes, your tire size and gearing settings may need adjustment. However, where are you viewing this number, and are you moving at the time? If you aren't moving, transmission slip will always show 100%, because the engine crank shaft is turning, and the transmission output is not. 100% slippage until you start rolling. Similarly, if you look in the data log screen of the iQuad app, you will see %100 slip reported as the max slip every time, assuming you were stopped the last time you cleared the logs. Does that make sense? To add, As far as I understand, the iQuad tire size settings are only useful/accurate if your truck's cluster speedometer is NOT accurate. For example, if you have oversized tires, and you had a tech with a Chrysler tool correct your tire size to make your speedo accurate, then you need to leave iQuad at the default tire size, or it'll throw the iQuad speedo out of whack. And I assume trans slip.

Let me know if you decide to go this route. I'll tell you about mine. I definitely don't regret it, being able to pop your own injectors is awesome. I think it might be partially due to shim quality. The shims need to be a very hard steel. I've recorded some data while shimming my own, and found that .05mm difference in shim thickness can translate to around 20 bar when in the mid 300 bar range. I'm guessing some can be attributed to spring fatigue and nozzle wear as well.

I got maybe 20K out of my DAP nozzles. Got 3 replaced under warranty and had them assemble them on a new second set of bodies... And they came set to 315-320 bar instead of the 335 that I requested. And my truck already isn't idling right or running quite right with low rpm low load after less than 5k kms. I'm guessing the other 3 that didn't get replaced under warranty are dinked. Time for me to try somebody else if/when I rebuild my other set of bodies. Frustrating. Sometimes budget parts work out, other times not. On the flip side, if you want to do some R&D, experimenting, tweaking, etc, budget parts are an important part of the process if you want to have fun and learn something without going broke.

You can't tell by looking at them on the outside what the condition of the internals are like. For example, what pressure they are popping off at, is the needle and seat leaking between pops, etc. OEM's do seem to be better quality than the budget injector nozzles floating around however, and it can be seen with how long they last. Sounds like O-rings were all you needed though.

That's one of my pet peeves with new trucks. My new GM half ton has a 90 liter tank. I don't like stopping for fuel when the only reason is my tank is empty. It's sure nice to spend more time on the road and less time at the pumps, especially when towing the camper around on summer road trips.

That's a fair assessment. The trouble is, people like me bought the Quadzilla because our trucks are heavily modified and need customization. Which we have for the most part. In my pea sized brain, it's as simple as adding a setting with an option to either use Factory timing during warmup, or the custom timing parameters that have already been entered. I do also understand that this is easier said than done, and Quad has really struggled with app development updates in a timely manner. Personally, I don't see any need for any properly tuned truck to ever use factory timing. However, I think my particular VP44 happens to run very far on the advanced side, plus not a lot of people only drive their truck 4km to work on -35°C days. So I might be an island. Regardless, as a consumer and a tinkerer, more ability of optional customization is always appreciated, and I would gladly pay for new updates and improvements. In a nutshell, when I think about problems like this, in my eyes, when there are two possible paths, it's a good idea to offer a choice when possible. But, again, I might be an island, lol.

Agreed, I do this all the time on the highway. Right. But it's the complete opposite. My truck rattles like a bastard with factory timing during warmup mode. Way too advanced. It doesn't feel right driving it like that on a really cold morning. Most people don't understand what cold really means. When it's cold here, it's frigid.

Yeah I could turn it down, but I like it set at 150°F especially on really cold days. When it's -35°C outside, a 120°F warmup doesn't cut it. I like it to continue to high idle, and when I drive I like that it limits canbus fuel to my 0 psi setting until my temperature has been reached. I don't understand why it needs to run factory timing during the warmup.

@Steve31 I'll echo everyone else and say that studs are a no brainer if you are starting to push things a little hard. As far as the head gasket goes, it's my understanding that a high amount of timing advance at low RPM while building boost is the most dangerous for your head gasket. Keep that in mind while building your tunes. It makes sense when you think about it, in stock form I don't think these trucks make much boost in the low RPM range. This is also why people blow head gaskets during cold weather with a cold motor; the computer cranks up the timing advance to compensate for the cold weather and help warm the motor up faster. Drive it hard in this condition and you're playing with fire. One of my peaves with the Quadzilla right now is that it runs factory timing in warm up mode. With my truck, factory timing is WAY too advanced in this condition. I'd like Quadzilla to allow me to run my custom timing settings during warmup, but I haven't asked for this feature change yet.

That is absolutely brutal. No suprise he went out of business. Dirt bags like that are why I'm afraid to hire anyone for any services.

Yeah, even here up north National park campgrounds are extremely dated and mostly not suitable for anything over 25 ft. I've gotten myself into some tight situations and I'm only around 27.5 at the most from ball to bumper (bumper pull).

That's really strange though. What level are you running on? Even without wiretap I think you should be able to boost higher than that but I'm not sure, I've never run injectors that small.

@Rather Be Wheeling can you post the specs/mods your truck has? What injectors, what turbo, auto or manual, year, etc. Also if you can, it's helpful to put this information in your signature so you don't have to keep typing it. Here's what I'm seeing in your datalog. You rarely went over 40-50% throttle, but I did find a section where you went to 100% throttle, but only for 4 seconds. I see you got to 26psi, full fuel command and no back down. Your EGT probe isn't hooked up so we can't see what's going on there to rule out a crazy excessive boost leak, which would be evident by really high temps. Fuel pressure sensor isn't hooked up, so we can't tell if the VP is being starved of fuel. If you are on level 3, you could try throwing in some wiretap (level 4 and above) and see how it likes it. Your RPM jumps to 3k pretty quick when you stabbed the throttle, so I'm assuming you have an automatic trans and the converter unlocked, and didn't have a chance to lock up before you let off the throttle. These trucks need some load to get the boost up. You will be able to see a difference in WOT boost unlocked vs locked. Is your converter lockup slipping? Need more info for an accurate assessment.

I haven't used it as an undercoating yet, but I plan to. The mileage on the 6.2 and 10 speed is unreal. Better than the Cummins, with or without my camper. I'll have to get back to you with numbers, not sure what I have recorded.

I can vouch for MonstaLiner. My truck is covered in it. No matter what product you use, it's only as good as the surface prep underneath the product.

I got Mike Rowe mixed up with Mike Holmes. I had a pretty good one liner ready for that tool until I realized it was the wrong guy, lol.

Posted by mistake.