LiveOak

Going much beyond 30 psi boost without head studs or improved head bolts risks blowing a head gasket. Many folks do it and get away with it but eventually you WILL pay the piper. I agree that in most applications for normal use that 30-35 psi is plenty in addition to limiting the life of the of stock turbo.

I am amazed that this surprises so many. I am sensing an awakening of sorts. It is not just about greed. It IS about CONTROL & MONOPOLY on POWER. Here are a few links that will help you to understand better: http://westernrifleshooters.wordpress.com/ http://www.lewrockwell.com/blog/ http://www.lewrockwell.com/ http://freedominourtime.blogspot.com/ Please DON'T be fooled into thinking that voting Democrat (read Marxist) or Republican (read neocon progressive Marxist) will change ANYTHING. This is EXACTLY what brought things to where they are now.

Maybe this has already been covered and I missed it but haveyou checked for chaffed or broken wires in the steering column? This sure does seem like an electricalproblem. Can you go from park to reverse?

Good point!

I heard that about an extra set of hands! My daughter and I got the driveshaft assembly out OK but it didn't want to come out peacefully. I removed the center bearing first by removing the entire frame mount it is bolted to. That part came out fine. The rear universal joint was rusted in place to the differential yoke. No amount of prying would break it loose so I had to resort to a 5 lb. hammer and a wide punch to gently tap on it until it came free. That was after I soaked it good with PB Blaster penetrating oil. The other universal joints looked to be in pretty good shape for 160,000 miles but I am still going to replace everything in the driveshaft assembly including the center bearing with Spicer 5-801x universal joints and a spicer center bearing. I decided to go with the 5-801x universal joints because they are solid forged steel but have no grease fittings. If they last 160,000 miles.......God Bless'em. The 5-601x are the greaseable joints which is what the guy at the driveshaft shop sells a lot of. I asked him what he would put in this driveshaft if it were his and he immediately said the 5-801x joints because they are MUCH stronger and will very likely last for the life of the truck.

Removal the center/hangar bearing first? I have printed out the Dodge shop manual pages covering the task of removing the driveshaft assembly and it says to remove the center bearing first. This seems to make for a loose hand full for a single person holding things together during the removal. I take it this is a 2 man job? Seems like it to me but it will be a Dad and daughter job.

Link is broke again. Can you fix it?

MANY thanks! That was a FANTASTIC write-up! Exactly the type of information I was looking for.

You guys must have read my mind. I have had some reservations and thoughts about taking the driveshaft assembly to a shop but was not sure if it was really required or such a big deal. I have done my share of universal joints in my day but never an entire drive shaft assembly such as this. I found a shop that I think does this type of work and will give them a call tomorrow.

While performing regular maintenance on my wife’s truck Ifound that one of the universal joints was shot. It was making some horrible screeching metalto metal noises on the test drive whenever I applied any throttle. Her truck is a 2001.5 long bed that has the 2 piece driveshaft. Since the universal joints and components onthe driveshaft appear to be the original OEM components, I want to replace ALLof the universal joints AND the center bearing. I want to replace the universal joints withSpicer Heavy Duty/High Performance universal joints and a Timken centerbearing. Has anyone done this task recently and if so, I sure wouldappreciate any comments, suggestions, and tips before I buy the parts and getstarted with the job. Pictures wouldREALLY be great! TIA.

I bought one for each truck and am thinking about installing them. Before I did, I wanted to get some feedback from those who have been using them as well as intel. on the installation to help me avoid pit falls as well as things to look for. Thanks!

Looks like you may have a rear main seal gone. If it is leaking bad enough, you may have also discovered why your clutch is slipping.

This guy says it better than I can. 25 psi was WAY too much pressure and could have damaged the diaphram. I hope this is NOT the case and and NOT the barer of bad news.

Yes, still using the 7317. They last about 4,000 miles and then you can notice the oil gradually turning black. This time around, I just changed the filter and made lost oil from the filter change and will go another 4,000 miles and see how that works. On my wife's truck these filters keep the oil clean for a long time as compared to the OEM style filters. Her truck is stock and my truck dirties the oil a bit sooner.

It has been awhile since I looked at the specs. on the BD7317 but if I recall correctly, I believe the BD7317 is a dual flow oil filter in which a percentage of the lube oil is filtered through the secondary "bypas" media which filters the oil to 5 micron. Without getting into graphs and charts, the majority of the oil is filtered through the main media which filters at 20 micron. As the filter continues to filter a percentage of the lube oil at 5 micron, after a number of passes through the filter, the lube oil will be substantially cleaner than what a typical full flow oil filter can clean the oil to. Stated differently the filter has a 20 micron absolute filter rating with 50% of the oil being filtered through the 5 micron media. Not as good as a dedicate bypass filtration system but pretty damn good for a spin on oil filter and FAR better than a standard full flow oil filter.

You might try talking to these guys. http://www.xtremediesel.com/tsperformanceagri-powerseriespowermodule.aspx

What year, make, and model tractor are you wanting to turn up?

Been using them for several years. Never had one fall off yet.

I keep 10 of those magnets on the lower part of my oil filters on both trucks. Nest best think to a magnetic oil pan drain plug. These are the magnets I got on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Magcraft-NSN0573-8-Inch-Magnets-30-Count/dp/B000SJ61EC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1328126343&sr=8-1

Mike, I just spent the better part of an hour doing my best to craft a well considered reply to the above questions. As has been the case EACH and EVERYTIME I come here and post, the forum software locks up and the page has to be recovered thus dumping what I spent a LOT of time writing into oblivion. Even the first attempt to post this short reply resulted in the same thing. :banghead: :banghead::banghead: This happens whenever I try to select one of the smilies. I post on a variety of website forums and this is the ONLY website that I have this repeated problem on.

I for one am FED UP to the eye balls with new laws and the misguided people who beg for them. I am beginning to realize that the vast majority of American's DO NOT want freedom but merely a just master. This cell phone argument is without logic and is the very same tired out and illogical arguments that anti-drunk driving extremists pushed. Now we have body armor wearing, machinegun totting, state sponsored terrorists who stop us unlawfully, unconstitutional, and immorally at "drunk driving check points". Was throwing away your natural born rights and constitutional liberties worth getting the drunks off the road??? News flash for ya.....the drunks are STILL on the road. This applies to everything from the USA PATRIOT Act on down to the stupid laws that create criminal empowerment zones that ban guns from schools and colleges. Are you any safer??? Has one of these laws stopped a terrorist or gunman???? These laws create terrorists and make decent American citizens criminals. I will talk on my cell phone when, where, and if I need to which is nearly never. Same reason, I wear my seatbelt........because it IS the smart thing to do and NOT because some state sponsored terrorist road revenue collector or law tells me to. No big brother law is going to stop me from talking on my cell phone while driving, I rarely do it because I realize it is distracting NOT because some tyrant in government tells me! Those who cause accidents or drive recklessly should be held to FULL account for their actions......NOT the rest of America. Our system of government is broke beyond repair. No amount of laws will fix it. No amount of taxation will pay for its repair. It has become an IMMORAL, UNJUST, and TYRANICAL system. If people spent as much time and effort on voluntarily governing THEMSELVES as they do working to get new laws, ordinances, and rules to control everyone else......America would be a MUCH better place. EVERYTIME a new law, ordinance, or rule is put into effect another law ALWAYS takes its course and usually if not ALWAYS for the worst. The law of unintended consequences. End of rant.

Try your diesel musical talents out. http://cumminsengines.com/every/customer/2011_greeting_main.page

In addition to the Winter fronts and resistors you might try a thermal blanket kit on the engine and to insulate the hood. This would hold is a LOT more heat that would normally be lost that the engine has to work make up for and compensate. They are not cheap but neither is diesel fuel. If it helps save on fuel, it may be worth it. http://www.atpwrap.com/html/dodgeram.html

I think the oil may be better off in the crank case than in the fuel. Is this oil rated for compression ignition engines?

Have you contacted a Cummins dealer to ask them if Cummins with split the cost with you? They may work with you on this and the price may be a bit less than you are not looking at but it will be done by a Cummins dealer mechanic and shop........for what that's worth. An entire new short block will cost you in the $12,000 range.