LiveOak

Unless you have LOTS of time and MONEY on your hands, I would suggest not trying what the folks in the first video imply.......OH I agree with you about the BS, immorality, unlawfulness, and unconstitutionality of the federal income tax, but when you boil this issue of "law" down to its bare and essential essence........the law IS a monopoly on violent, brute, unlimited, and bloody FORCE. That IS all the law is. Unless and until you are prepared to successfully deal with and defeat that monopoly on force, best to let another joust at these windmills and remain below the radar. Natural law is an altogether different thing and subject for another topic.

I think I would stick with the Cummins OEM head gasket. I would also strongly recommend a set of ARP head studs while you are at it too.

Sounds like you have good fuel pressure. Try reading this link especially under long crank times. Perhaps it may be of help. http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/vp44_diagnostics.html

Can you provide more background on the engine and fuel system of your truck? It would be very helpful in providing a more practical and accurate reply to your question. In the mean time you might try cleaning or replacing the IAT sensor. http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/sensors/IAT/clean.htm Mike also has that topic very well covered too! http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/59-intake-air-temperature-sensor-iat-sensor

Guess I am a little late to this party but happy 42nd Mike and many happy returns. 42 is just getting warmed up. Hope you had a good day on your B-day.

Each time I replace the batteries and periodically in between, I mix up a big plastic bowl or carton of hot water and as much baking soda as the solution will absorb and then a few more table spoons full to make a slurry on the bottom of the container. I mix it up really good and submerge both battery terminals in the baking soda solution until it stop fizzing. This allows the solution to migrate up the wires and neutralize any potential corrosion/acid. I also apply the solution to the battery tray bolts, battery hold down bolts and anything else that shows any signs or indications of exposure to battery acid vapors. When you apply the solution to anything with battery acid/corrosion on it you will notice the fizzing reaction as the baking soda neutralizes the acid. Once all the acid/corrosion is treated, I clean up all the connectors on each battery cable clamp, the batteries, spray So Sure Corrosion Prevention Compound http://www.drillspot.com/products/308864/Nib_8030-00-938-1947_Corrosion_Preventive_Compound_Aerosol_Spray LIBERALLY over ALL the battery tray and hold down hardware. You can use on the battery terminals too but I perfer to spray a battery terminal corrosion pretection spray which is similar but tinted purple and with added chemicals to neutralize acid as well as corrosion like CRC Battery Terminal Protector http://www.drillspot.com/products/343552/crc_industries_inc_03175_battery_terminal_protector or similar compound. It is a good idea to go over, disconnect, clean, treat, and reinstall any ground wires or straps as well. Hope this helps your problem. I recently did this with my truck when I changed the OEM original batteries about a month ago. The truck had become sluggish and smoked like a freight train but after changing the batteries and cleaning all the connectors up, the engine got its old pep and performance back and the smoking was almost eliminated. Not saying this will work in your case but it surely could not hurt, and may help improve or fix the problem.

Now that is a REALLY cool and outside the box method of changing the heater core.

I have a very similar if not identical set up. Mine does the same thing. In my case, the first time it happened, I put a gauge on the injector pumpt to verify I was getting the correct pressure (around 18 psi). It was, so I just allow a few minutes after start up and check to ensure I have the correct pressure. The problem is the isolator "membrane" or divider becomes stiff with age. I contacted Eric at Vulcan Performance and he sent me a rebuild kit with a new "membrane" and seals, etc. to build the isolator. I just keep a spare and when the one I have stops working altogether, I will replace it. I don't want to run the risk of getting diesel fuel inside the cab, even if it is just small amount. You will NEVER get that smell out, not to mention that fuel in the vicinity of unshielded electrical components is never a safe bet. Going the other way with fuel direct to the gauge if done properly will probably never cause any problems but if there ever is, the potential for a really big problem could exist. I agree that the fuel pressure gauging systems we have are not the optimum but about the best out there in my opinion.

You should be able to check your own codes using the 3 keying trick. Trucks that are 2000 through 2002 have this feature although some 2000 models don't always work.

This sounds like it will be a bit tricky to diagnose. I think I would try immediately checking for codes the instant the engine acts up even if it means pulling off to the side of the road on the way to work. Another thing that comes to mind and is very unlikely, what condition are the truck's batteries in?I recently replaced my OEM original batteries after almost 11 years. They would still start the truck and worked OK but the voltage disparity between each battery or cells within each battery must have been causing problems as my truck was smoking like hell and just seemed really sluggish compared to what I remembered in the past. As soon as I replaced the batteries, the smoking immediately stopped and the engine performance was back to its old self. This may not be the case for you but if your batteries are old or gone bad, they may still start the engine and performe enough to get by but I would think a sudden surge or drop in voltage or an intermittent short could wreak havoc with the truck's systems. Might be worth a look.

Have you checked to see if you have latched any codes?

Ditto! I have the electric sharpener but it is more hassle to set up unless I have a lot of chains to sharpen and it is of no use in the field.

I agree with Mike. I think in this case, you might be better off to replace them. Look for a deal on a set of new RV 275 injectors if you can. If you the truck was going to stay local, I would just keep running what you have.

Welcome to the forum. Depending upon how badly your wire harness is cut up, you may want to replace some or all of it depending upon on how bad a shape its in.

I can't say enough good things about Stihl chainsaws. I have a O-66 with a 20 inch bar that I have used every year considerably cutting firewood since 1993. I still have it and it runs like new. My Homelite Super Two seized up 2 years ago. I have had it about the same amount of time, maybe a few years more. I replaced the Homelite Super Two with a Stihl MS 192T several years ago for a limbing saw. For what you are wanting to do, I would highly recommend a Stihl MS290 Farm Boss. Probably the most versital and best bang for the buck chainsaw Stihl makes. http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/farm-and-ranch-saws/ms290/ You can find them used on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stihl-FARMBOSS-MS-290-Powerful-Mid-Range-Chainsaw-Great-condition-with-Case-/261111990419?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item3ccb7cc893 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stihl-MS290-18-Farm-Boss-Chainsaw-in-Case-MS-290-/350618793420?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item51a28235cc or find your local Stihl dealer. Unless I could get a smokin' hot deal on a used Stihl saw in good shape, I would get a new one as you never know how people treat their equipment. I don't think you will every go wrong with a Stihl. If you take decent care of it....it will outlast you. At around $379, hopefully this is more in your price range. If not, the Stihl MS250 is around $300. I personally prefer the Stihl professional series saws as they are MUCH more heavy duty and rebuildable. Once you experience the difference in cutting power of a 3/8" chisel head chain compared to the typical chains that come on small homeowner saws, you will be shocked. These professional series chains last a LOT longer as well. I think I have used maybe 4 chains in the 19 years I have had my O-66. These chains are very easy to sharpen on the job and keep on cuttin'.

I was thinking about the bead packs that get installed inside the tire but I would be just as interested in the others. I just want to run a balance that works the best.

I am really getting tired of the lead tire weights that fall off and require periodic rebalancing. I have been considering using tire balance beads but have no experience with them. Is anyone here using them??? If so, what is your opinion and experience with them been? Thanks in advance for the replies.

I am currently running BF Goodrich All Terrain T/A KO tires in size 295/75R-16. They have been great tires but they are getting a bit thin on tread. I will have to replace them in a few months. I am considering moving up to 315/75R-16's but Walmart is not carrying them and they are EXPENSIVE this time around. I have been looking at and reading up on review for the Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac, the Kelly TSR Safari, and Hankook Dyna Pro MT. For the folks who are running 315/75R-16's on stock rims, what tire are you running and what has your experience been with them. I realize the 315/75R-16 will rub the lower track bar arm and possibly the fender liner if turned sharp enough, the 295's I am running now do the same thing. I am off road quite a bit, and I want as tall a tire the is decent in mud as I can run without getting into a lift kit or leveling kit. Thanks in advance for your reviews and comments.

Times have changed and changed for the worst. Anymore, the best policy is OPSEC (operational security). Keep your stuff locked or closed up. DO NOT let ANYONE (this particularly includes law enforcement) except for the most trusted and close people to you see or know what you have. Even then it is better to work on a need to know basis. The sooner folks realize that the cops are lazy and corrupt, the courts are TOTALLY BROKE, and the law maker could care less about you or anything but what lines their pockets, the better off and more in tune with reality you will be. Employ every measure you can to protect your family and property. Dogs that are territorial area GREAT first step. Post camera's, ensure doors and windows are locked (although this will mearly cause a small delay, it will make noise and call attention) DO NOT leave the keys in vehicles, ATV's, or lawn mowers, etc. AGGRESSIVELY confront any treaspassers or suspicious people in your AO. Even then, these bastards will try to rip you off. As I said, times have changed, the Republic is GONE, what in past times was a hanging offense will now bring probation. For many years, too many rats have been in the cage. The cage continues to fill and the rats will behave MUCH worse. Just be mindful of it and prepare yourself.

Scumbags! IF I were the owner of this vehicle, I would demand the dealership take the care back and issue me a NEW vehicle just like it with ZERO miles or as close as possible to it on the vehicle. I think I would also be discussing the issue with the district attorney to prosecute charges of vandalism, and any other charges that could be made to stick. Add to that a FREE top of the line loaner vehicle until my new vehicle is delivered. In this society and culture......DO NOT hold your breath waiting for ANY of this to happen as most district attornies ARE even bigger scumbags. The courts are flat out BROKE. If the guy is lucky, maybe he can get John Stossel or one of the other network shows to do a story on it.

Perhaps I may be splitting perverbial hairs but I see things a bit differently as did those who founded this once great and now extinct nation. I don't believe in "second amendment rights". The 2nd amendment to the Bill of Rights of now defunct United States Constitution was a document that gave NO RIGHTS to its citizens. It was a document to CLEARLY forbid the "government" from engaging in abuses of our Natural Born Rights (those very same right outlined in the Declaration of Independence) and CLEARLY stated what the government CANNOT DO. The only amendment the former United States government did NOT abuse and violate was the 3rd amendment. The Bill of Rights does NOT apply nor was it intended to apply to the individual citizen. It was put in place as a marker stone beyond which the government could NOT exceed or abuse.........IT FAILED. With respect to supposed "right to own" arms........this IS a Natural Born Right that we are "endowed with by our creator" as he has created us in his image. The authors of the DOI understood this and KNEW that we WERE to hold these truths to be self-evident, that all men are created equal, that they are endowed by their Creator with certain unalienable Rights, that among these are Life, Liberty and the pursuit of Happiness. We ALL have the right to life and as such the right to protect our lives. We are born with this right. NO man or government can lawfully or morally take that away for ANY reason. (this would include the governmental propaganda euphamism called a FELONY as well) I think we agree on this but differ in just how we arrive at that understanding. With respect to the OP's original supposition or question........yes, in a word things have slid down hill alright.........we are beyond the sliding and at the bottom of the hill but sadly so few realize it and REFUSE to see. They DO NOT want freedom......."they" want a just master.

I am running a 5 inch turbo back pipe and have had no problems for several years. Yes the turbo spins down at shut down but not for much more than a few seconds. I always idle the engine until the EGT is below 300 before shutting the engine down. The turbo will be a LOT happier that way.

I parked my truck on the steepest nose down incline I dared and drained the coolant. Then I flushed the system with the hose until it ran clear. Back over to the steep incline and drained as much water as I could. I later parked the truck on a level surface and filled it with Shell Extended Life Coolant (ELC). It is good for 600,000 miles or 6 years I believe. In the future, I will probably do like Mike and some others and just continually change out a gallon or two at each oil change just to keep the coolant fresh and the additive package up to snuff.

I just spent about a half hour trying to craft a reply. The software on this website is still locking up windows. When windows attempts to recover the page, ALL of the information is lost. Maybe I will come back later and reply. Don't have the time now.

Hey Flman! Where in the hell have you been? Haven't seen hide or hair of you in ages?