LiveOak

Heck! I don't know! I don't hang out around the rubber machines at truck stops.

I thought so too. The folks on the Honda forums thought so as well. So far it has been a great little car/SUV that is very practical. Not too bad on gas consumption either.

I would suggest re-checking the torque or tighten just a bit more on the injector tubes where they go into the head. You may be leaking in air there. You may also be leaking fuel into your engine oil so I advise checking that too.

With a trailer, I can see where reverse eBrake would be helpful. I use mine to speed up warm up on cold mornings or to keep the EGT up if have to idle for very long.

I came across this the day I spent 6 hours driving to look at a Honda Element from these azz hats: http://importautoconnection.com/ Who seriously misrepresented to me the condition of this piece of JUNK! http://importautoconnection.com/vehicledetails.php?vid=12236 Looks pretty from a distance. They told me right up front that it was a salvage title vehicle that they repaired that was not perfect but drove like and was good as new. Yeah.......right! This vehicle did NOT have one fender that lined up even close. The cabin roof was bent out of square to the point that the window glass would not lay flush on the window seals. The passenger rear window glass had almost a 3/4 in gap between the glass an seal! Needless to say, I left that place MIGHTY pissed off! On the way home, while I was on a good rant, I said that I would rather have a salvage vehicle that was hail damaged..............my wife tells me God was listening to my rant. I think he was but I hope he didn't listen to the entire rant.......there was some pretty "salty" language being vented. Anyhow, when I get home, I decided to give eBay one last look before going to bed. Low and behold I came across this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/?cmd=ViewItem&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649&item=220885581173&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT So, I made an offer and called the guy first thing in the morning. We made a deal and he gave me $400 off the asking price. David did a SUPER job and even helped me get the extra key fob, owner's manual, vallet key, and key code tag from the previous owner who traded it in. It has a few dents and crinkles but this is vehicle and color I tried like hell to get almost 3 years ago but you could not find them for want of love or money. Anyhow, the interior and drive train is like a new car. It came with what look to be new Hankook H727 tires. The wife and I like it so well, we will probably keep it and let my daughter drive the 2009 Honda Element SC we already have since it has the automatic. On edit: I didn't see the "Reader's Rides" section. Mike can you or one of the other mods move this there? Thanks!

Yeah, Tennessee has more work to do on being dragged into the 21st century and being a free state........goats and all.

Amen Brother!!! --- Update to the previous post... Haslam was not my choice either. Ron Ramsey was a little closer to my political liking. I am very disappointed in Haslam. With a Republican House and Senate, he STILL has not pushed to get the IMMORAL Tennessee Inheritance/Estate/Gift tax repealed.

I have used mine in every gear except reveres. I suppose there might be an application for that too sometime.

I recommend trying a Baldwin BD7317 Dual Flow Spin On Oil Filter. If you buy them by the case from BF Web Express, they cost $12 http://www.bfwebexpress.com/ I put one on the wife's truck and I was VERY impressed with how clean it keeps the oil. A HUGE improvement over the OEM filters.

This is what I have been using on my truck for about 5 years.......the SAME BHAF and prefilter running strong and the combination of the BHAF and Outerware prefilter has worked great. The elastic has long ago pooped out but the prefilter is still doing its job and blocks a LOT of dirty and other contaminants that would otherwise get on the BHAF filter. I am very pleased with mine and highly recommend them.

Are you sure you are not hearing the hiss of a vaccum that has built up in the tank? This would make nearly the same symptoms. The fuel is heated as it goe through the fuel filter cannister. Eventually the fuel reaches a stabile temp. and expands a proportionate amount depending upon the fuel mix, temperature, elevation, and other factors. The fuel can expand in volume nearly as much as other oils of nearly 10% of its volume. You park the truck when done and it sets over night. The fuel cools and contracts due to the cooling and a vaccum is created. The fuel filler cap should have a pressure relief vent in it. The roll over valve prevents fuel from leaking out, not vaccum. This would not relieve vaccum pressure though. Anyhow, that is my theory. Does the fuel tank do this with a full to the tip top fill?

The best solution is an Air Dog or FASS. Having said that, have you tried the OEM Airtex replacement fuel lift pumps? The Carter style fuel pumps are junk. The Airtex pumps are pretty good pumps for an OEM replacement pump on a stock engine truck. Might help keep you going until you are in a better money position to upgrade. http://www.airtexproducts.com/TSB/TSB-0407-01.pdf If you engine and fuel system are still stock, this pump is a drop in replacement for the orginal and MUCH cheaper. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=882158 Rockauto has them for $111.79 http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1366602&parttype=6256&partkey=882158&a=FRc1366602k882158-2634394

Wow! Really sorry to hear about your ball joint dissaster. Sometimes when stuff like that gets really rusted together about the only thing that stands a chance of breaking it loose is the "flame wrench". Maybe you have already tried that and I missed it but doesn't sound like you have much to loose now. I dread the day I will have to do mine. Then you guys can be the smart asses with all the great ideas!

K&P Filters was really vague about data on their filter material. The only info. I could find was the ASTM F316 spec. that states filtation size from .1 -15 um. Where did you find your info. They look like a good quality filter but no way to verify the spec. it filters at that I could find, or was willing to spend the time looking for.

I just LOVE my Farm Boy Performance 5 inch straight pipe exhaust. The price was right too! http://store02.prostores.com/servlet/farmboysdieselperformance/the-Dodge-5.9L-Cummins-04.5-dsh-07-cln-Exhaust-Systems/Categories

Just switched over to the Baldwin BD7317 this last week when I did the oil change and services on the wife's truck. Oil pressure and all looks good so far. :thumb1:I'll be keeing an eye on the cleanliness of the oil as compared to the BT7349 I have been using in the past.

Yet another reason why I will NOT every buy another Ford again. Ford vehicles just steadily fall apart as they age. I traded our last Ford "Tarass" with the known defective transmissions for a rotary cutter. The "Tarass" transmission would have cost me double what the car was worth to fix. Now I have a quality Woods rotary cutter. If Ford put as much quality in to their cars as Woods did into their equipment, they would corner the world car market. Ford makes some nice looking cars and trucks but they are JUNK. From the early 1970's on back they used to make great cars and trucks.

I am most interested in the soot removal and holding capacity of these filters. In particular, how much will the bypass portion (5 micron) of the filter hold before it completely becomes full and oil flow through this section of the filter media stops. How long this takes and how many miles are accumulated will be the telling figure especially if this filter will continue to fully function the entire 7,500 miles between oil changes good enough to extend the oil changes out to longer intervals.

OK, Here is the data and info. I have been able to gather. I have uploaded the engineering specs. for both the Baldwin BD7317 and BT7349 below which also show oil flow rates for the BD7317. The engineer I was trading emails with said he had no flow rate data for the BT7349 but DID say that on the top end of pressure, the BD7317 would flow more oil and out perform the BT7349 if I understood him correctly. I will put in quotes his comments below:

BF web express has the the Baldwin BT7349 for $4.79 each plus shipping if you buy them by the case. http://www.bfwebexpress.com/catalog.asp

I saw his name and avatar in several threads covering this topic in my Google search. --- Update to the previous post... As best I can tell the Fleetguard LF3894 crosses over to the Baldwin BT7349. A lot of the threads I read through were guys changing over from the BT7349 to the BD7317. Just wanted verification from those who have actually done this.

I spent a half hour doing searches of this forum and found nothing. I thought I remembered a thread where this conversation was on going? Anyhow, I am considering using the Baldwin BD7317 Dual Flow oil filters on our trucks (in my case a 2002 and 2001 HO Cummins B 5.9). The centrifugal bypass filter mod is on hold for awhile. Will this filter work safely? I read a number of posts in the Cummins forum that guys were already using them with good results. Any comments, suggestions, and better ideas appreciated. Thanks!

Kinda late on this thread but I would not install a standard output alternator. I would pay the extra money and get the high output 200 amp alternator. This will put an end to the dim headlights while the grid heaters are cycling and save your batteries to boot. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350362932627&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT This is what I plan to do when my alternator passes on.

I still have the stock clutch in my truck and you can read my list of goodies in my sig. The clutch will hold for most applications......HOWEVER.......under full power in 4th, 5th, & 6th gear it WILL slip with any kind of a load in or behind the truck. Empty, the clutch will hold but on occasions has slipped in 6th gear going up steep hills with 30lb. plus boost. As long as you use some discreation and common sense, you should be OK with the OEM clutch. When it finally wears out, replace it with a Southbend clutch.