ISX

I've been fighting that for months. Thanks a lot!

It just shows me this: I tried clicking on lock checking it and unchecking it, still disappears if I click on anything. Went to view and theres nothing there either.

My front end makes a really loud knock through every single bump and vibration it encounters. I remembered my bolt on the shock looking like this when I changed them but had to get it back together and just ignored it. Only the passenger side looked like this, the drivers side was fine. The shock bushing had so much play it could bang each side of the bolt, and it was incredibly loud. So I got some 10.9 hardened bolts that don't have the thread so far up to wear out that should last forever. Went ahead and did both sides. Got some locknuts so I can do away with that big tab thing. I don't know why they did that tab thing when you can get to it with a wrench easily. Maybe a squirrel slayer or something was it's intended purpose.Knocking problem solved. Maybe this will help someone else.

I think your pretty close to the rest of us. Your problem is the HY35 chokes out a little lower and also restricts exhaust.I just took the same trailer at the beginning of this thread to a 15% grade hill about 15 miles from here and I am doing about 1350-1400 to hold 70 up it in 5th. Downshifting is the best thing to do and slow down on any big hills.

These things are taking forever to load, but here is the first one calculated out. I must say I haven't seen diesel that looks like water in a while --- Update to the previous post... The torque test was also a sham. The Dmax didn't downshift because they didn't floor it, the cummins either had a busted oil pressure gauge or they ran it out of oil. You can hear the powerstroke floored downshifting and loud as hell, yet at the end "it can hold higher gears cause it has the power".

I think my particular truck has a rating of 14,000lb trailer. The engine weighs about the same as yours. They keep saying the 24V is heavier but I don't see how when I have that huge P7100. I don't know if you are talking in towing or unloaded terms. Everything is relative, I have never figured out mileage for something as heavy as you pulled. I might have pulled that heavy when I pulled a powerstroke on a huge bumperpull trailer, I didn't figure mileage though. Towing you are getting the same as everyone else. I don't know where you are reading this crap about the 3rd gens, they don't get 16-18 pulling the same trailer as you. Dorkweed gets 18 pulling his "5x8 trailer loaded down, with a small johnboat lashed to the top", that's not exactly a 10,000lb camper, if he had your camper I am sure he and anyone else who pulled it would be in the same 11-13 range. I'd like to see what I got pulling it though Unloaded, I think you said the best you ever got was 20. Mike told me that the stock 24V has such retarded timing that you are lucky to EVER see 20. He said to turn the chip to 5x5 and it will be as good as it gets. He has pulled off 25 so that shows he isn't lieing lol. As for me, I think driving habit has a lot to do with it and the area I drive in. When we went to that NAPA store is basically my route all the time. I do 55 everywhere and dont get much higher. At the same time I don't screw around in town, which is why the only time I ever get pulled over is in town. I usually try to do 40-45 minimum everywhere. According to my new EGT gauge, the max I hit going to town and back (20 mile trip) was 649F. Mike even said "Keep it under 600F and 5psi and you will see over 20mpg", from what I can tell this is a surefire way to get it. 4wd will also deduct you.. Your cad thing was also stuck in 4wd so now it should be a little better mpg. Your truck sits higher, your tires are bigger.. I have a lot of advantages. Driving around in st louis isn't where you will get any mileage either haha. Drive somewhere at 55 without the trailer with the chip on 5x5 and do the 600F/5psi rule and I bet you will get a good number. Another thing, I lug the hell out of it. I don't get over 1750RPM hardly ever, mainly only when I finally get in 5th and am on the interstate, but at 55 I am only around 1650 or something.

I didn't ask if it had them I asked if I could adapt mine to use them... You know as well as I do the vacuum ones are slow to react and overall are just crap.

The guy who rides with us has a brand new F250 with the 5.4 and the torqueshift automatic. The transmission is awesome in that thing, but he needs it to be awesome. He pulls a travel trailer just like yours John but it might only be 7-8k lbs max. He gets 5-7 pulling it. This is all statistical... Now get in your cummins and get in his F250. I rode with him down there once and he always said "man it pulls like a dream, has lots of power....." He has never been in a diesel much. So upon getting in and getting to the interstate where mine will just flat out fly, his will downshift twice (5spd auto and gasser revving capabilities) and just be running the hell out of it. He sees this as normal.. Which it basically is on a 5.4, what else would you expect it to be doing when going up a 4-5% grade at 70mph. I am going to try and trade him sometime, he can pull mine and I pull his. Would definitely save money doing that since he would have my smaller trailer that he might get 10 with lol. The point is, statistics might show one story, but driving them is entirely different. I am not sure about those 8.1 vortecs, I hear they get 10mpg no matter what and have a lot of power, so that might even the odds up a bit. They have 450HP and almost 500TQ, so they would be something interesting to tow with.

Does your "fly by wire" have the same connector as my worthless vacuum actuated one? Or is there any way to adapt it?

Fuse boxes are also a lot different. Figured I would get a pic of it. Not sure if the 98 has an updated fuse box, probably does.

That doesn't tell me what dead connectors are when I don't know what they ever went to

Heres what I got for everything that comes down to something on the engine or engine bay (not counting all the fuse panel crap on the side. I guess there is a battery temp sensor, cruise control wiring on the side too. I got pics of every single connection so let me know what you want to see. As you can see I have a lot of dead connectors so maybe someone can tell me what they go to. I will add pics of all of them. There is also a connection on the top front of the nv4500 that one wire has come off of. It isn't the speed sensor so I have no idea what it is for.

One thing that XP had that windows vista/7 doesn't is that menu bar. But I found out if I hit F10 it will come up, but once you touch it, it disappears again. How do I make that thing stay unhid so I don't have to click F10 every single time?

No, I can't remember what the VE pressure is supposed to be but it is pretty low. Mike knows what it is.

Maybe this will give you the info you wanted John. I just did this at 100,000 a year and 9 years (cajflynn) and on the 12mpg for diesel and 8mpg for gasser, he has saved $60,000.

I just went to the website of the base around here and they got nothing but apache pictures and they all look the same as what I got a pic of. Guess that narrows it down There were 2 fighters flying right next to each other about 20 min later. What I don't understand is why the helicopter has the same path, every single time. I assume they just follow an aerial route or something. Probably like "go over the guys house who always has his hood open, then turn around and go back over it, then leave, if he looks to be up to no good, circle him a few times". They do circle a few times a lot

Yeah you just squeeze the plastic tabs together and pull the line and it comes right off. You shouldn't have to pull with any tension, it just unlocks and the line comes off.

What the hell is all that! I think I have one of those connectors, you can see it right under the red hose clamp. I have a few other connectors going to nothing around the engine. I'll trace them all out and show you tomorrow.

Get a pic of what yours looked like. I can't guarantee what you are seeing is right on mine. For one those grid heater lines are in the pic and they don't normally go like that.

I knew I had seen that before, been sitting here :banghead: My fuel tank lines are the same connector (on the top of that big white thing in the tank). You just pinch those things just like it says to do in the pic.

Not sure what you meant by bale so I took a few different pics.

They had the same gauges as you on the 1998 version so I think it reads it the same. Mike's IAT looks exactly the same as mine. I am wondering about everything else. I might take all the sensors out and take a pic and you can compare them to yours sometime tomorrow. They might even have the same connector

According to this site it can be used, same engine and everything so I don't see why it wouldn't work: http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?32-FAQ-Commonly-Asked-Questions-4BT-Files-Pics-Links-PART-s-BOOKMARK-THIS-THREAD I think the connector you are looking at is just a fancy compression fitting. It basically goes on just like the injector line nuts. Let me find some pics that you can say yay or nay to on how it looks. Yes the engine has a cam lobe that pushes on that lift pump "pumping" it. Do the fittings look like the ones in the pic? They are the fancy compression ones.. just unscrew them all the way then the line pops out.

You did the same thing I did the first time I saw it. Yesterday I was looking more closely. QK4628 fits all 1994-01 Dodge 1500, and 1994-99 Dodge 2500, and 3500 4x4 trucks. $44.95 QK4760 fits 2000-early 2002 Dodge 2500 and 3500 4x4 trucks $96.95 Still can't believe pure diesel has it labeled like that, I would have assumed someone would have told them it was wrong sooner or later.