ISX

My brother has 3 batteries that are all good sitting out here. Can you say, 7000CA? I was actually telling Mike last night about how it would be nice to have a really crappy alternator (that somehow still works) and then a deep cycle battery and run just the grids off of it. So then it is killing an alternator that you don't care about and a battery that is meant to be "deeply cycled". But you would have to find a way to rig up the crappy alternator. Maybe that's what I should do today.

According to this page it is 450-700A while cranking. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/starter/starter.htm You are right about the cranking amps adding up. Like I have 4 all around 1000CA so I have 4000CA

Hmmm, think you just prompted me to make a video showing every part on the P7100. Then everyone can know what they are talking about when they say "delivery valve" or something.If you saw my fuel pressure article, you notice my pressure is low. Well I got a new overflow valve to fix that and it should be here today so I can make an article on installing that, and the resulting pressures.

I can't really say anything about kids yet Anyhow, Flman that is the most invaluable thing you can ever get. We have tonnssss of tools in our garage but I have gotten away with using the thing in the 2nd pic for a long time. Then my dad saw that and said what are you doing with that thing, then gave me that other one (1st pic). I would say 3/4 of my write ups or anything I have posted on this site has been using JUST the tools in the 1st pic. It is light and has everything you need in it so why would I bother lugging my tool box over then looking through different drawers for everything that is in that little kit. That screwdriver bit one has a socket wrench hole on the top, so if I tighten something down with it, then need to torque it, I just put the socket wrench on top of it. None of those things have broke somehow, and I have had breaker bars on the 14mm ones. I would sell the truck before I sold that Yes, those are both 1/4" drive sets lol. The thing I wish they had done was went up to 1"/20mm. That thing is really fun to see how much pressure you can get on it before it breaks, and since nothing has ever broke I don't see why I can't have bigger sizes Alright, sorry for going off topic, back to the kids lol.

Temperature has a lot to do with it. At 0F I might see 14.5V. But all summer I am at 13.6V. As the engine and alternator warm up after startup in the winter, it would drop back down under 14.

I know a lot of guys want to mess with the pump a little or just make sure it is working right so I made 6 new articles that follow that line of thought. I tried to show how everything on the pump works in as much detail as possible. [*]Fuel Plate [*]AFC (Starwheel) [*]Fuel Shutoff Solenoid [*]Governor [*]Fuel Pressure [*]Rack

Alright here is the link to the fuel pressure writeup I did. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen12v/p-pump/p7100-fuel-pressure.htm

I did that test.. Threw the whole jar in a pitcher of ice after thinking of what Flman had said. Sure enough the diesel/water cooled at the same rate. It just baffles me how it won't touch the ice cube. I really don't know what to think of it. Just seems so far fetched, although it is obviously true.

I don't really see it as them destroying their skin. It is just a way of expressing something about them. Like people with a tattoo of their first born. I personally think they are neat to look at. I like seeing what everyone has but I never ask them about any of them. I would never get one, but if other people want one, then why not enjoy what art they have on them. There was one guy at a welding shop with a few tattoos on his arm that I kinda thought were neat, then one day his shirt caught on fire and he ripped it off and I bet he had more ink than skin. I thought it was awesome. What I think looks like crap is the people who get their last name across their back in huge letters. I notice that is a new thing to do among teenagers now. One kid I know was 16 when he got it done. But really, a last name on your back? So when you take your shirt off "hey look its a tattoo of my last name!" rather than some fancy artwork that might be worth showing. I think you should wait till your at least 21 before you start making life-long decisions. I just searched and a lot of tattoos look like crap. People getting their eyeballs tattooed, their tongues... I think this one is awesome http://best-tattoo-remo-val.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/phoenix-bird-tattoo001.jpg but I notice a lot of them are of stuff that is just pointless or seems like it would only last a few years before it became "out of style".

I didn't say it ever died at that low of idle. I just need to let off the clutch quicker.

Idles at whatever I want it to idle at. Just turn the idle screw. I have it idling really low so it will engage the clutch without jarring everything. So I think it is around 620.Stock they say to make it idle at 750-800 with A/C and all that on. The side of my engine actually says 925. I've notice that is only a 215HP cummins thing as all the other models say 800 as far as I know.

I have no anti-stall I went out and tried it a little and remembered why I don't do that. People think you are racing them lol. I guess I will go back to it though. Thanks for everyones input!

You just let it idle and drop the clutch in 2nd? I think I pretty well do that too, or else I am just sitting there jerking like crazy for a while. I might have to do it a little more vigorously and see if it snaps my neck like I am thinking.

I thought about that but the original test as you saw showed no heat transfer at all. But Flman was right about the different liquids and everything. If I had a diesel ice cube it would probably chill the diesel. I am still kinda baffled by the whole thing. Maybe I will wrap my head around it one of these days. Even you just said the greater the difference in gradients the more heat transfer, which I understand that, but when an ice cube is freezing, and the diesel is 70F, why wouldn't it cool the diesel. I think it was melting the cube but the water slid down it and into the bottom. But I still don't understand why the diesel 1/16" away showed no signs of being cooled.

You've got a point. I will have to find a coil. Hmm, so in theory if I put the jar in the fridge, the diesel and water should cool at the same rate? --- Update to the previous post... Well crap I thought I was onto something. I threw the whole jar into a pitcher of icewater and the whole thing cooled at the same rate. Diesel was a little slower to cool but hardly. I think I am going to stick a fuel temp gauge in my truck one of these days and see what happens. Thanks for getting me back in line Flman!

Ah. Yeah the biodiesel trick works good because it has insane lubrication in it. There are some people that say it gums stuff up which is from dirty biodiesel. It also gels a lot easier than diesel in winter, I wouldn't even use it if it is under 40F. The more viable option is to just run a light dose of 2 stroke oil through every tank. If you go to walmart and get the TCW3 super tech, just dump half a quart in for every 35 gallon fillup. There is some info on it here http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/2-cycle-oil.htm It is mainly for the 24V trucks, I don't think ours need as heavy a dose. In fact my ticking went away after the tank of biodiesel and never came back and I didn't even fill up with any biodiesel since that time. So I believe it just needs a little bit to get some lube in there and then it lasts for a while. So half a quart for 35 gallons should keep it happy. I haven't ran anything in a long time and that ticking never came back. The 24v's use a quart per 35 gallon but half a quart should be perfect for just a little lift pump. The P7100 is actually lubed by engine oil so if it doesn't get fuel, it just stops running. Nothing detrimental is going to happen to it if the lift pump stops working. The lift pumps on these are pretty long lasting so in most cases it will be something like the overflow valve that stops working that causes low fuel pressure. I have a long article on fuel pressure I will have to link you to when Mike puts it up.

Look at this crap. No wonder the VP melts down. Diesel has no heat transfer at all. Maybe with some extreme temperature differences it would take some of the heat, but if it hardly changes at 1/16" over an ice cube then really, it is completely worthless. It wouldn't even melt the ice, the water on the bottom was because the diesel wouldn't transfer any heat into the ice. I know it works on the engine like the bottom of the pistons but there is a big temperature difference. I don't think the VP is getting to 1000F so I doubt the diesel is going to be taking much heat away from it.

Couldn't you have just got some tan spray paint?

Well it's not the power its the clutch that screws me over. It will not slip it is either grabbing or not, so it just starts jerking the truck forward as it grips and ungrips. Believe it or not I screwed up one day and was really out of it and just whacked the shifter down (which happened to be 4th gear) and I did the usual let off the clutch and give it a little gas once it grabs and it lunged forward jerking a lot but never died. I only went maybe 20ft before I pushed the clutch in but I bet it woulda gone right up to cruising speed.

What is the HP pump? What are the specs on your truck? The mechanical pump should last a long time. If it makes noise you should add some lube to your diesel. Mine liked to tick so I dumped in some biodiesel and it went away. Electric pumps are very expensive compared to the mechanical one. I'm not sure why yours are going out. Generally, running 2 pumps is not recommended. It is possible but is usually costly and unneeded. If you can give us some more detail on your whole setup and truck specs it would be a little easier to understand what you are trying to do. --- Update to the previous post... Here is a thread on what you are thinking of, though they are thinking of 2 electric pumps since 24V's have no mechanical pump. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2304-Nother-Question

Thats why you get in front of a trucker so you can blame him for slowing everyone down through the intersection

Same thing I worry about. The southbend and stock one would slip a lot and I could start in 2nd easily. When the southbend went and I took it out, the clutch wasn't worn at all. So I think it may have been designed to hold up with a little slipping. This valair one grabs so hard it seems like it is going to shear something.

Ever since I got my new clutch that hooks up a little too good for my liking, I have been forced to start off in 1st. I do try 2nd a lot but it likes to jerk really bad since it's so sticky. So what gear do all you guys with manuals start in? I'm talking without a trailer and level ground.

Well it is easy to turn the engine in P or N but when you put a load on it, it is like the idle fuel delivery thinger is already maxed out just idling without a load, so it becomes too much for it. I know Mike has had a miss ever since he put in those RV275's which further make me think that at idle, the pump just doesn't know what to think of bigger injectors. When your driving it I don't think it cares but at idle I think it has a "stock injector" mindset which makes it go nuts when you put in higher flowing injectors

So your pinpointing it to injectors. Seems to be the case. More fuel for the fix! Now what is the VP doing that won't let it fuel them things at idle. Let me look at some schematics and see what I can dig up on this thing. --- Update to the previous post... BTW, does it have any codes? And what do injector cleaner and summer fuel have in common that causes it to be fixed. Hmmm