ISX

http://www.puredieselpower.com/catalog/dodge-ram-25003500-dana-cad-cast-iron-4x4-shift-fork-kit-100-p-25411.html

Yes, reclaimed. That is what I was trying to get at lol (not an a/c guy by any means). I knew a vacuum pump would just be a fancy way of opening one of the a/c line nuts since it has no reservoir or anything. I think the point is that the stuff is hard on the atmosphere and you all know that the right thing to do is to take it somewhere for collection. The cop isn't standing at your house so chances are nothing will happen and it is merely a moral decision. It's interesting how anyone can get freon and charge their own A/C for $10 for a cheapo kit, yet they don't go out of their way at all to sell a reclaimer kit. So they are few and far between and most of us probably won't go out of our way to find someone that has one. But finding one would definitely be the right thing to do.

You might find it hard to get the engine up and out of the engine mounts because of the cowl. I saw a guy with a body lift that wouldn't have had any trouble. Anyhow, if you get all the weight off the engine mount, you can take the 3 bolts off on each bracket on the side of the block. That way is 10x easier than messing with those engine mount slots. The oil pan is kind of an issue and I had to take the pickup line off and leave the oil pan unbolted to do anything. Of course I was trying to get it out of those god forsaken slots, I put it back in by unbolting the brackets and that was incredibly easy. Great pics!

At idle my EGT's are the same with or without the fan/shroud. I am thinking the results might be more towards my wastegate setup allowing me to build 30psi faster since the wastegate stays completely closed until I hit 35.

I know, I'm the one that threatened him so he would make the video

You just had to ask :lmao:After driving it at 55mph (~575F) I have pulled into the driveway and idled for 5 min and it was ~350F. It's been that way since the beginning of time. Idling doesn't have any boost or wind through the intercooler so it relies solely on just pushing the air out of the engine, that's where having only 12 valves shows its ugly face. I have watched the 24V here drop the EGT's at an insane rate, I can't accomplish anything like that. I notice they will drop down to like 250F after just a minute goes by. I was contemplating putting a 24V head on mine for that reason. Another thing is the 12V has thicker exhaust manifolds, I figured it retained more heat than a 24V and radiated it to my probe at idle. Mine is also set to idle around 650, so I don't have as much air going through it, maybe idling it up would do something

I think the engine gets killed by dumping power to the VP (turning the key off). The lift pump can stay running but it won't do anything but shoot fuel through the return line.

And you wonder why Mike says over and over big tires kill mileage He changes his tires out to get firewood, then puts the others back on when he is done. I think tall skinny tires wouldn't hurt you much, maybe even gain you a little. Mine are so small that I do 70mph around 2050RPM. It works out good because it puts my 55mph RPM at around 1625. I get 27mpg with that setup at 55mph. 4.10 guys would probably seen an increase with tall skinny tires as well. The problem is when you go to tall FAT tires, you have more surface area (friction) and more rotating mass.

So what does the other side look like? The side with the heatsink.. I have never seen it. And how does the chip integrate into it to transfer the heat?

Lately I have noticed my EGT's are not very high. I have been driving really slow for a long time but ever since I took everything off (fan, shroud, all of it) my EGT's are really low. There is a steep hill here and I went up it and pressed down until it hit 30psi (wastegate not open) and just stared at the EGT gauge, and it stopped at 950F. It was 70F outside.

Guess I shoulda reread the last thread. Didn't know it took soo much stuff. I'll send you a lottery ticket so you can get that thing on there before Armageddon hits lol.

What is the word on this thing? You got it mounted in the showroom and scared to put it on? I know it is nice lol

It won't freeze your skin because of the leidenfrost effect. In fact I had some pour on my hands yesterday. If it is on your hand too long, it will pull the heat away from your hand then freeze it, but it takes time and a minute amount will just boil off. In any case, you don't rip the lines off, you just loosen it until it starts hissing out, go eat dinner, then come back and its all out. Your supposed to get it vacuumed off as it is illegal to just vent it to the atmosphere, as in $15,000 illegal. Shops may question you and such..

On mine you just take the tailshaft off and it is the big nut hanging off, you will see it in the article. I have done it twice now and it is really easy. 4wd have to take the whole transfer case off though. There are a ton of options but the only ones that seems to last are extreme stuff like Tig welding. I heard some good things about cotter pins. Mine has a split nut on it and you tighten it then you tighten the split halves so it "clamps" the nut more. Obviously doesn't work but o well. The hammering knocks anything loose, that is why it has to be something extreme. You can't really take the tranny apart if you do weld it though, that is one reason I just tighten it back up and call it good. If I had a 4wd, it probably would have been welded by now.

So going to 8/18 made it miss more, what was it at before?

I made an article on the 5th gear nut. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/5th-gear/5th-gear.htm It really isn't that big of deal. I have been just tightening it back up every time it falls off. Mine doesn't pop into 5th instantly either, I just push it into the slot and wait for the synchros to catch up and it falls in. My nut has come off 3 times (4 if you count that article since it was loose there too). I might weld it one of these days but you can prevent it by just never driving it under 1800 or so. Lugging it kind of hammers (like an air impact) the nut off. I actually never had any issues until I said screw it and drove with it down to 1400 RPM and pretty well just left it at that speed all the way through town. The nut fell off shortly after I started doing that. I never stopped doing it though, let it fall off, I love driving through town at low rpm's If you have a 4wd, I would keep it over 1800..., I can fix that nut in half an hour on my 2wd.

I know what's for supper Bring something back that will eat bluegill, to the point it will turn my pond red

You can see his setup uses those huge lines, then that vacuum reservoir... I'm thinking that would fix those issues. I just wonder if the bottleneck going into the cruise unit would keep it unchanged. I do think it is partially the vacuum pumps fault though so it couldn't hurt. I might have to try a reservoir on mine and see what happens. My "T" has a spot for another line anyways.

That stuff made my trans grind like crazy in 4th from 1000-1500RPM. No clue why. I have heard a lot of reviews on how smooth the redline stuff made it, that will be my next choice of oil.

Says:P1683 SPEED CONTROL POWER Relay; or SPEED CONTROL 12v Driver CIRCUITAn open or shorted condition detected in the speedcontrol servo power control circuit.

The vacuum line does this for each thing: HVAC-Controls vent setting (floor, head, etc.) when there is no vacuum it defaults to defrost. Cruise Control-Is used to pull the throttle back CAD 4x4-Is used to engage the axle http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2472-4x4-CAD-System My cruise control is a piece of crap. You go down a hill and it relieves all the vacuum and when you start going back up the hill, it is still collecting vacuum and after it has lost 5mph it will have enough vacuum and instantly floor it. This might be one of the reasons the can is there, not sure if it would be a vacuum pump capacity issue or a hose diameter issue (since they are tiny stock). The HVAC doesn't take much vacuum to work. I put a check valve on mine and that makes it work perfect.

All I really know about this issue is the 12v version of it. When you are bleeding injectors and get it to run, if some still have air in them and you rev it up it will pop. Of course it will idle rough if it has air in it along with white smoke. I know everyone says the connector tubes are a PITA to seal so I wonder if they are letting air in or something. Maybe one of the o-rings is torn or pitted or something on those tubes. If you want me to come help you rip stuff off and examine it and put it back on though..

Well I can only see part of the picture. Stock it goes from the vacuum pump to a "T" on the cowl, I'm not sure where it breaks off to go to the CAD but one will go to the cruise control (under battery) and one will go to the HVAC (goes through firewall over by the ECM/Downpipe. If you have met those requirements, I don't see why it won't work. If your vents will go to something other than defrost and the cruise control works, you probably did it right. If your 4wd light on the CAD works and turns on and off with the transfer case shifter, then you have fed all the vacuum ran components and everything will work.

On mine, there is absolutely nothing there. That is why there was room for the can lol. There is NO reservoir for the vacuum in a stock setup, just the vacuum hoses, nothing more.

Where would you put the probe? Put it in one of the PTO cover holes? I guess you could even drill the cover. I'd love to watch the temps of that thing