ISX

Yeah you can barely get any in there. Yesterday when I had the whole tailhousing off I absolutely packed it

My driveshaft likes to grab the rubber part of the seal and shear it from the metal part. I am on the 3rd one now in 100k, all of them sheared. This time I completely packed the rubber part with grease, so far its holding up good.

I don't know how yours is, if it goes into the transfer case or what. There is a small hole where the oil goes through to the tailshaft and not sure where it would go on yours. I took advantage of that since the hole is at the very bottom and it allows you to fill the trans up with the speed sensor than the fill port that I can barely get to.

That does sound like a good idea. There have been so many ideas that it's unreal. Every post about the 5th gear nut has a different idea to fix it. I did hear some good results from just putting a cotter pin in it. They might have got a different nut that would work better, like the ones designed for cotter pins. The thing is just doing it to where it doesn't destroy the shaft. Obviously any welding on it is not a good thing. The fully splined shaft that W&F speaks of is about the only thing that doesn't destroy anything and is a permanent fix.

Yeah I wish I could afford that. If I could afford that I would send in the whole transmission and tell them to rebuild it. I got to looking at the bolt holes and I notice that bolt that isnt a 10mm 12point is the same thread lol. Guess someone lost one of them. One interesting thing though, you can feel the nut loosen up. I remember the last time I did it 5th gear became very tight. Lately it has loosened up again. By that I mean 5th gear has a lot of play in it, but you tighten the nut and the whole thing is tight again. So that's one way you can tell. I need to do some editing on that page, I have thought of a couple things and want to change a few things. I pretty well threw it together in a hurry because someone needed it. I notice there is absolutely nothing for pics of the whole thing on the net so I want to try and get that page as good as possible so people can get the best info. I will throw in some links to quad4x4 and stuff like that to make it better. If you guys got any more tips to throw in let me know!

Made a writeup on the 5th gear nut since I can't find one on the internet anywhere. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/5th-gear/5th-gear.htm

Book says 26 quarts or 6.5 gallons.

Ah good. Wasn't sure if it was different or not. I've never taken it off so now we both know --- Update to the previous post... I was wondering about how it lined back up and I'm sure you've already figured it out but I went ahead and made a video of it just in case. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8L1m_mmoek

1. Yes2. YesHope everything on mine is the same as yours.

I just went out and tore mine all apart. I even left it tore apart and jiggled every wire I could get to and that speaker never came on, but if I tapped the unit with a screwdriver it would make a connection and work until I would shake it or something. So whatever thing internally that is doing it is beyond my grasp. You might take the connector and the ground wire off the unit and use a voltmeter to see if it stays at 12v even when you shake the wire around.

Is there a way to prevent them from even coming around? I remember watching something about them on discovery channel I think and they would swarm and end up killing people from the massive amount of venom you end up having in you. Think it is kind of rare but still, if you got kids running around and they happen to hit something they are in... I just wonder how you would ever keep them far away from even thinking of building a nest around the house.

Well yours could be a short elsewhere but it seems you have looked everywhere and found nothing, and I know mine is internal so I am just throwing it out there. I don't think they are made very well.

Ah you made it over here! So I have been curious as to what exactly the low efficiency does. I know it can keep you from hitting high HP since you won't have as much flow but most of us on this forum are just trying to accomplish reliable trucks that get impressive MPG numbers. I rarely get over 10psi and mainly aim for mileage so I am very curious as to what kind of effect making it more efficient would have on the mpg numbers. Maybe I am getting ahead of you and all of this will be explained in an article to come. Nice work!

Mine has that issue with speakers. Sometimes one speaker will not work, but if you punch the radio it works. Also works if you turn it way up to the point of arcing the wires back together. So I think the issues are inside the unit itself.

I never got to see "what the driver saw" The biggest problem is that when you have indicators like that, people will use them in place of just looking for dangers. Take for instance the back up indicators on new cars that ding or something when you get close to the car behind you. I am willing to bet many people just wait for it to ding then put it in park. They get used to this and never even look, if the sensor fails, they will just back into the car behind them. They can add as many sensors as they want, but your 5 sensors are the best sensors out there and can never be outdone. If anything, they need to find ways to encourage people to make the most of their 5 senses rather than making the least of them. That guy didn't even look when he pulled out, he had complete reliance on the onboard computers, just like I said, which they failed obviously. It shows how he got used to the computer and gave up his 5 senses and relied on that piece of crap.

Getting a little carried away now. Got rid of all the wires for a lot of stuff. Rerouted them so they wouldn't be in the way. You can see I moved the grid relays next to the fuse panel and ran the wiring along the cowl. So heres a before and after.

I'd say it's normal then. Not sure why it does it but doesn't sound like it's doing any harm. Do you got the results you can post on here?

That the new picture over the fireplace? I have a hard time telling Mike, Russ, and you apart, truckwise. Very nice pics though! Wonder if he can magically fix some dents on my truck lol

The audio ringer is pretty sketchy. See if you can get a resistance reading in ohms. You should be getting 0.1 to 2 ohms if you have a good ground 5 ohms being the max, though it should be more in the 0.1-2 range on most everything. If it has any higher ohms than that, you know the ground isn't connected very good.

I don't think that tube bends at all. Preformed or something. I'm pretty much set on that side, the drivers side is the one I wish had less stuff. Would work good if I could move all the braking stuff somewhere else, then I could get to the whole fuel system reallllly easily, right now I always have to reach around it. I took the engine out just so I could heli coil the AFC housing because I couldnt drill and tap it straight enough with the brake stuff in the way. Ok it was partially just to see the engine out of the truck too

I was standing on the drivers side and looking at it and it just looks so empty lol. Had to take a pic of it. Not sure what you mean by crappy mic, I can hear everything perfect so turn your speakers up lol.--- Update to the previous post...Well, I saw more unneeded crap, and the overflow tank was too tempting. I went all last year without a fan and never noticed it gone so why not rip it and the shroud off too lol. I just went for a test run driving it really hard and just as I figured, it didn't notice a thing. The a/c gets hot at stop signs and I think it is bad if you have the a/c on and no flow through the condenser, but I am a few cans short of enough freon so I haven't used it all summer. See anything else I can get out of the engine bay?

Not sure on any numbers or weight stuff. I think the new ones I got were neapco or spicer. Can't remember which one they were able to find a cross reference for. Your right on the center support bearing removal. There are no shims there stock, on mine anyways, just 4 bolts. The only shudder I get is the clutch grabbing too much when I am taking off. Does it vibrate when you are moving and push the clutch in? Have you tried putting the front tires on back and vise versa? Any difference as you are hitting the brakes? --- Update to the previous post... The double cardan joint I have has plastic retainer thingers. You have to heat them up and melt it out then they will come out. It is still a good joint so I don't want to tear it apart. I used another one yesterday, took it apart to see if it would even come apart, all the caps fell off and needle bearings fell out so I can't really use that again lol. I did find a very good tutorial on how to do it though. http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7478

While I had the bed off I did some rerouting and rewiring to make the batteries in the back crank the truck over much better than they used to. Last time I used the batteries back there, it would hardly crank over. So originally I had 2 up front (so it would actually crank) and just left the 2 in back hooked up. I stared at it a while and figured out a way to get all the current to the starter. I tested my theory by using only one battery in the bed and hooked 2 grounds to the frame, 1 ground from the engine to the frame, and 3 positives connected to the big red cable going to the starter. It started over better than before, but still not what I wanted. So I hooked a second ground from another spot on the engine to the frame. Nothing changed. I knew it started better than that if the battery was up front so I kept going. I ended up glancing at the starter and saw the terminal that goes to it and how small it is. I thought it looked so pathetic so I ended up taking one positive out of the connection to the stock lead, and ran it straight to the starter bolt, right on top of the stock cable. That made a world of a difference. I now have it all completed with all 4 batteries in the back and it starts as good if not better than the truck does stock with 2 batteries up front. I also threw the washer fluid reservoir in the back too. I want to get everything out of the engine bay I possibly can so I can work on it easier. That was pretty easy, just ran a clear hose inside the frame and it doesn't know the difference. I thought it might not pump through that much line but that thing is just too damn powerful So now I got all the room in the world, especially with that PITA washer reservoir out of my way. Seemed that thing was in the most obtrusive spot ever. I just gotta wash where it all was, thought it was some surface rust but it seems to rub off to show silver paint so not sure where I got that kinda dust. I just realized I said overflow tank in the video :banghead: Close enough

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2257-Fuel-Gauge

Who's dog?