ISX

You sure your truck can handle that? I like everything about that thing, keep having ideas of what I could pack into it. Never thought about the tires, we got a flatbed that I swear catches 6" of air on some of the rough transitions onto bridges around here. Very very niccce!!

The best way is with the biggest hammer you can safely swing! Presses take too long to mess with, but are definitely the best way. A hammer puts a ton of force on it for a second, when a press only puts the amount of force needed on it, plus you can center it and get things to make the force balanced and yadda yadda, but yeah nobody has one, and a deadblow does a good enough job, just takes some time. You just always have to be keeping an eye on what you are hitting, the ears of the yoke won't bend that easily but you still must be very aware of them. Also have to make sure the needles are staying in place, if one falls out and you start beating it into place, you will probably mess the bearings up and have to find another. On a side note, when you buy new u joints, you get everything but the driveshaft, meaning everything I took off of that driveshaft in the video (bearing caps, the joint the caps go on) all are replaced. You don't reuse one or the other, so as long as you take precautionary steps on keeping the driveshaft and yoke in good shape, the joint itself can be taken out by some pretty *constructive* means depending on how easy the caps are to remove.

Yes the play will tell you something is wrong. It shouldn't hardly have any at all. When mine went out, the grease had all washed out. There was nothing but rust powder, no bearings whatsoever. The only reason I caught it was because you would hear a lot of popping, which was the bigger particles of bearing fragments being smashed. Like I said, 2wd will not notice anything, it barely uses any bearing movement because it is so straight, so the only way to check is like I did in the video. Other than the popping mine had, I couldn't tell a difference, but you see in the video where I pryed the U joint out of the yoke and it hit the ground..when the u joint was bad, I had to do a pullup on the driveshaft with all my weight to get it to come down. I thought it was still in the yoke, nope, bearings were just that bad, but I never noticed it while driving, because of the straight shot. Don't give me that crap! There is a big tan line where my shoes are. --- Update to the previous post... Alright here is how to tear it apart. I do have one of those double Ujoint things here like this one that I can tear apart if you guys want to see how those tear down.. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=huePbcN65JU

Got the seal, now I know the other seal definitely wasn't where it was supposed to be because the new one has to be pushed pretty hard and then it pops into where it is supposed to be in the tank. When I took it out the thing pulled right out with no resistance since there was no seal.See Mike, one person job...

I compiled this video to better explain how to check U joints. Think I pretty much explained everything in the video. If you take them apart, use a dead blow hammer, NOT a regular hammer, you can bend the yoke and then the U joint bearings will not line up. Sometimes it becomes necessary to use a regular hammer but be extra careful where you hit! Make sure you put threadlocker on the 8mm bearing caps, mine have come loose on me and I have heard reports of the same thing happening to others. I found a very detailed website if you want to learn more about all the driveshaft components. http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-shaft/ http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=959Jhv3JWcA I will make a video taking them apart this afternoon, just in case someone wants to know how.

From what I can tell, the pumps are both very good. FASS might be 1 hair better. 17-18 is probably the absolute *perfect* fuel pressure Rule of thumb for most seems to be keeping it in the green.

I was told dealers quote 8 hours. So you did it and all the cleaning in 5?, Nice work! Nice to see you look ahead at things down the road too. Sounds like you should be set for a long time. How does it run now?

Good to hear it is running and getting great mileage! Now it runs as good as it looks :thumbup2:Amazing how you change something and notice that the sound it was making before was the sound of worn parts Hard to tell something is wearing out unless you compare what it sounds like now to a clip of what it sounded like "then". If you pull up next to any truck, you notice it doesn't sound the same, every truck sounds different based on so many factors. The problem is distinguishing the trucks that are running correctly.

ATLAS POWER SOLUTIONS, LLCJamestown, NDFinally got a call through to them but had to leave a message. It wouldn't go through on either number all morning, one is still broke but I finally got the other number to work I have NEVER been anywhere close to ND. Is it anything like Michigan or Missouri or Colorado or Minnesota, scenery-wise? Only reason I am moving from here is there is nothing to see If it comes to it I do have positions I can get here, but I really want that to be a last resort.

That's not supposed to be loose? It slides up and down so much I thought it was supposed to be like that . By the looks of it I think you are supposed to get it close to the bottom of the tank and tighten it so it can suck up every drop? I have never messed with one so have no clue how it is supposed to go. Got a new seal coming though, nobody had anything but the dealership, $10.

You could also try this. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/ratio/ratio.htm

Maybe, but I didn't leave all the things I used to take the bed off sitting around in the picture. It's pretty clean now but I can't see the damn thing. No lights around where it was and I was just spraying myself more than the truck. So tomorrow I will see the damage. The tank only leaks when it is over 3/4 and only when it is running. If those 2 factors are not met, it won't leak. Figure I will change all the rings and check everything over and see what gives. --- Update to the previous post... Now that I can see, got it all cleaned up. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Exterior/Fuel%20Tank/IMG_1644.JPG Got the pickup and all that stuff out of the tank. The gasket was in that spot when I pulled it out...no wonder it leaks. Also explains why it just pukes all the fuel out around the tank when I put in too much, rather than coming out the filler neck. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Exterior/Fuel%20Tank/IMG_1646.JPG All the connections. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Exterior/Fuel%20Tank/IMG_1645.JPG Fuel gauge sending unit. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Exterior/Fuel%20Tank/IMG_1647.JPG Filter on the bottom of the pickup. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Exterior/Fuel%20Tank/IMG_1650.JPG

I actually found a guy to call in ND to be a generator tech. I can deal with the cold, I just don't like it I wish I could work inside the hoover dam, I love that whole area. I don't have any problem with endless heat, the hotter the better. I will have to start searching for the other jobs you guys suggested! I don't know all the job titles so you guys are a big help. The thing seems to be pretty lenient but knowing the titles does seem to get rid of all the jobs that have nothing to do with what I want.Thanks guys!

..I will fix the fuel leak in the o-ring of the tank. I power washed it but I couldn't even see what I was doing because it's dark so tomorrow I will get you all the end result. But here are some before pics. If anyone has some pic requests while I am under there let me know.. Probably have the bed off all day tomorrow.

Thanks guys! I know it might take a little time but I figure I can find something eventually. I don't need much to survive on lol. I did 2 years at linn state technical college for industrial electricity at and then this summer was a crash course through generators/diesels. I guess I could go 2 more years and get a bachelors but I am ready to get my own place and start having money to polish up the beast

I always wanted to do something with a second A/C compressor. My ford's A/C leaked so it was perfect for a test, and it did pump up the 10 gallon tank to 40psi quickly, just idling, after 40 it would leak past everything because the threads are not NPT and A/C lines that go into it sealed it off with a special o ring thing. If you got it to seal and everything, you could run the clutch off a pressure switch so it would just disengage the clutch when it hit the pressure you wanted. The only downfall is the engine has to be running. Might be something to think about if they ever get cylinder deactivation into the diesel world and you make it run on 1 cylinder :lol:Nevertheless, I still want to do it, just not sure where I would mount it.

Today was the last day of college. These last 5 days were actually only to listen to a representative from a valve actuator company. I can work there but it is seasonal (spring and fall) and fall is too close to get on. So I am thinking of pushing that whole speil aside. So here are the things I have been thinking about or have seen that sound neat. I actually saw an ad a month ago in colorado specifically for a 12V mechanic for his fleet and it was IIRC, >$20/hr, but I no longer see it :banghead: That leaves: [*]Generator Tech [*]Diesel Tech [*]Windmill Tech [*]Electrician [*]Welder [*]Machinist [*]Hot Shotter [*]Boat Mechanic I am not a pro at any of those but have experience doing them all so can probably apply to any. I don't know if I want to be a field service tech or just inside some place. I would rather be field but don't know if that is the best route in the long run. States I want to live in: [*]Colorado [*]Utah [*]Nevada [*]New Mexico [*]Arizona [*]Nebraska [*]Wyoming Think anywhere farther North will be too cold for me I can get several jobs here, good jobs, but I want to move west and want to get my foot in the door somewhere early in life, rather than work here for 10 years then try and reestablish at another company when I finally move. So the rest of the week will just be mass produced resume sending lol. Gonna be an interesting.

My wastegate works fine and stock I could never tell when it opened. It opened around 23 supposedly but I never checked and a boost gauge never showed me anything. I could slowly go up from 18 and never saw the rate change. I say do what guesswho said, take the line off and use a regulator and turn it up until you see it open, then you know the pressure it is opening at.

I thought it was a honeycomb at first as dirty as it is. I always pop the hood and blast all the coolers with the power washer so nothing has bugs in it. Good for half of a third of a degree in my A/C vents.

The camera didn't pick that up at all. I thought I would see at least a little smoke but I couldn't see it at all, that's why I cut it out of the video. I have everything to do the manometer blowby test though so I might do it this week sometime.

I'm still going to say you have bird feathers in your intercooler :lol:The whole trip yesterday it never got over 20F over ambient, and was mostly around 10-15 over.

Now I see why your temps are higher. Look where mine is in comparison. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Under%20Hood/Other/IAT.jpg

Theres a hole to each side of the trans, maybe 1", I just got some big washes for the 1/4" bolt and tightened it up..

Got a little courageous with the camera. Theres a smoke scene or 2 in there, along with wheel hop from where they sealed a crack in the road. I didn't know it smoked that much on initial take off. Shows what advanced timing does when it's not warmed up.I know I coulda washed it a little underneath and did some other things but I wanted you all to get the full experience I turned the camera around at the turnaround point, but then it became extremely boring, so I cut all that out. Any requests? Thinking of pointing it at the IP to watch it move, kinda think it would be a little boring though. I've been reluctant to doing anything with the camera until I finally went out and tested the threads on the mount. It uses I think it was 1/4" standard thread, every bolt I have fit it. So the sky's the limit now

What's funny is I just ran it around again and it's 87F too Now that I got some ohms to go by I watched it like a hawk and it never went less than 6 kohms or 100F and that was from 60-90 going up a steep hill. So I can't figure out why yours likes to run hot. I notice AH64 said in another thread how his seemed to only vary the amount mine does. I wonder if its just a VP44 truck thing, though I wouldn't think so. Let me do some more testing over the next couple days and see how hot I can get it. Maybe your air filter is clogged