ISX

Might have something to do with debit cards and credit cards. My debit card is also a visa but the visa seems to work like a slower processing debit, it just takes whatever I charge to it out of my account, but debit works faster. I had to verify it on paypal.. I think a credit card that is solely a credit card would be different since they probably could care less as to how much money you have since they can just charge it, so I doubt you have to be verified. The country difference might be something doing it too. I actually ran across some videos recently that I couldn't watch on youtube due to being in the US. This one. Click on it and it just gives you a red message saying can't be watched in your country. http://www.youtube.com/index?ytsession=7IN5Vd3Ke2vNDHLpv1lSN_CHZ_bYQiu3fs3rx0-be1h4IhO-2YKeQUYOO0Ido0OlTVaQswBmokWFRqmGoQe0yub13KP47cAWqulDN-snxirXVEyLAeqdcpWFA7gjW-oJi3umx2oZtnKehLgYAGAQgzWKwletEAexxPbyiGvl2skJ9vIkKtDPb9XNfl8DypmOzowYoG_RPGAruX7xH7oCb1M75pu4c-acmdSq5AeyVjfKVCbA-N4mNz52a65U49p8mU0UEJ6613H_SXKPgP79RyVHrU35Sy9RJseHypw6nEudKuhDMHJay_nPVyxq-opgFt7dbgR0yTH2IvHFe60w2I6KtgxWQLihs_5V9T4wkV4Nk0btxma_q-n9kGR8sdi4bvCEqVtytL-mU4lAqBTQjVuejUTV0kd4 All it is, is a INSX music video, so I kinda think it's BS that I can't see it in the US! I knew a guy from Russia who got those messages all the time, but didn't think I would ever run into it. So I vote country is the issue on this one, though the debit thing might be doing it if your's is tied in with your bank account.

No, I think the VP44 has one plunger and it just lines up with each injector line, rather than having 3 pistons. I am not sure though.

Do you know of ANY writeups showing the CP3? A cutaway, description of everything in it, anything? I have never looked the CP3 it up but want to know more about it now So what info you got? --- Update to the previous post... Alright found this for anyone else wondering. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=187243 I'm guessing this has something to do with it. "DESCRIPTION A radial, 3-piston pump, with a gearotor-type fuel lift pump attached to the back cover, is used as the high-pressure pump for common-rail fuel pressure generation - it is capable of pressures between 300-1600 bar (4351-23206 psi) ." I *think* that is all within the CP3. --- Update to the previous post... Ok read your thing again, so it has that pump in it, so I don't see why it even has another lift pump. Does it have an entirely separate one besides the one built into the CP3 from the factory? Therefore from the lot you would have 2 low pressure fuel pumps and then the 3 piston high pressure part?

$6-7k sounds exactly right. I paid $5750 for mine with 250k and a dent in the bed. Your is 4wd though. I say start it at $7500 so they can work it down to what you want.

Mine drops the grids at 20mph. As for disconnecting them, I turn them back on under 60F for the same reason LiveOak mentioned, they are there to help. Mike doesn't use his down to 30F because it starts right up, but let me tell you all a story.When I got my truck and went through the first winter, it would start up on the first crank with no smoke at 0F WITHOUT waiting for the grids. So why have the grids hooked up at all! The reason is that the engine is battling the cold and it is very hard on it. A year later, I had to use the grids on the same 0F day to get it to fire up the first [or even straying onto the second] crank. Moral of the story, use them! The main reason I put a switch in there was that at drive through windows or anything that didn't require much time, the grids would cycle again, which was not necessary since the whole thing is 190F. It does help the batteries out too. As for them being a battery killer, I doubt it hurts them at all. They charge back up when your driving and the big load from the grids knocks all the crap off the plates in the battery. LiveOak having OEM batteries is a testament to this. Short trips are what kills batteries, though it would have to be continuous short trips without EVER having a long trip. I drive across the street 4 times a day all week, and my batteries never notice it. The only time they recharge is on my 90 mile drive home. I do have 4 batteries though. They say 100% charge is 12.65V and after the residual voltage wears off, my batteries sit right at 12.65. To make it even more interesting, I even have 2 lead acids of different brands and capacities, and 2 dry cell optima red tops, all hooked into each other. Everyone says you can't do that, but I have yet to see a problem after it being like this for 2 years. The only issues are when one battery is dead, as it will kill all the others.

Mississippi? Take the whole grid heater out Or just take the leads off like Mike does. Not sure what he does with them, wrap them in black tape maybe, or take them off from there and the relay and throw them in the garage

Hmm, well there you go. Wonder why it throws a code. Gotta be a simple way to get around that.

I *think* I looked and there isn't even an error code for it on the 24V. I only have 20 error codes to choose from so I knew I wouldn't have an issue lol. Mike takes the leads off the grid heater itself and I don't think he gets any codes doing that. Quick way to check is just go out and pull the little wires off of them and see what happens, worst that could happen is it throws a code.. If it doesn't throw a code and it's under 60F then you should notice that the volt gauge doesn't drop since the grids won't turn on.

Are you sure you didn't just put in new fog lights and are a 3M representative? :lol:Very nice job! I need to do that to my headlights, I notice yours are crystal clear. Probably make my headlights actually emit light too.

You never run out of material do you I wired that to the grid heater relays so I can turn them off, or turn them on and it cycles like usual whenever it's under 60F. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1278-Switched-Grid-Heater?highlight=switch+grid+heater Back to OP though! lol. You can put the gauges: [*]On the Pillar [*]Where mine are (floor) [*]Above the dash [*]A mount from the roof (might have seen something like that with semi trucks)

Reminds me of the time I was helping another guy who was getting up there in age. We were putting up flood lights and he had this one spot that was very very rocky, with big rocks. So I put the ladder there and said eh, not very sturdy. He grabbed it and shook it (and yes it was still very unstable), he said "oh hell, my sex life is rockier" and flew up the ladder

I threw mine on the floor. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Interior/Dash%20and%20Vacuum/IMG_0629.JPG

Here is the amazing part. Arrows dictate the flow of the water. That dashed line is the colorado river. There is THAT much water being held back.

Are you kidding me! I have to take my wiring harness off by hand! Yours just pulls out while you pull the cluster out doesn't it. Lot of things look different. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Interior/Other/IMG_1507.JPG

Thanks Koyote! That's kinda interesting though. Wonder what HO one is.

Someone smart who knows what they are talking about most of the time or helps you out a lot. I guess it could be swapped with master technician, something like that..

Well mine works and it's not even a 4x4 BUT! The switched part is actually the negative. To get my 4x4 light to stay on I just cut the wire coming out of the instrument panel connector and ran it to ground, I was wondering why it wouldn't work when I hooked it to positive. If you look closely you can see that there is a common wire that jumps to all the different lights, well that's actually a positive. So you might have been checking positive to positive or ground to ground. Is yours the same as mine? You could just swap lights with one of the other ones that you know works.. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Interior/Other/IMG_1509.JPG

I just got mine done, can't believe that's all there is to it. Anyways, something you might look at is the printed part of the board. Make sure all of those printed copper parts are continuous and not broken anywhere. I know it's probably not very likely but it seems like you have eliminated all the probably causes. Have you taken a volt meter and seen if you have voltage at that light when it is in 4wd? I am going to make my 4wd light be on all the time so people think it's a 4wd lol. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Interior/Other/IMG_1506.JPG

Hmmmmm, give me an hour and I'll post pics of the cluster removal. Hope mine isn't too different from yours.

I am trying to gather information on the flow rate at full power but the info is very scarce, though it is on the side of everyones block. So what I am looking for is the Flow Rate "MM3/Stroke". There are 3 VP44 models in the dodge trucks as far as I know. The models I need info on are the: 245HP 6Spd HO 215HP Automatic I already know the 235HP SO 5spd from Mike. If anyone could help me out, that would be great! So for example, mine is 103.. That's the info I am looking for. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Modified%20Pics/mm3.jpg

Now I'm curious. Need to get the mm3 on all the different models. Let me make a post in the 24V section and see if I can get some numbers for the vp44 HO and automatic models. Not sure we have enough members in 12V to get all the different models, let me try MNtoms site and see what I can come up with. I don't know much about the different 3rd gen models, what is your mm3 anyways?

Yeah I think your whole 12V error code page is for 24V. I don't have 3/4 of those things even on my truck. Plus I just got an error code of 12 which isn't even on your list. But it is on this list. I know I said 355 but then I read about the 55 and realized there was a pause between 1 and 2. I have disconnected it within the last 50 so it makes sense. Not sure why it says it don't work on 97-98 when it obviously does. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=-bcHn8AJli8

How does it flash codes on an analog odometer?

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Alright I talked to Mike and yeah we are both at 103 mm3, yet he is 235/460@2700 and I am 215/440@2600. Yet then there is the mileage thing that throws all of this info off. Hmm