ISX

The 2001 dmax I drove was not an allison.. It was a 5spd auto, no clue on the brand. Very nice though. I hated driving it but the drivetrain and everything like I said was very nice I've heard about the allison just being a name tag and still being junk. Someone told me they were made in china and just bought the name, no clue on validity of that. I know a lot of automatics have to have a ton of money dumped into them. It's sad that they don't come out of the factory like that dmax seemed to be. It was so detuned that it couldn't really NOT shift firmly. I mean how hard is it to get a firm shift with a low powered engine. It did pull trailers and everything very nice and effortlessly. I have never driven an automatic cummins, well not one with an automatic worth driving. The point I was trying to make is all the automatics nowadays are junk. You can rarely buy them from the factory and be able to pull said boat everywhere. I think it's a crime they do such a thing, they know we bought the truck to pull, they know the trans will overheat, they know we will be forced to spend thousands to get it to hold... hawkeye, thanks for getting the pics! Just ask what you want on the other thread since it seems to be the technical one

From what I can find, only fords 1997 and down will work. I do remember something about ford going metric after 1998. Pretty sure I have swapped wheels on my ford so I know the 1997 and down thing is true.Ah, found some exacts: "2006 and older dodges are 8x6.5 inches, 1997 and older fords are 8x6.5 inches, 1999 and newer fords are 8x170mm"Ford didn't even make a 3/4 or 1 ton in 1998. Well they did make a 3/4 but it was a 7 lug beefed up f150.

Wouldn't the cleaners make it burn faster and more forcefully, making the injections more potent. So when it is trying to lean out the fuel, the fuel is just burning too instant and increases piston speed since there is no load. 2 stroke I think cures it because it makes each injection less potent but longer lasting. So the cleaner would hurt power with a load because it is just blowing up really fast, but the 2 stroke burns slowly so is not going to make the RPM jump up, though makes each power stroke burn longer lasting. Maybe I am completely full of crap

SOME of us like to take our TIME!! From what you said needs to come off, I am thinking 40 hours minimum I can see it taking a lot of time but 20 hours does seem a little much if they actually know what they are doing. I mean thats 2 days, I had my engine out and back in in that much time, and that was by myself. I would tell them that's BS and wouldn't accept any more than a 10 hour quote.

Well, for one, I do know a guy who owns an allison dmax, who drove another guys 6spd to the place I worked and told me he wanted his allison back, saying it had twice the power of the manual. So there's one instance :lol:As for which is better, it depends, a LOT. If you have a torque convertor that actually works like it should and doesn't have a stall speed of your redline, I don't see any reason the auto couldn't be just as good if not better than a manual. If the auto gets hot, put on a better trans cooler. I think a lot of the people who hate autos just have never driven a properly set up auto, which are very hard to come by these days. The only truck I have ever driven with one was a dmax, it pulled hard in every gear and this was an 01' (pre allison), it was extremely smooth and got up and went pulling a trailer just like any little car running around town. Down low, a good auto will really shine when you are on a hill at a stoplight with your TT. There is also something to be said for why Cajflynn has 840k on his auto or has an auto at all, when he is doing nothing but pulling boats and other heavy things everywhere constantly.So now that we got that squared away, I drive a manual I like the firmness it has with power, even though an auto can keep it in the power range better. I like being able to lug it and still be "locked up", auto can't do this and would downshift which I think wastes fuel. I get good mileage in the city and on the highway, I believe the city mileage is because of always being locked in, an auto seems to waste a little bit because of how an automatic works, though a "properly setup" auto should minimize this issue, but I will still win the city mileage As for towing, this is actually a toss up between what you want to be nicer to. If I am on that same hill with my TT, I have to get near redline so that I can make it to 2nd without being back down to 0mph, so I am being harder on the engine. Of course, this isn't as pronounced as you get higher in speed, though I know everyone notices the big gap between 3rd and 4th. These issues can be coped with but the engine does suffer a bit, where an auto can just unlock the TC and get some torque multiplication going on and go up the hill at lower RPM. Hilly highway TT driving, I think this is better with a manual, if the TC unlocks on an auto then you are compromising more RPM for staying the same speed on the highway, using more fuel, though I doubt it's much more fuel to notice. Having a manual up all the hills would be the good choice since all the work will be transfered to the engine rather than the TC. So they both have their benefits. I never drove that dmax on the highway, but not so hilly highway driving really isn't a comparison since both the manual and auto should be "locked in/up". Oh and if you are wondering what a crappy auto is like, they rev way up to move, hardly go anywhere until the TC locks, they are junk. In theory, you shouldn't be able to even notice it locking up if it is really really good. So auto's cost money, but a good one is so damn nice.

That's what I am thinking. Having bigger injectors is letting more fuel in, even at idle, and that's enough fuel to make it rev above normal idle speed, so it is trying to do anything it can to get it back down. A load drags the engine down enough for it to not try and overcompensate, which it seems to be right on the edge of having enough load to not do it. Then you get to AH64ID's idea which is about as right on as I can think of. Maybe it will go away over time as the injectors that are really strong wear out a little.

Not a damn thing at Lowes, other than the boot you got. I think we just need some big constant tension hose clamps like on the boots, that you can get really tight.

Yeah we all don't have worn out scotch brite pads laying around You can get this at walmart or anywhere, it cleans sinks or aluminum or anything. It's actually the only thing that will remove any and all hard water stains, no matter how much they build up or how long they have been there. It is just powder, and you get it all wet and it turns into kind of a paste, that paste is what you clean everything with. Maybe I will make a demonstration video to show how neat it is, but here is a pic first. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Under%20Hood/Injectors/Cleaning%20Internals/IMG_1401.JPG

Forgot about the boost gauge port. I am actually going to lowes right now and I will search high and low and see if there is anything that would plug that turbo off good enough. I like your setup but I have also seen people get to 10psi, then it all goes south. So it takes some pressure to get certain things to show themselves. I'll see what I can find and take pics with my phone and then we can see how feasible it is.

So I popped out another one because I found something else to clean it that wouldn't scar it as bad. Here is the scotch bright way (from first injector) and then todays injector using cameo aluminum and stainless steel cleaner. What's interesting is I spent 10 min to get that much accomplished with the cameo, that's the only thing I hated about the scotch brite, it was like taking a grinder to them. I wanted something that would do it easily so I could stop before going too far. The cameo actually got the majority off within a minute but the tip needed a lot of TLC to get it all cleaned up. Scotch Brite http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Under%20Hood/Injectors/Cleaning%20Internals/A.JPG Cameo http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Under%20Hood/Injectors/Cleaning%20Internals/B.JPG Scotch Brite http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Under%20Hood/Injectors/Cleaning%20Internals/A2.JPG Cameo http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Under%20Hood/Injectors/Cleaning%20Internals/B2.JPG

I wonder if the oil got so hot that it broke down and became really thin As for your 2 threads, that's not a problem. I know what your intent was with the other thread and just because it ended up just like this thread doesn't make it bad. There's good info in both threads that make both worth having. Many of us on here have auto's or 5 speeds and have hardly seen a NV5600, so anything you say, no matter how many separate threads it is on, is very worthwhile to the forum. I have already learned a ton from your whole ordeal, I'm sure many others have too. If you got a camera and know how to stick pics on here, you should post a few. I'm very interested in how everything looks on it, including just the entire NV5600.

Well I started making a post on how to do it but was going back and forth between my pics and yours and found out I missed that spring shim and clicked away. The only thing different that I can see is the top of them. Your copper washer is also very thick, mines very thin. I don't know if 1st gen injectors are exactly the same as mine, would think they would be. Maybe you should throw a link to the same page in both the 24v and 12v (1st and 2nd gen) sections on the static pages. Then we can share pics and make one giant article. Just need a few pics showing the different top parts of the injector. If you look in that FTP thing and go to Truck Stuff/Ryan's Dodge/Under Hood/Injectors/Cleaning Internals/ and you can see all the pics I got.I made sure to get pics of the black thing on top of the spring and that spacer thing between the nozzle and other half of injector because they go on a certain subtle way. I could make an article using both our pics and you can kick it around, or however you want to do it

Well I didn't have to mess with the vise. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Under%20Hood/Injectors/Cleaning%20Internals/IMG_1374.JPG http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Under%20Hood/Injectors/Cleaning%20Internals/IMG_1385.JPG http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Under%20Hood/Injectors/Cleaning%20Internals/IMG_1386.JPG http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Under%20Hood/Injectors/Cleaning%20Internals/IMG_1387.JPG Here's Assembly pics, in order, and I forgot to bang that shim at the bottom of the spring out. Put spring in. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Under%20Hood/Injectors/Cleaning%20Internals/IMG_1388.JPG Put whatever that is in. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Under%20Hood/Injectors/Cleaning%20Internals/IMG_1389.JPG Put nozzle in. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Under%20Hood/Injectors/Cleaning%20Internals/IMG_1392.JPG Put pintle needle in. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Under%20Hood/Injectors/Cleaning%20Internals/IMG_1393.JPG Showing both halves, about to be screwed together. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Under%20Hood/Injectors/Cleaning%20Internals/IMG_1394.JPG Complete injector. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Under%20Hood/Injectors/Cleaning%20Internals/IMG_1395.JPG I found some "Extreme Pressure" grease thats supposed to stand up to 300F constant and keep it from rusting and getting water in it and all that crap so I rubbed the whole injector down with that and stuck it back in. Yes, I only did one for now. Might get the rest some other day. All in all, I thought it was fun. Think I went a little overboard with the scotch bright. It started though so I guess I didn't screw up too bad.

Did you know if you go the wrong way, the alternator pulley slips on the belt effortlessly, but if you go the right way it grabs the belt and cranks over the engine.. :banghead:Guess the last time I tried it I started off going the wrong way, saw how loose it was and said the hell with it. Man that ticks me off. If you only knew the ways I been barring the engine over

If the pulley way doesn't work, you can try the way at the end of this short thread. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1848-Damper?highlight=barring+engine I don't see how you guys can ever do it with the alternator pulley, I can put a socket wrench on the tensioner to get even more tension on it and the belt still slips and engine never budges. Always have to revert back to the laws of physics to spin it over.

Coils and Springs? What are you guys, nuts? Here's what you do John.. Simple, elegant, and divine. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Exterior/IMG_0400.JPG

http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Interior/Other/IMG_1373.JPG

I wonder if it would be cheaper to just get a male coupling for the air line and screw it into a hose barb end and unplug the hose from turbo wastegate and hook it in. Then make a cheap turbo cap. I've never seen my idea carried out though Looks like you have a nice setup going. How do you make it anyways? I meant taking this hose off and using a setup like the connector I am holding. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Under%20Hood/Other/IMG_1368.JPG http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Under%20Hood/Other/IMG_1372.JPG

What in the helllllll! I wonder if I can ban a mod who has more experience points than me

That woulda been easier than what I had to do. I didn't have spare toyota pickups laying around so had to reuse the lugnut from my own truck. Might have to dig around for one now. Mine were stuck in there so good I had to get very creative. I lubed them all up with grease so lets hope they come out easier monday.

So I was messing with center console and everything was in the sun and I could barely hold it, so I decided to have some experiments, the results were pretty incredible. All of the things had been in direct sunlight for hours and its about 95F right now. So here's the results from the infrared: Metal on screwdriver: 185F Grey plastic for socket kit: 177F Seat: 155F Tires: 180F Aluminum Rims: 89F Aluminum Tool Box (the ones for truck beds..): 89F Rocks in driveway: 120F Pretty amazing. I will see if I can find anything that breaks 200F. Maybe I have a black impact socket in the sun somewhere. ---------- Post added at 04:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:55 PM ---------- Silver truck: 134F White truck: 122F Blue truck: 144F Wood deck: 159F Brownish Bricks on house: 130F Shingles on roof: 157F LineX in truck bed: 150F Grass: 99-105F Gallon of standing water: 110F White Gutters: 120F

Well there's an idea I cut out a hole and put a hinge on it so I can store stuff, I have yet to make a box underneath the door though, or a way to open the door. But I went ahead and painted it all up like it is. I found some really cheap thin but grippy rubber at menards yesterday. Forget how much you get but I could probably make 10 of them and it was only a few bucks. I actually have to grab it next time I run through, was just looking at all my options. Let me give the paint a few more hours then I will throw it back in the truck and you guys can see the halfway finished masterpiece.

I was just about to tell him that Also supposed to unscrew it all the way so the spring is relaxed. I might do this at apartment Monday. I have my whole toolbox in the living room Might take one out and see how easy it comes apart. I might have to video tape it since Mike's vids always make you look bad since he doesn't mess up or cuss or anything

Maybe this is your problem. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/802-Emoticons-not-showing-anyone-else-having-a-problem

I'd say the only way to get what you want is to get a smooth riding coil that will be weak, then get air bags to compensate. That's what all the chevy drivers have to do, why do you think they ride like cadillacs and hit the bottom outs when you hook up your jet ski trailer.