ISX

I think it does more damage than good. It might clean but you are sacrificing lube. When I say it might clean, I mean it won't do anything. The carbon is carbon, the injectors are made of steel, which is, carbon. So unless the chemical will dissolve the injector, it won't dissolve carbon deposits. I even bought injector cleaner to throw all the parts in and none of the carbon came off, it just got the mud and dust off. The only black stuff you saw was soot that had made it's way into places. I have *heard* that water injection cleans over time, never done it so not sure if this is true or not. Additives do break things loose a little but they can only do so much. So the only way to get them clean is to take them out. It's kind of like that spot on your car you can shoot a million psi on with the pressure washer, but it won't come off until you wipe it off with your finger.. Chemicals are the same way, you can make them more and more potent but it just won't do anything. All of the carbon on the injector is that *spot* you had to use your finger on, so you have to pull the injector and use something that works along with elbow grease.

So I need to do some more engineering on it. Used the buzzer I ripped out of the dash so you guys could hear when the wastegate is open. There are hills here so you can see me hold it to the floor and leave it there after the wastegate opened. Once it opens that line has to get below 23psi, so if I don't let off to under 23, the wastegate will remain open since the check valve can't exhaust pressure. Need to do something about that. The last minute I was feathering it to try to keep the wastegate shut. :banghead:

I need solid proof. Here is what I have come up with so far. Quart of 2 stroke and quart of all those chemicals that make up power service. Even with the addition of 2 stroke, you lose BTU. Working on a Lubricity chart now..

If you go here http://catalog.baldwinfilter.com/ you can cross reference cummins filter number 3931476, just put that in and it comes up with PF7751, even says for 97-99 cummins. Even says thats the one you need right here. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1994-Common-Fuel-Filter-Data

Thanks for joining! Can never have enough people around to learn from The more questions you ask, the more everyone learns

Well you gotta hit TDC dead on and the barring tool being like 2" diameter turning the huge flywheel means a huge ratio difference. It takes forever to do 1 revolution, but seems more accurate. Alternator works too. Just go slow and make sure its all perfect before you start it.

Right here! I might have to temporarily make the gauge light the wastegate light so you can see where it lights up and everything. It dumps it right at 35 and reseats at about 30. I did fall in love with the light on my way, a guy was doing 40 in a 60 and it was already dark out and I threw it in 4th and punched it and was trying to control the blazing speed when the light came on, made me realize I must really be flying http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=v5y8nMZIAEc

You just had to hit the thing I haven't got the tools to try out myself Here is a guide to it. http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1994/18-10-94a.htm Nevertheless, I did watch the guy time mine. You have to have a special socket to take the delivery valve thing off (the nut with a million points on it). Helps to have the flywheel engine barring tool also, takes longer per revolution but that makes it more precise. I have taken the P7100 off and put it back on, advancing it doesn't look to be much different, just some dial indicator work. Remember to always hold the engine when you are tightening any of those gear nuts. Let me know if you run into something

Would you just hold on! Damnnnn I was in the chatroom with GW, bailed on him to go do it, had to email him the link showing how good it worked, and now I gotta finish it lol. Then I gotta go back to college so the test run vid will be made on my way, so give me 3 hours ---------- Post added at 07:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:28 PM ---------- Well here is the pre-run end result. Hooked 40psi to the AFC line that goes to the wastegate and actuated it. I'm very interested to see when it actually actuates on my way up. I hit off the positive on the cigarette outlet (the one that turns off with the key) since it was on the upper part of the dash. Was kind of a pain to get the wire back down and out into the engine compartment. The negative is switched.. Figured if anything frayed I would rather it be the negative. Positive is only a 1ft run inside the dash so that should never be an issue. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=0LstvzKwBjE

I can't find anything on youtube showing how a boost elbow is. I just wonder how it compares to one ---------- Post added 08-01-2010 at 06:15 PM ---------- Previous post was 07-31-2010 at 06:39 PM ---------- I wanted to see when exactly the wastegate was opening so I put a light in the cab and a switch from an old truck that actuates the brake lights, onto the wastegate. I had some trouble coming up with the switch and Guesswho512 directed me to the ingenious brake switch idea. So here is what I got so far. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=wmhl3mih3cQ Thanks again Guesswho!

A few of you know I have been building a way to do boost without messing with a boost elbow. I really want to see a video of how the elbow acts but I got my setup done now so you all can see how ate up it is If I did it again I would just use those quick lock hose things rather than the uh "configuration" I have. So the boost hits the relief valve, the relief valve opens at 35, and wastegate opens. After boost pressure goes down, pressure in wastegate side of the line relieves through the check valve. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Modified%20Pics/Boost.jpg I don't have any 5 mile long hills around here and as a result I was just hitting 35 really fast and couldn't really tell how it was doing. So I put a load on it Works just as I thought, doesn't open wastegate til it hits 35. EGT's are also much more controllable/lower. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=J9Y34LnIvrU

Now you got me wondering. I swear mine can't be 60lbs. I throw mine around like nothing. I got the scale back at apartment so have to find a jack to take with me.

I don't really understand why anyone would boycott BP. They are rich but they have used it to find oil where many companies won't try to find it. They hit a snag and everyone thinks they are the new Hitler. The way I see it, they should get over it and keep moving forward. Just because they had one problem doesn't mean it's the end of the world. Everyone's VP44 goes out mysteriously and the stock lift pumps go out as often as the sun goes up, so maybe I should boycott VP44 trucks... You hit a rock, you go over it, you move on.

Thanks for the review! :thumbup2:As for youtube things, just copy the link, then when you reply on here, there is a filmstrip icon that you click on above the part you type everything, click it and paste the link and hit ok. That will embed the video into the post.

Only thing I can think of is just an issue with the 1997+ F150's. They would vibrate when going into O/D, not sure what it was doing but every single f150 auto of that style does it. I think we need more details on this jumping though. I could say my dodge is jumping and diagnose it as a death wobble..

This wasn't even something that had to do with free time Just had an accident that I ignored and watched it blow up lol.

The injectors are computer controlled individually. The transmissions are different. Axle ratios are 3.73 and 4.10 I think, rather than 3.55 and 4.10. Body is different, interior is different. Engines have all been the same basic block but with different fuel systems. The block might change a little through the years but not much. What specifically do you want to know? There are many obvious changes but I don't know if you want more details on how common rail works or what.

But now you know the intake tube is new! Ok I won't ask for any more. Looks easy enough to work on though.Thanks for the pics!

Oh, yeah I know how that goes. Don't worry about it then.

I want to make a spreadsheet of all that too, but factor in RPM. IMHO, I think 1500-1600RPM is most efficient, equating to 50-55mph. This is speaking in a real world sense. 1300-1400RPM might be better, but you get to any hill and now you are lugging it and the turbo is well below spool speed and you can watch your fuel shoot out the exhaust. With that in mind, the only way to really factor it is to get some solid data on just how much more fuel it takes to do 50mph in 4th gear than in 5th. In theory it would be the same, but having to turn the engine more RPM does cost something. Just wondering how to figure it.

The only idea I had was putting on in pliers and lighting it up and throwing it in a fire to start it Wonder how many BTU an average pecan has.. hmmm

Your all determined to test my limits with excel I'll see what I can do. Problem is making it universal. It's easy to do some simple math and stuff that is universal but when you get into formulas that do a bunch of things automatically that are pretty "out there" like bringing information to your attention if it is a certain number.. gets pretty sketchy on if it will work with openoffice and probably won't work with google docs at all. But, it is a challenge. I will try and do something with fuel logs. I don't think it can have a graph since I can't get it to work on Mike's log the way he wanted it set up, I can't really do anything with graphs. I know it wouldn't be universal if I did graphs. Can you guys live without them? If you can't, I will have to go back to separate files and make it all work. Let me know which way you want it.

I just googled USA regions, there was many different ways it was split up but that one looked the best. There will always be controversy on any way it is categorized, can't avoid it. If you have a better way of doing it though, post up a map sectioned off for us to consider :hyper:I started with bigger regions (4 or 5) but that ended up making the top and bottom states very far away, decided this one was best as it would make everyone in any region within a tank of fuel away.

You realize the guys doing 55 passed you while you were pulled over I used to drive like that all the time, but if you can force yourself to keep it under 65 or even 60 for a while, you will start to love it. Then when you hit the interstate, just doing 70 will seem like 80+. You also are able to have mileage numbers to brag about. I know you are 4x4 DRW but 20 is really not that hard. I still got over 20 on a tank with part of it racing people, even driving 100 for half an hour, but driving slow on the rest of the tank averaged it back out. I stopped racing people and doing anything like that and I don't even have to think I got under 20 because its pretty impossible when you drive like me. Oh and I make up the cost of a ticket when I do drive fast for the money I save when I drive slow, though I've never got a ticket

I am going to call google docs and kick their ___! AHID64, that is some good info. I have the basic parts of it but there are some things I like about yours that I don't have. Think I will integrate the things about yours into mine so it keeps it understandable. I had to stare at yours a while Very nice work though! I didn't even think of 4 lo. ---------- Post added at 06:35 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:41 AM ---------- There you go Guesswho. Got it all fixed up in post #1.