ISX

Yes, calibrated lungs help I was at the store today and eyeing all of the push in connectors with all the hard plastic line... Thinking that would be the hot setup. Let me save some more pennies up and maybe one day I will do it. These:

I was going to tear mine apart but read about getting everything aligned and it all having to be perfect and all this and figured it was no job I should be taking on. We took them apart as far as you have in class but I still figured there was something in it I would mess up. Not sure mine need a cleaning or not, would think they would have all the miles but I don't have any misfiring issues. If you can convince me that as far as you went with those doesn't have to be ten thousandths of an inch accurate, I might take all mine apart. If it's 3 thousands, well, I can hold that

They shouldn't leak at all. I can go back to mine days later after leaving it on head vents, and it will still be on head vents before the engine even starts. You sure it's the check valve leaking and not something else?

NAPA. I would think any auto place would have them. Just tell them you want some compression clamps. Not sure if thats what they are called but sounds good They come in all different sizes, you can see the red one is bigger than the silver ones, so make sure you get the right ones. I think the check valve is what really did it. I didn't replace any lines, just some of the fittings and I think the vacuum pump has times when it becomes flakey, so the check valve ensures that the HVAC or cruise control doesn't know the difference. Either way, the clamps or the check valve solved all of my vacuum issues.

My compressor stays on constantly too. When I am idling the rpm drops maybe 25-50 and I can sit there forever and it never jumps back up. Not sure why it's not like other vehicles that cycle them. Maybe the compressor clutch lasts longer leaving it engaged the entire duration of using the A/C

I can see where you get that lol. Basically the same thing as what I put in . I always get in the truck and have to remember to not put things on the center console since they will just slide off, now I won't have that problem, and everything will be *easily* reachable. I think I am going to paint it, square tube the perimeter, rubberize the top, and be done with it for now, this weekend. Tired of just staring at it thinking of ideas. You guys gave me some good ideas but I have to think about how to make them look like how I want. The only drawback I can see is having to lean down to write on something. That was the only thing I liked about the stock console, though it could have been more solid for writing on. So I might have to come up with something for that. Welding on a second level thats half as long and is over the back half sounds like a very good idea. Let me work on a plan.

Yeah right

That previous post was where I got the idea for the thing I had in green, which clearly shows the I6 advantage. I have been trying to figure out other means of proving it statistically but have been at a loss in finding formulas.

I kicked the bin idea around. Still tossing lol. My truck is completely packed with crap and not sure I want another excuse to load it with more. But I will keep thinking, be nice to have a place to put papers, not sure I want it there though. Why don't our seats have pocketss on the back like fords and chevys! Diamond plate is a little too industrial for me. Planning on just painting it then getting some kind of rubber mat that nothing will slide on to put on it. Cup holder in back, hmm. Not sure that will work into the design. I *thought* about welding on another level for maybe the back half of the plate, maybe 8" higher than where the current plate is. Put some cup holders there maybe.. I am thinking of how to incorporate that temp gauge I just got, into it. None of my other gauges have long enough probes to work. If you only knew how I had the gauge mounted at apartment

I swear I am posting too many new threads! Anyhow, I took my seats and everything out to take out the dash and got lazy with the center console. It hasn't been in place for 2 weeks now. I slid it back in place today and absolutely hated it. I didn't realize how much easier and free my right arm was without that thing there. So I video taped what I have made so far. I need some ideas on what else I should add. I want to hear any and all ideas! I don't care what it is, I want this thing to be awesome when I am done. I don't care for an armrest part of it anymore, you go without it so long and don't even notice it, and the "open-ness" is sooo damn nice. So yeah, tell me what you think.

Hmm, well let me try this ate up setup first since I have stuff do it everywhere and think it will be kinda neat. If it doesn't work out, you've convinced me on the boost elbow thing. What is "DP"?

How about this?

An elbow seems to just slow a wastegate down from opening, but doesn't it still end up fully open eventually because it's not like it regulates pressure, but just slows it. A pressure regulator would theoretically work, but would still be giving the wastegate pressure as it builds up to 35 The basic thing in all of it is I just don't want the wastegate open, at all, until I hit 35. In my opinion, I want to be building as much *useable* boost as possible, before finally hitting the limit. I don't want the wastegate opening because it takes away flow and prevents me from seeing optimal boost pressure sooner, and I can only hit 30 with the wastegate working like it is now. However, I might be wrong, I am just guessing how the elbow works, never seen one, never messed with one. From what I understand, you turn the screw out and that lets air flow into the wastegate hose easier and so it opens sooner. If you tighten the screw, flow is harder so you have time to see high PSI, but can watch the pressure slowly drop as the wastegate opens because the line will see that pressure eventually no matter how much you try to restrict it (unless it's completely blocked of course). Am I thinking of this correctly? ---------- Post added at 11:49 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:32 AM ---------- Ok now I see. What you are adjusting is the amount of air it bleeds out into the atmosphere, just like a pop off valve. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm, yeah I still would rather it leave the wastegate completely shut until 35. Let me try my crazy idea first. Think I have most of the parts I need laying around.

Here is what I am thinking. Have to click on it and then click the pic so it goes to full size. Don't think you can see it very good on here if I let it resize it. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Charts/IMG_1348.JPG So what what have here.. 1. Boost builds up to 35psi, wastegate stays shut because relief valve has not opened yet. 2. Relief valve opens once it hits 35psi, wastegate opens full since it is still calibrated for 23psi. 3. Boost drops to 30psi, maybe a little less since with wastegate open I can still hit 30. 4. Pressure is below threshold and relief valve closes, but is forced close because of the contained pressure in the wastegate line. 5. Contained pressure flows out the auxiliary line through the check valve, through port 2 where it will see less than 35psi and the relief valve will then not have 35psi behind it and will work next time I get above 35psi. 6. Check valve prevents wastegate from seeing any pressure at all that would otherwise backflow through port 2. This way I can get max flow out of the engine, all to the turbine up until the threshold point, so I can run 23-35psi at a lower throttle position since I won't be working against the wastegate, power will rise, EGT's will lower, mileage will increase, emissions will decrease, acceleration will increase, flow will increase, hmm what other BS can I think of. But yeah, that's the plan of action. The valves I am finding are variable, as in 0.5-60psi variable, so it is highly customizable. What do you guys think? ?

If the valve is burnt then it will be letting compression through. Test the compression on all of them until you find the one with little compression and readjust the valves on that one. I don't really see how you could have burnt a valve up in 120k though. It's possible but I didn't think it was very common. I would just check compression and all that first. You can adjust the intake and exhaust for the one with low compression (if one happens to even have low compression) by one simple method.Method:Take the firing order, and cut it right down the middle. 153-624 now put the 624 under the 153.153624Now, to adjust the intake and exhaust on each cylinder, you watch the piston number above or below the one you are wanting to adjust. So if I want to adjust the valves on #6, I would watch #1, if I wanted to do #1, I watch #6... What you are watching is for the piston to just start to open the intake valve. 1 and 6 are running mates, same with 5 and 2, 3 and 4. So when one of them is on the intake stroke, the other is on the power stroke and both valves will be shut and allow you to do both valves on, say piston #1 when #6 is on power stroke. They will also be very close to TDC. But that method will allow you to do both valves instead of one, crank 360, then the other.Hmm, that was a little confusing so let me just give you an example. I want to adjust #5. So I would bar the engine over until it's running mate #2, just starts to open the intake valve, and I mean once you see any movement at all in the intake valve, stop and you can adjust #5. You know when the intake valve is about to open because the exhaust valve is closing (exhaust stroke), and since intake stroke is next, the intake valve will open when the exhaust valve is closing..

Yeah but I am trying to figure out exactly what it is about an I6 that gives it the edge. I want statistical proof! I am almost to the point of buying an engine engineering book or something.

I just looked at every truck on ebay, none of them are off center Maybe you and the machinist backed into each other

Clutch Write Up.

After looking at the many many options and things out there, I think I have figured out a way to make it do what I want. If it doesn't work, I will let you know AH64ID Give me a week and we'll see what happens with my design.

I can cope with tedious adjusting, I just want the wastegate to stay shut until I finally do hit 35. I think I could be 5psi higher when above 23psi wastegate if it stayed shut since I will have full flow going to the turbine rather than half of it being dumped. I would like to have more boost to control EGT's better but obviously don't want to go over 35. I am just thinking the boost elbow will make it to where I am at 30psi instead of 25 so the EGT will be lower and I will have a little more power. ---------- Post added at 11:17 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:04 AM ---------- Hmm, more I read about it the more evident it is that it just slows the rate the wastegate opens, not so much limiting max psi. Tell me if I am wrong, but I think the elbow reduces the air flow to the wastegate and therefore it just slowly builds enough pressure to open the wastegate? So it doesn't limit the pressure at all, it will eventually still open at 23psi, but will take longer depending on the adjustment screw, allowing me to hit whatever psi and then watching it dwindle back down to the 30psi I got with the wastegate hooked up. Am I right? If that's the case then it's not what I want. I want it to go to 35psi and stop. Might have to make some kinda electric solenoid in the wastegate line allowing pressure in to open it when I hit that 35psi. Wait a minute, don't they make some kind of blow off valve? Like an air compressor has them they blow off at 200psi or something and reseat at 175 maybe, do they make something like that for 35psi blow off to allow pressure into the wastegate when it sees 35, then reseating when it gets to 30 maybe? Probably be really hard to find one for what I want. Maybe I will make one, or I could just figure out how to adjust the wastegate opening pressure. So I just found out about wastegate and it seems if you adjust it to open at 30psi, it will only be open 50% at 40psi because the rod length is too short. I might have to play with this and see what happens. I really would rather it stay completely shut until 35psi though. No need to have wasted pressure, until it becomes unsafe anyways.

After clamping my wastegate and seeing how much quicker it goes over 20psi, I think I want to try a boost fooler so I can get up to 35psi quick but not go over 35. Anyone want to sell me one or know where the cheapest one is? I found one on ebay for $16.50. Figured I would see if any vendors sell them.

I could do that, but, how do I know how many parts there are on a duramax and powerstroke? How do I get a price on the parts when there will always be a place cheaper? How do I get a service quote when they will be all around on price too? If there was a solid way to do it then I could, but all of those factors are so variable that you can't really chart them and say, OK the duramax costs the most.. If you have an idea of how to do it then let me know and I will get a spreadsheet going

I'd say you need to find a tranny shop. If the clutch works, that just leaves the transmission which you say sounds like its full of bolts chinging around. I don't know what happened, but I would have someone tear into it to see what the deal is. Sure doesn't sound good.

No clue why both of yours are like that. Mine is dead nuts centered. Is the mount angled or something or is the receiver just welded an inch past center?

Nope, got kicked off the forum and dismembered before I could even see the posts. I got all the emails saying I had a million posts to it but the thread is gone, and I got kicked. No clue what I did wrong. I have posted on a few engineering ones before and haven't got anywhere. I might have to go to the bookstore and find those 1000 page engine design books or something. Can't believe how hard this is becoming.