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So now we got proof that better wiring works! Someone on here posted a really good guide on polishing up the headlight lens. I think the lens thing, the wiring, and doing that mod with the dims and brights would yield some big results. I was feeling the headlight though and it gets pretty hot with both elements on, not sure if it is getting too hot.

I was searching yesterday and I came to that exact page. Basically the same thing everyone else does only in a kit. That's about the only way to make it work, throw in relays. I just wonder how much brighter they would be. I'll have to get some before and after of my headlights on whenever I decide to do it.

Nice setup! I have never built one. Needs to start leaking on me first

That does sound like paradise. Think we had the same weather here. So who had the bigger gun?

You mean with him still to the floor you can catch up to him on top end? That's incredible! All you hear is the V8's having all this top end yet in my 2 videos and your experience, we are catching up to them and leaving them behind on the top end. I just think that is hilarious What year was this dmax? My old boss got a then new 2008 allison 6spd and we went from about 15-40mph and I was able to walk very slowly away from him. Ah yes, the days when I had money to blow on fuel. Just doing that 75-95 video I was thinking I was flying even at 75, tells you how long I have been driving under 60 Flman, I would trade you for that benz! I bet I could get 30mpg out of it. You should see the line of cars behind me while I drive

Today I went ahead and did this mod ( http://www.midwestdieselconnection.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1812 ) since I traced it all out and didn't see any risk to it. Well since the lights are hooked up in parallel, they see the same voltage. I was curious as to how much they pulled the voltage down, if any and was quite surprised. The headlights have 3 wires going to them and they contain 2 elements in each one. One for dim and one for brights. The 3 wires are for ground, dim, and brights. So I took the connector off of one headlight and started the truck and measured between the ground and dim terminals, then from the ground to bright terminals. I then measured the bright and dim terminals but used the engine block for a ground (good ground). Both elements were on on the one headlight that I didn't unhook (because I modded it to make both elements turn on when the brights are on) and I got my measurements off the other side that I disconnected the light from. As you can see, the wiring is way too small. The ground is also not the greatest. Thing is, that was just one headlight. I know it was both elements so it might as well be considered 2 headlights. The wires are still way too small, that is almost a 1 volt drop with the brights on. When I turned the brights off so it was just the dim element of one headlight, I was still 0.7 V under battery voltage. I am going to think up something creative to fix it.

I read about a mod you can do to fix that issue really easily. Hmm, better do it while it's dark. Give me a half hour. --- Update to the previous post... Alright nevermind. That mod is still in the "it works but not sure if its dangerous" stage lol. I will figure out how it works tomorrow and see if it really poses a hazard to anything or not.

He posted his question to the wrong place so I will post what he put so he might have some responses when he gets back.2002 2500 cummins 4x4 starts and runs good says no bus and overhead says ccd truck goes in limp mode solutions???

Ah yes! I will throw it in the downloads section now.

Now I see the graph for particulate matter hasn't changed until the last few years. Nox has though. I have been trying to figure out why the 24V NOX was 3.8 and mine was 4.8 yet the particulate matter on a 24V is 0.1 while mine is 0.09. Interesting stuff.Good find Elshadow!

I don't see any reason why he couldn't lean into the corners and overinflate the tires so they would be stiffer You guys notice those 6.7's only run 20psi boost? The gauge on the very left of the 4 pods is the boost gauge and I think all it has is a 0 and a 4 and since it stays in the middle I think that equates to 20psi. Figured they would be running more by now with all the fancy turbos.

I think they might actually end up putting out too much pressure. I don't think the VP44 can withstand much more than 20psi, which 1 pump should be able to do that much. So you would have to put some sort of overflow valve in the line before it reaches the VP44 in order to limit it to 20psi. Sounds like doing that would yield you a very good setup, though costly. You must also make sure they are the same size pump, running different size pumps in parallel is seldom a good idea because the larger pump can throttle the smaller pump causing it to run too far off of its BEP (best efficiency point.) This can cause shaft deflection and possible premature bearing and seal failure.So now they both have to be Airdog 150's or the like so that the flow will remain between 10-20psi should one of the pumps fail. I assume you would want that kind of fall-back rather than having 2 smaller pumps that could not flow enough should one fail.

Finally got the 0-80mph one put together. Dang 5spd So from what I could see, it would be the same as always. They catch up every time I push in the clutch, and I pull away when I engage it. At least we both hit 80 at the same time

Last night I ended up watching some videos on youtube of the new 6.7 Scorpion powerstroke. Most if not all were acceleration videos showing how fast it is. My brother even came to me saying it would beat my truck after he rode in one. So I found a video that showed "when you are passing someone" going from 75-95, I went out and video taped my truck in the exact same conditions. We both were holding steady at 75 then floored it. I spent half an hour getting the videos synced perfectly since he did lag for a second after saying go, I wanted it to be fair so I synced them based on when the speedos started moving. I never care to race or anything, I just thought it would be a neat comparison vid. There are a lot of 0-? vids of the 6.7 and I am going to sync one of them to one of my old acceleration videos. I was trying to get it split screened but I think you can see it just as good this way. I am still trying to figure out the split screened way.

Yeah your well within boost pressure but your fuel pressure needs some work. There are 3 pages of information on this thread that should help you form an opinion on the pressure thing. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1656-VP44-Write-Up-Minimum-pressure-suggested...

You rolled your truck on it's side to take a pic?

AMSOIL Synthetic Diesel & Marine Motor Oil SAE 15W-40That oil is 20k miles old too

Guess I never watched it on here, that is horrible playback lol. Yeah the raw file is 1000x better. I will have to see one of these dirtier valvetrains.

Nope, thats 330k miles of wear The oil comes out of the hole on top. Heres a pic of it without the engine running.

Yeah it's the video. I don't think the frame rate is high enough. My camera is 60fps but youtube might scale it back to something lower. I notice the raw footage doesn't seem to have the weird pattern.

Figure most of you have already seen something like this but what the heck. The thing I am pointing at is the hole on the top of the rocker that shoots out oil, then I am tracing it down showing how the oil flows. It's all at about 650RPM, not sure what it was at when I revved it up, 1200 maybe. I know I know, I have blowby

Dannng! You cook, you sew, you make a dash that looks better than stock, what can't you do! I want to see this thing finished

Ah yes. So the only limit is fuel pressure or getting too much boost that the turbo can't handle. When you step on it and are getting up there in boost, eventually the stock lift pump will not be able to hold 10psi, that is when you know you have hit your limit. Keep an eye on EGT's too.Now I can reread my post and understand you 24v'ers Thanks AH64

I think he means turbo pressure. The HX35 is good up to 35psi, and so is your engine. Past that it becomes a heat generator and the turbo can't handle much more than 35 before it grenades. Getting your engine to 35psi is the part you need a lot of fuel for. You must have a chip because it will not get very far stock. The wastegate opens around 18-23psi which keeps you from going any higher. If you have enough fuel, you can outflow the wastegate, but most people just get boost elbows.

I can hardly tell a difference on mine. The black stuff I can but my dash is that tan/brown stuff that I could go down a dirt road with and not tell a difference.