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Maybe, but it didn't happen and I have the video now and I probably won't do it again since the only reason I did do it was for the video.

Lots of info to go around here. Asking questions keeps the info flowing. I never even knew what controlled the blinkers before today. Questions make a lot of us have to look stuff up that we might have not really paid attention to, so it helps everyone. :thumbup2:At least the beast is back up and running

I think I put 30-40k on it the first year I had it. Problem is I drove so many places that now I would rather just have someone else drive. I will work on the truck and everything but I want a chauffeur I'll drive through the big cities, but they can drive everywhere else.

I know we got most of our stuff from Fastenal.

You are on the right track but you also have to remember that it is a closed loop system. How will the fuel drain back when there is no air to replace the fuel in the lines? It would be one thing if the draw straw in the tank was exposed to air, then it would all drain back to an extent but not the case if it is always submerged. Somewhere it is getting air into it. When you park uphill, the fuel in the engine is above the tank so gravity can do what it does best. The overflow valves could not be seating fully or a return line is letting in air.

This might help you out.

I am not entirely sure what you have. You still have the stock engine fan on it right? This tranny cooler is some separate radiator thing with a little fan on it? If it is a little separate thing with a fan on it I would leave the thermostat hooked up. It might somehow get hot when you don't expect it to and the thermostat would keep you covered there. I would go direct to battery with it.

There are actually 2 fuses. One for the timer control and one for the lights themselves. There is a fuse for the horn/parking lights in the fuse box that is in the engine compartment on the drivers side. As for the turn signal relay..

The P1698 means it isn't getting anything out of the CCD. You might check all the connections that go to that battery if it was the drivers side with the hundred little red wires going to that positive terminal, making sure they are all making good contact. It also looks like you have a 10 amp fuse in the drivers side fuse block on the side of the dash that ties into it all. Might check that too.

Dead links..

http://dodgeram.org/tech/mods/electric/headlight.htm Second half of that page shows you how.

I searched around and have been seeing good results from it. I wonder if it has any downfall on carb gassers since the 2 stroke won't exactly turn to vapor like gas does. I don't see any issue with direct injected gassers. Even you said it is quieter. You should see if it increases mpg any..

$100/55 Gal = $1.81/Gal Geeeez you were right on AH64 I'll just let you guys mess with it if you want. Edit the stuff in orange, password to unlock is dodge. Red Vs Clear Diesel.xls

So you have to find a new cover or weld that one. All you really need to take off is the fan and fan shroud. Damper also comes off. I think the KDP might have came out and hit the cover and cracked it or something. It's an hour job. If you weld it up, the seals and everything might cost you $50 tops. If they want $2700 tell them to rebuild the engine before you pay

It's actually more savings than that. I just used the prices of red and clear here. Shows how much you save with one fillup, 10 fillups, and how long it would take to offset the cost of a ticket based on $1000 or $100 per gallon.

I should be able to get it pretty accurate. If you think about it, it kinda does the same thing as a dyno. If it takes more fuel then it is obviously producing less power and vice versa.

Alright I got some ideas. To keep everything equal I just drain some of the fuel out of my tank and use it. Show idle before and after adding cetane booster. I will also get some results on going the same route same pump same shutoff point at the same speed before and after adding cetane booster and see if I have any mileage difference. If we can't show how it works, we can surely show the effects it has on efficiency. I think I might even just run a gallon jug so I can see how much it used instead of with some cheesy pump shutoff. Then I can have 3 gallons, one with cetane boost, one with 2 stroke, and one normal. You think that will work? Any other ideas? --- Update to the previous post... Yes cetane makes it easier to start. It was night and day difference between regular and that B20 in the winter. So we can prove that much. I want to get other tests in there. I know mike has a dyno run with and without 2 stroke but he shoulda got a cetane booster run also.

Alright well I have a better idea. Tell me what I need to do in order to show how cetane works. I don't do things with text I do them with videos, things people can see. I can go on all day about stuff from sources but a lot of people don't understand it, that is why I do videos of this, so they can see what high and low cetane does. So if the way I showed it is not showing how cetane works, then what can I do to show everyone how it works. Every additive boasts raising cetane, 2 stroke oil lowers cetane, what exactly does it do! It starts better on higher cetane, yes, but after it starts, then what does cetane pertain to? I want to show it with a video not something a book says. Idling shows how efficient it is burning and the cetane number is one of the factors of efficiency. If the cetane is too high or too low, it will not be efficient. I wanted the fuel rate to be the same so what better way than idle speed. Maybe I will get some cetane booster and run a heavy dose to show what happens. Just let me know what I need to do and I will do it

Do you have an alternator or did it fall off?

Can you even get your housing off with all that crap in the way?

Cleaning it actually made it have more of that "housing off (supercharger)" sound. The housing is on just with a snap ring..

I just had to try taking the whole housing off and hearing it. No boost when you do that of course, but you can't tell me that isn't the neatest thing you ever heard! Wish I could run like that all the time You also see why a turbo is needed. I don't have an AFC so there is no preboost fueling on mine, I floor it and it has fuel fuel. I don't have enough air (no boost) so it is extremely rich and you get black smoke. The EGT's also soar. If the AFC was still in, it would never go to full fuel, the EGT would never soar, it would be a complete dog. I drove a guys 12V who had a messed up AFC (wouldn't go to full fuel) and he actually had been pulling trailers with it like that Also shown is the amount of time it takes to stop spinning after shutdown. That is why you let the turbo spool down before shutting down because it has no oil pressure when the engine is off so you want to make it have to spool for the shortest amount of time possible.

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1788-A-C-Evaporator-amp-Heater-core-write-up!?highlight=heater+core There it is

Thats my truck, just showing where the wire is for him. Mine works fine even though the wire looks like that

I wouldn't think they would be related but it does have some pretty obvious signs that it is doesn't it. The "IOD" fuse controls all the stuff that turned off, see if it is blown. Once you fix that let us know if the converter starts messing up again.