ISX

Those pics are awesome! I have never seen a "carved" exit like Saltillo exit, just incredible Those hills were more like cliffs haven't seen much of that either. Don't have too much fun!

Yeah that was idea #2. Probably the most plausible since, if you find the right size, it will be guaranteed to work.

No clearance, I had electrical tape over it and it just barely cleared. Would have to be in between those 2 things rather than outside them.

Probably a lot easier to get the new stuff going in summer rather than any other time of year. Doubt they would want to chance all their new tooling on winter roads either. All I can think of anyways

Well it's true! The P7100 trucks are the only one that aren't dynamic so when you say you love yours for being dynamic, your saying the P7100 trucks suck since they aren't. But I see no proof of this at all, everything in my long post proves that dynamic is not even worth mentioning. If you can make a point of it being an advantage other than what guesswho exclaimed, then I will gladly listen. I do think dynamic might allow you to build power at all RPM's more effectively, but I have no problem getting sent back into the seat at any RPM above 1600 in which the turbo lights. Maybe on a dyno you could see a flatter curve than me, but in real world scenarios, I'm not seeing it.

The 24 and 12 both have their completely different downfalls. The only difference is the 24v downfalls cost you more money. I plan on moving to colorado when I am done with college and seeing as how I plan on living in a remote location that will probably include places I can't go through with my 2wd in winter, I need a 4wd for it. I don't care how much preventative modifications I have to do to it, I would buy a 24v over a 12v for my winter uses in a heartbeat. They are just pure cadillac compared to mine. They all sound the same, they all idle the same, they all go the same speed (if same specs of course). I can put up with mine and do everything manually and have one foot on the brake clutch and fuel at the same time (seeing as how it idles so low it will die or just sound horrible when engine is still 0F, so taking off from a stoplight I have to do this, if I idle it up, how will I lug it to get through the snow, not like I have a 4wd lo....) Oh and then theres the cup holder........... I loved my IDI. It took 2 minutes of cranking to start, had as much power as the moped passing me, and was the best driving thing I have ever driven. I would leave it in 4wd all winter, even at highway speeds and there was absolutely no vibration when doing it. It was so synced that I could pop it in and out of 4wd at any speed I wanted. 10mpg tends to get expensive when diesel was $5/gal Otherwise I would have kept driving it. Right now the engine is pulled and awaiting further confirmation when I decide to put a cummins in it or something.

SOBBBBB! I wish I had read that sooner! Woulda clued me in to calculate the last thing I did on here, first. Nevertheless, I calculated and calculated trying to find just what in the world gives the cummins the edge. Finally found it, in green. I figured out how much volume there was at any given point in time, being allocated to solely a "power stroke". This also explains why it's harder to turn since there is that much volume also being compressed. If you all want to mess with it for yourselves this excel works in any program, no fancy formulas Eh, so I thought the 5.9 was on top at first, had calculations screwed up. At least it is consistent with my 7.3 being very luggable, and my brothers 6.0 being junk down low. BUT, we are back on top by farrr with the 6.7. I just did the ford 300 I6, its 66.69, or only 1.37 short of the 6.0 powerstroke.xls

I need to learn more on this because it's driving me crazy. In one hand you have a V8 having 2 more cylinders which equates to 2 more power strokes going per revolution. On the other hand you have 2 cylinders less yet having a long stroke making each power stroke longer. This is all on the topic of "Lugability", so obviously the I6 wins down low, but I'm just wondering why. What is it about a longer stroke makes it better than having 2 more power strokes!?

Alright this is getting old. I am not going to say you are wrong or anything but the only way I see this as being true is in THEORY. When I went from 13.5 to 16* timing, it clacked more, was a bit peppier, big whoop, mileage didn't seem to change much if at all, and lets remember I DON'T see under 20mpg, EVER, in fact, I have yet to see under 21mpg. Yes, it does get cold here, and my statistics still hold in 0F weather. Now this is without a trailer, but also held with 2 engine blocks in the back all winter.. So, although the VP44 has dynamic timing (which Taz's truck and every 1st gen ALSO have), I don't see it as much of an advantage. I have cold start videos in 2F (before I advanced my timing) showing my truck firing up instantly. So you might have an advantage there, but seeing as how I hardly noticed any mileage difference when advancing mine, I don't really see why I couldn't put my timing back to stock and start as good as yours and still never get under 21mpg. You said in a different post that excellent is over 20mpg, and normal is 16-18, I get 16-18 pulling that enclosed trailer I had a pic of. I'm not trying to be mean but you always brag about dynamic timing and I see no proof that it is really that big a deal. It theoretically runs better than mine would lower in the RPM's (since I advanced mine...) but either way my timing was, I still couldn't drop under 21. Maybe yours has more power throughout the RPM's, maybe it runs better, but I still get from point A to B as fast as you do using as much if not less fuel. Now, what I think you SHOULD be bragging about is having sensors to tell you whats wrong, being able to change all your timing and fueling parameters from the EDGE or whatever chip you have, being able to control idle, being able to high idle, being able to 3cyl idle, and all the other things that are automatic. I have nothing against 24v's, you would think I would after the entire 24v forum is about fuel pumps and APPS and other things that I don't have to worry about, but you guy's have found fixes for it well maybe not the VP but I do believe religiously doing the 2 stroke thing would keep everything in good shape. I also absolutely love the chip features and everything you can change and the idling is all automatic, you don't realize how much I have to mess with my throttle cable/idle control to keep it where I want it, it's a PITA. I hate seeing all your high idle and 3cyl idle stuff that I don't have also! Frankly, I woulda swapped JOHNFAK trucks even when his trans was crapping out. The automatic things the computer does on them is just incredible.

Your all just jealous since you don't have a cupholder that is such a work of fine art! Still can't figure what's so funny, the thing is only usable if you take that bottom piece out, it snaps right back in. Actually that movie is cut in half, the other half was me putting the thing back in and me getting mad at it and.. Putting it back in is kinda like the snap ring on the silencer ring, sometimes it goes back in with 2 seconds, sometimes it takes 10 min, though it was always 2 seconds normally so I think I was just having a bad day

You know, I could get technical here and say a V8 will lug better than any I6 purely because it has 2 more cylinders, so to make things drastic, it would be the same as lugging a single cylinder and a V16, the V16 has so many power strokes going per revolution that it can idle very very low. I believe with these big 3, it all comes down to displacement. My ford had wonderful torque down low, but would fall on it's face up high. It was a 7.3. I haven't driven a 99-02 7.3 but I know everyone loves them and I am just wondering how torquey they are down low. I am actually thinking this was more just due to having more power strokes per revolution. It might have ran a little smoother down low because of it, but I'm not saying it made more power than a cummins down low. Obviously the huge stroke of the cummins makes the big torque numbers. Alright I'm thinking about this too much :lol:I did have the ISX at school holding its 800RPM idle speed using just 2 injectors though So maybe rotating mass of an I6 has something to do with it all too. I know a V8 has more friction since there are more pistons so maybe the more power strokes just cancels out the friction so it isn't a complete POS. Need more classes!

That truck is simply incredible! I love everything about it! :drool:As for the cup holders, I made a movie on them for those who might not know what these pieces of crap look like that make them such crap.

Only time will tell. People were saying the same thing after seeing the 6.0 brochure That 6.7 has 4 pushrods and rockers PER cylinder. Be interesting to see the service manual for that thing.

EXACTLY what I was going to ask. Be better off just bolting something to the front of the console. Oh and I meant the adjustment screw making a difference on my truck was in my head. I thought my steering was better because I adjusted it but lately it has become apparent that I still have the same amount of play as before. You do something to make it better and start thinking it HAS to be better! So then you drive with an illusion that it's better, even though it's not. Guesswho is on to something with this steering brace and I want to see what input he comes back with. Same thing happens to me when I get in mom's car. Steering is so tight I have no room to do anything. In my truck I can lean over and open the glove box, dragging the steering wheel with me and the truck will still be going straight ---------- Post added at 11:02 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:21 AM ---------- So I went out and stared at my cup holder for a while, I never drink in my truck so I never cared to mess with it but because you mentioned it I just had to find a solution. So here's what I have come up with. Get some vel cro tape, cut a little strip of it and stick it at the bottom of the cup holder, find a cup or something capable of holding a can but not tall enough to where you can't grab the can obviously, and put the other strip on the bottom of it. Stick it in get your redbull can and put it in and viola. If you need to shut cupholder, take cup out, hence the velcro thing. Fix #2. Why does the cup fall out? Because the sides of the cupholder are cut out! So I put some tape across the sides so now the cup has no where to fall. I am not sure that fix will work very well but is better than before. Need something stronger than tape but has to be thin because the outside slides into the dash. Duck tape might be better than the electrical tape I used Fix #3. Hmmmm

Holy crap! You coulda showed me those sooner Hmm I wonder if I could just bolt mine up there, it's just a 3 gauge pod mount. I would have to look at all the wires though. What to do what to do

You got a pic?

So I did some digging around to try and round up the specs on the big 3 and was amazed to learn that there is no clear winner at all. Cummins seemed to have it's hayday with the 1st gen's, then powerstroke came on with the 99-02 powerstrokes, now dmax seems to be taking the lead. Now I am not talking reliability or anything, just power specs. I was barely able to come up with the 6.2/6.5 specs, I actually guessed on those a bit from the 983 different ratings I was seeing on 244 different forums. I used all the maximum power specs with all 3, so I used the HO 6spd specs for the 24V.. and ford didn't have a diesel in 1998, thats why theres a break in the line..

Yeah I'm going to have to do something, the grinding is getting better but I am thinking it's more that it's eating whatever is making the noise away. I'm going to order some redline stuff one of these days and see how that stuff works. I have been reading a lot about amsoil and the nv4500 and it's interesting just how many people say it isn't that good in the 5spd, of course theres those who say it's really good in them too, but I would rather try out redline since I have yet to see any people at all say it didn't work well. I like amsoils stuff but I use what works and this stuff just makes you cringe when it's doing it's grinding thing.

Whats wrong with the cup holders!! JK, they are junk Only thing that might help is get a thick can cooler to stick the cans in so it might actually touch the sides of the cup holder. I tightened that screw way up on mine and it seemed to work but now I am thinking it was all in my head.

I thought your truck looked familiar, you must be my neighbor

I wish I could put the things somewhere on the roof, have some fancy lights to look at at night. Gauges are so tall and long though it would take a lot of thinking to put them up there and not have it sticking down like having a shoe nailed to the roof. Hmm, where else is there.

Kind of? I would have more view if I cut down a redwood and strapped it to the same spot Actually, I wonder how much the gauges actually add, I have never been in a truck with them in it so I am not sure how bad it is. Well I guess Johnfak had them but I wasn't in the drivers seat I guess I am just paranoid about having stuff that would make the pillar seem even bigger.

Now we're getting in depth Might have to use that next go around. Have to see how long this lasts. I happen to live a half hour from the AFB that houses all but one of the B2 Bombers. I would think if any place, they would be the ones who have something like that. Thanks for the input Liveoak! Got me interested in what those things are.

Well last night it had the running light issues and stuff so today I went at it again and found out yet another wire was on there for useless purposes, cut it off and now everything is perfect. I hooked up to the trailer and got to the end of the driveway and hit the brakes and the heard trailer skidding on the gravel, made my day. I really should have got some kind of tube to stick all the wires in but with them all being different lengths and me being reluctant to cut them down any shorter, I don't think it would go in a tube very nicely. Now that I think about it, I think I will just wrap it in electrical tape really good. I think I need to put a thicker ground wire on it so it can charge the battery in the trailer a little better, other than that the thing is perfect, no stuttering lights or anything and when I checked all the contacts in the outlet, they all had 12.6 volts instead of it being 11 or 10 or some oddball voltage caused by all the corrosion in the wires.Here's the final result. I might rewire the whole run from cab to trailer connector one of these days but I think it looks good enough for now.

Been a long time since I started laughing at something from the internet lol.