ISX

No I found a thing that makes universal bootable thumb drives but it doesn't seem to support this ".usb" standard crap. They had this trail version thing where you can use it without installing it and also install it if you want and it was an ISO and it is what I got to work but it is what freezes. You can see all the different versions http://www.oracle.com/technetwork/server-storage/solaris11/downloads/index.html?ssSourceSiteId=ocomen The one that is the ISO that I got to start installing and freeze is "Oracle Solaris 11 11/11 Live Media for x86" 821mb Here is what happens. https-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=04xAoCE-1r8

I finally got this done and wanted to make a link for it over here. Only thing ever stopping me was finding a bad injection line that I could bend around how I wanted. I didn't know if the air thing would work but it worked in my head and sure enough it worked in practice So here it is over on Tom's site. http://www.dieseltrucksite.com/showthread.php?t=670

I only use opera, excel, pidgin messenger thinger, and thats about it. It came with some free excel program. I tried installing solaris 11 but the damn thing freezes up during install. Not sure what the deal was. It seemed more like windows so I wanted to try it, I am not a fan of taskbars that autohide. I also don't understand how to install the .usb file that they use.

I've never seen a direct answer for this as they all seem to be different. As far as I can tell, the seal is only there to hold the thing against the recess. I think I ditched one of the seals when I put the other thermostat in. I mean all it does is open and close so as long as you have it in the right direction, it's going to work. Some have a bypass thing which is to let the thermostat see a more accurate water temp but I have used both and couldn't see much difference. As long as you put RTV between the metal to metal pieces (lifting eye) and you put the seal in in such a way that it will hold the thermostat in there (rather than it being loose in there), and have the thermostat in the right direction, I think it would work just as well. I have used a couple different ones and they all work fine.After rereading your post, it sounds like you got the older one that I had in the video. I don't see any way to get around using that small seal since it would have that big of gap in it to play in without it. I don't know if you could turn the big seal over and have it smash against the lifting plate and tstat or if it would still have a lot of play.

The temp sensor is the very top very back (the orange thing). http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=318&d=1261361932 As for the thermostat, this might help. Seem to be all different kinds. One in mine now is for a 5.9 gasser. I used RTV on mine as well. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=In2r9jU_k_4

I thought about this some more and if I were you I would take the vacuum splice 4 way adapter thingamabob off the vacuum actuator that is on the transfer case. Then unscrew the actuator so you can see the thing better and hook the 4way thing back up and start the truck and you should be able to just push the button on the bottom of the actuator with your hand. Just draw a line on the 4 way and actuator so you can hook it up the same way it came off because I don't remember if pushing the button is 2wd or 4wd. So you would press the button and see if the 4wd light comes on. Then look at the plug and see if you can rotate it since you want the opposite to happen meaning when you press the button the light should turn off. Again I don't remember which position engaged the CAD, I just think you should be able to take it out and hook it up the same way and then possibly rotate the plug to make the opposite happen. I think it might be on there wrong.

This might help you out. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/39-transmission-systems/80-central-axle-disconnect-cad-system-troubleshooting From what you are saying I think you got a vacuum line on the transfer case in the wrong spot. You say you put everything back in the same spot but if thats the only thing you touched then it pretty well has to be the culprit. It is sending vacuum to the CAD in 2wd and causing it to engage. Now you wouldn't actually have 4wd because the transfer case is in 2wd so it would be like the axle doesn't have a disconnect like the 2002 trucks. You say you do have 4wd in 4wd though without the light being on and this doesn't make sense. The light comes on when the disconnect hits the light button in the axle so if that light isn't on then the CAD is disconnected and you shouldn't have 4wd because of the way an open differential front is designed. The right side will spin at the CAD and the left side will do nothing, like how a car with one tire on ice will spin that tire and the other tire on pavement won't do anything. If you jacked it up and put it in 4wd then the left tire would seemingly be locked to the driveshaft and seem like it was in 4wd but in actuality it would never be driven since the CAD is disconnected.

I'll have to post more on it later. It's REALLLLLLLLLY smooth. I can't believe I haven't ditched windows long ago. It really isn't much of a change. I'll get a video of it tomorrow or something so everyone can see cause I never thought I would be able to switch but geeeez this thing is just so simple. Theres things that are different and some people might not get but if you can pick up on things you will find out it places them in better spots. I'll get more detailed tomorrow. As of now I don't see it being switched back over to windows

I want to try this thing out. I have a separate hard drive with windows 8 on it that I will gladly format. Can't believe what a joke 8 is. I am not that good with software related crap so if anyone wants to see how it's done (by means of someone who isnt very computer savvy) then watch this thread as I will post screenshots and stuff (if I can figure out how). Maybe I am just setting myself up for disaster but I don't think I have anything to lose. I am big on a fancy interface though.. If I wanted it to look like windows 95 I woulda kept windows 95. So I am currently downloading it from here and then I will throw it on a USB stick. Stay tuned.

That thing is awesome. Looks like the modern day skytrak thing http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/SkyTrak6042.jpg Neat seeing the stuff they had back then. Really like the way it operates in comparison to the skytrak.

I think it is the tighter exhaust valve specs that does it (the quicker spooling). When you allow the exhaust to open sooner it exhausts a higher pressure gas since the piston relieves pressure as it goes down.

Yeah you woulda been fine. It has like 0.070" further than the stock 10 and 20 before it hits the piston. Though this could be different on a 24V but I'm betting you would still be fine down to 0 lash. The only reason it isn't 0 lash on both is because of heat expansion. The exhaust has more lash because the hot exhaust gasses are going past it so it expands more. If it expanded too much then it would push the valve open and cause a small leak.

Yeah like Mr. Mindless said, a barring tool. It turns the engine really slow which also makes it really easy to hold the engine still. I have never really used any cleaner, just wiped it off really good with a rag until it was really dry. Something like paint thinner (acetone) would work good too since it evaporates then wipe it off for good measure.

Diesel is $4 a gallon and I get 5% cash back on it. 5% of $4 is 20 cents. There is no fine print to this. Credit card companies make money off of the people that don't pay their card off (20% interest on their debt) and they charge companies money when we use it. In other words, gas stations get charged to use a credit card which is a payment to the credit card company, which they pay back to us as an incentive. Actually I guess there is some fine print, you only get 5% for 6 months out of the year and 1% the other 6 months, though I have another credit card that gives me 2% cash back all year. The fact is, it's free money.

You must be the only one I know who realizes that as well. I buy everything with credit cards, I have 4. Each one has a different benefit and I strategize which to use on even a $1 purchase. I pay them all off each month and have never paid a dime in interest. I make tons on rewards. It baffles me to no end how people can't figure out that the $100 a week in purchases could be purchased with a credit card and add up to thousands of rewards at the end of the year, completely free. I don't think it takes any kind of advanced logic to see that you can buy the same stuff you currently buy with cash, but with a credit card, and make money, lots of money. Instead they read "minimum payment on $1000 balance is $10" so they only pay $10. I know tonss of people who swore off credit cards because they just went nuts with them. I don't know where on the card it says "buy whatever you want and don't worry about the debt" but apparently the majority of the population sees that. They would all go nuts if I showed them how I get 20 cents off every gallon. Then there is the incentive of getting $150 free for getting a credit card and spending $1500 with it in the first 3 months, which you make rewards on that $1500 as well. Get the credit card, spend $1500 on bills you already pay and then chop the card up and have $150 free

I must be sadistic as I would almost pay to do your crank seal It's not that hard to do and it's neat getting to see all the gears. Never seen that guys writeup, very nice pics. However! I think I have excessive blowby that actually blows oil out of the seal rather than the seal being bad. The dipstick on mine is always out 1/4" when I pop the hood and I just have lots of reasons to believe it is excessive. I have a lot of oil leaks on stuff that I have just changed the gasket on, sometimes multiple times and it always leaks afterwards. I have done the timing cover 3 different ways and I think the cover is fine but the seal keeps leaking and I know it's on there right and I think I have gone through 3 of them now.

Well that would be interesting. I don't know much about the CR I guess, didn't think it was able to control pressures. If you search for dynamic common rail pressures you come up with all sorts of things.

From what I have seen the VP can only vary duration. Duration limits quantity and thus fueling. I don't think it has the capability to limit pressure, I don't think the CR trucks can even do that. RPM would dictate pressure since it would be pumping faster but on a CR the pressure is always the same in the rail so it would always be the same out of the injector. Not 100% on all this but 99.9% sure.

So I pulled my ford injectors and somehow they are almost spotless. Not sure how it pulled that off. It did have some carbon and I torched it and I'm still not sure about it all. It seemed to burn it off slightly but I still think it has to get a lot hotter than 1100F. I never see any tar or carbon build up so I just don't get what there is to burn off and how the ford has hardly any is even more of a mystery. I can't say either way at this point. What I can say is that if it does work, is everyone supposed to hook onto 10,000 lbs and drive like a bat out of hell for a tank-full every month? I have a very hard time getting over 1000F so there is no way I could ever burn off this supposed carbon build up. I think there has to be a better way, though I have yet to see a problematic build up of carbon on mine.

How can you tell between algae and just contaminants on the fuel filter? My fuel filter looks the same as his but I don't get oil on my hands when I touch it and it's not slimy. Mine is more like just a fuel filter that someone colored black, the media feels the same as new.

Good point. I see he has a 5 speed. If you put it in 5th and set the parking brake it won't budge. 1st gear gives the engine a lot of leverage so you can actually move the truck while the brake is on by barring the engine over. 5th gear has the least leverage and frankly, you won't budge it.

Where does the algae come from and what causes it? I have never dealt with it and don't see why it looks like oil. Thanks for jumping in on this!

X3, that gear is only on there with friction that the nut applies to it and over time it adheres to the shaft pretty good. It needs a few taps of the hammer to "shock" it to get it off that shaft. Just make sure you have tension equally, not putting more on one side of the gear than the other.Make sure the shaft on the P7100 is completely dry when you stick it back into the timing case/gear because it needs all the friction it can get to keep it from slipping so any oil on that shaft is a bad thing. Tighten it back up to exactly 145 ft lbs, no more no less. People have a lot of trouble with them slipping that is why it is so critical. I've never had it slip but I always do like I said so it must work.

Well my NASA thing requires some fancy fittings. The 2nd fuel port is M18 x 1.5 and going from that to a hose barb or something isn't something that any local stores sell. I would look all over it on the return lines and other stuff for any sign of fuel leaking since that would also be a spot for air to leak in. Air being thinner than fuel it might be hard to pinpoint, hence my NASA thing. I worked on a truck that had biodiesel hooked up to it which made him cut all the steel fuel lines and run rubber hose. He had an air leak and I replaced the rubber hose with clear rubber hose and mann was it easy to find. I would almost cut all my steel lines if it wasn't for the fact that steel lines are obviously very stout and will only leak at the fittings.