Everything posted by ISX
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Timing Effects
Now I'm captivated. My injector says 260 bar which is 3771 psi. Are you saying that the plunger can jam 18,855psi out the delivery valve if it needs to and hence the injector sees that much at times? I would think that means the injector would be popping insanely fast rather than what I see on a pop tester lol. What can the VP44 pump out then?
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Timing Effects
I had to really think about it to grasp that I don't know how much difference it makes but I am thinking it really wouldn't do much more than a degree or 2, if that. But then again, I am not sure. The higher flow from the plungers going faster would just raise the pressure at the bottlenecks since at a constant plunger position they are going to pump the same amount of fuel regardless of RPM. This means at higher RPM it would be shoving the fuel through the bottlenecks like the delivery valves at higher pressure but the injector is going to pop the same amount of times as at low RPM (same plunger position) per piston stroke. I would like to think it advances but I am just not sure. Seems the laws of hydraulics would keep everything relatively the same. I will think more about this though.
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Timing Effects
You're gonna have to expand on this so I can wrap my head around why you think this way. Not doubting I just want to see it in the same light as you.
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Timing Effects
Both of your guys' posts were great. Still makes me wonder where all the knocking comes from on a VP44. Another weird thing is on my 215 pump there are retarding notches when you are at WOT. Some have said that's for packing more fuel in but I am thinking it must be an emissions thing. It retards it 4* from what I have heard.
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Water pump
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Water pump
I had to get a new one a couple months back and it had a shroud too. Thinking by shroud you mean a little chinese hat thing with a hole in the center over the impeller? I didn't notice any difference in temps.
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Question About Mikes Wood
This will be interesting. I have crammed logs so big in ours it wouldn't fit in the door and I have to kick it and chisel at it and keep dragging the stove back since it's not bolted to the floor. In the end I am not sure chopping it in half exerts more effort. Burns longer though so more time in between choppings
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What bit to drill hard steel
Find a way to push harder. Get a good bit from fastenal or something. Go slow and push hard and use cutting oil. I mean 200RPM slow. The longer it takes the duller it is going to get so push harder but go slow as heat kills the bits too. Cutting oil helps. I think you know all this. I have drilled at least 20 holes in an I beam 3/8" thick with the same bit for tapping 1/4-20 and I did it all on the same bit and it was just like new at the end. I went really slow (maybe 200RPM) and used cutting oil and had the drill against my chest and arms wrapped around the I beam and pushed as hard as I could. You want to be going the right speed and have enough pressure to have it spiral out a constant chip on both flutes. This takes a ton of pressure when you do it with a cordless drill, I had purple bruises on my chest to prove it But my bit was still good hahaha. It was even a cheap piece of crap one so it's not like you have to have the best bit out there. I wouldn't think they would use something much harder than mild steel, I mean it's just a trailer. If it was stainless then I could understand the issue. Push harder!
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Grey smoke
If it is truely grey (not light black) I think you might have a leaky injector. Black is partially burnt and white is unburnt so a mixture (grey) would mean you are getting some black smoke from some and white smoke from others. At low RPM bogging it, it becomes harder to get all that fuel burnt on a crappy injector. At higher RPM it can probably burn it all if the leak isn't too great. I think EGT might just be an effect of the timing advance. When you advance it and lug it, it is running way out of it's optimum range so it fires the injector before it should creating a sort of cylinder backpressure sense which in turn raises EGT. Mine had grey smoke and I recently found I had an injector that wasn't popping at all, it would just force the fuel in like a hose rather than a mist. Other than that, it would be something else that would cause unburnt fuel like valves way out of whack (doubt it).
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Timing Effects
But if it already way too advanced, why does the edge chip advance it even more?
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Timing Effects
Ohhhh yeah. Started up before the sound hit my ear as well.
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Pipe Insulation
Russ's way works too I got bored for 5 min so decided to draw it up since it's kinda neat.
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1st Gen Hood Stack Build
Got a video of it running? I wanna hear this thing!
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Pipe Insulation
What? I hate having to "make it work" like so many people do. This was 3" pipe with 1" thick insulation so when it didn't work it was very obvious and it just sucked looking at it. I like to take pride in my work which is why I got math involved. When I bend conduit I try for 1/16" accuracy without having to even tweak the pipe. It's a lost trait in this world, everyone just wants to bang it out and move on to the next job. Getting off topic again. But you get the picture and now you know how to get it dead nuts.
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Pipe Insulation
I had to put that on a couple hundred feet of pipe where I work. My 45's sucked as well. I looked at it and finally figured out the problem. I imagine like everyone else the piece ended up too long. This is because you measured from the end of the last piece (straight cut) to the inside of the next pipe, which is the shortest part of the 45 so you got your angle finder and started the 45 at that point. You cut it and....damn the thing overhangs on the corner so you have this big lip sticking up on one piece and an undercut on the next. Looking closer you might notice that the lip juts out the same amount as the thickness of the insulation. The insulation moves the distance to the bottom of the next pipe back exactly the thickness of the insulation. So if its 1/2" thick and your measuremen was 30", you should actually start the cut at 29 1/2". Then it will ne dead nuts. Another trick with cutting the insulation is to mark it at 29 1/2" then on the other side mark it 29.5 + the diameter of the insulation, this will make a perfect 45 when you match marks with the saw, just make sure you have a good eye to match it at the very edges of the insulation. All of this crap just involves the fact that a 45* triangle has 2 equal length sides (hypotenuese is longer, 60* is the one with all 3 being equal)
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5 speed oil
Redline synthetics has an oil specifically designed for it that is cheaper and redline makes stuff run smoooth. Amsoil was horrible in my 5 speed.
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Fuel prices going up again
I am not sold on the weak dollar thing. I have thought about it for a long time and always come back to how everything is pretty well equalized. For example, in 1960 the average person made $4,080 a year. The average cost for a gallon of gas was $0.31. $4,080/52 means $78.46 a week. I use 12 gallons a week. That means it cost me $3.72 a week in gas, or 4.7% of my income. In 2010 gas prices averaged $3.18. Average salary was $41,673.83. Meaning $801.41 a week and I would spend $38.16 a week on gas or 4.7% of my income. Geez I didn't think it would be THAT close to being the same. But still you get the picture. The only problem is that people save "money". Meaning the $20 I saved back then, is still worth $20 today, which frankly isn't worth what it was back then. I am one of them who saves so I get screwed as well. I notice gold has shot through the roof in the last 10 years so I should have invested my savings in that. But there is NO reason the dollar value has to change. A show I watched a year or 2 ago said the dollars value is based solely on our own personal value we give it. Only problem with that is that big companies want more money all the time just because they added a new fancy feature. Now we have duramax's costing more than corvettes
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Low power CTD issue - KyCTD
I think you guys missed that he had the exact same issue on the other engine. He used the 00' vp so both vp's had the same issue which pretty well says its not the vp.
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Vacuum line size
I think I would just go into NAPA and tell them what you need. Tell them you are using it as a vacuum line.. Rubber hoses will work if they are the right stuff. The plastic vacuum line might be harder to find.
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Low power CTD issue - KyCTD
Posting this issue for KyCTD since we talked about it in the chat last night and told him I would type it out for him. Bought a 2001 auto CTD that ran fine. One day he started getting on it pretty good and then it just turned into a really doggy truck, slower than any stock truck. Described it as "Geo metro being pushed by a yugo with a 30mph tailwind lol". Found it also had a cracked block. Scrapped the engine and found a 2000 donor truck which was also an auto. Put the engine in using the 2001 ECM and it ran but something wasn't right. Found out the cams were different, switched the cams and that made it run perfect. He used the 2000 VP as well, not the one off the 2001 cracked block. Today or yesterday he was driving along and then it did the same thing. Same slow doggy thing that it was with the other block. It has a new FASS and 18psi idle and WOT. Also has edge comp. Says the edge does nothing, levels 1-5. It has the 1693 companion code which he is finding the other codes out tomorrow and will bring them back to this thread so we can jump into this issue further. Seems like it's in some sort of limp mode, bout all we could figure in the chat room, looking forward to codes. There you have it. I'll let KyCTD take it from here when he gets back tomorrow.
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Vacuum line size
I measured 0.165" O.D. which is nothing standard so probably is 3/16" line (probably shrunk on mine over time, 3/16 is .1875"). Using rubber hose is not advised with a vacuum line because it will suck it flat. I *think* fuel line rated rubber hose is designed to not collapse though, so that might work.
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Timing Effects
I don't know what their deal is but at least I got my answer. But then again the 24v sounds like a truck that's running 24* haha. That's why I think the pump making noise is a very logical culprit.
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Pulling the trigger on a few mods soon.
Fuel pressure changes but that's the nature of a mechanical lift pump. Set it at 35psi and you're good to go. It doesn't have to change in fact its better if its constant.
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Timing Effects
Well this took a weird turn. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-24v-p-pump-conversion/475540-24v-knock-ppumped-24v.html Basically they said it's the VP making all the racket. That makes a lot more sense than the insanely advanced timing that it sounds like. Also explains why the 2 stroke makes it a lot quieter though I have yet to hear a 24V with it in it in person. Hmmmmmmmm how the tables have turned.
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Had one heck of a week "In a Good way"
We have had problems in the past, you might be aware of that. I don't have any problem with this (obviously I added to the fire lol) as long as it doesn't become something that defamates someone. People like to twist things around to make it seem like you are insulting them but I think this thread is good and is teaching people a thing. The most important thing to remember about politics or threads about politics is that this is all our opinion. Seems most people that read political forum discussions think they have to get all defensive. Take it for what it is worth and move on.. Otherwise we are no better than who we are criticizing. So do you guys really think the major cause of all this is that everyone has been looking the other way when they see government operations? You guys obviously know more about the underlying causes than I do and it's interesting to read your alls input.