ISX

I have been paying a lot of attention lately on what I hate about windows and it's not really so much the operating system as much as it is the web browser, I THINK... I used fedora a couple days ago and I like that a lot better than ubuntu though I still hate the way it shows you files (/root whatever, rather than C:/...) but the internet was snappier and just smoother it seemed. I have yet to get a browser that works perfectly with youtube. Everything sometimes jitters or something doesn't load right or who knows what. Fedora seemed better at it.

Sounds like my friends lol. I will never understand why they all stab you in the back constantly. I am down to basically none. Mainly most of them just talk behind my back and that drives me insane because I always hear about it. I was watching storage wars last night and one of them found a case of dualling pistols. The story behind it was if you were talking about someone behind their back, then you had the balls to go into a dual with them when they found out about it, if you wouldn't do it then you were deemed a coward and the loser of the town. I'm thinking we go back to those times If you think about it, thats the reason a lot of things have become way out of hand in the backstabbing gist of things....there are no real consequences. I'm all for dualling! If thats the kinda person they are then why does society need them? And if they are fast and kill me first, then I guess I shouldn't have confronted them in the first place haha. Ok back to topic lol. I actually dont get how it ran 60 miles with gas and didn't screw anything up. Was it a mixture?

lol I was expecting someone to say it so you were just that someone. I was going to replace them but haven't had the time lately and no I just don't have the money so it will sit. I just didn't expect the thing to explode by driving it some more Don't worry dorkweed I knew I shoulda replaced them and one piece did come off the tire and the car behind me had to slam on their brakes to miss it but I guess thankfully I'm good at keeping people off my rear. They were michelin LTX A/T's. ACUTTTTTTTALLLLLLLLLLY maybe that's why they stopped making them! They lasted a long time but maybe they had some issues like this because they don't sell them anymore and they use LTX A/T2's now. I just realized I have that damn jeep so I might just go for an all highway tire if I can afford it. I only got all terrain for the snow and yeah I don't need it anymore for that.

This tire was like 4 years old, if that. I don't know what $220 tire would have a speed rating under 100mph, all the ratings I am finding on google for this tire are 112, and I can't even go that fast. It had 70psi in it when I checked them all before I took off.

Uhhmm the tire still had tread on it, barely, and no wires were showing or anything so why would it just explode!? I see no reason why it did. And yes actually I do wait for the tires on my dirt bike to go completely bald. I go through them too fast to just replace them when I tear a knob off. I figured someone would say this but I'll take a pic of the tire and you'll see that it blew up like there was dynamite all the way around it. The way I see it the tread has nothing to do with tire strength and since I still had tread left it tells me I was never wearing into the actual tire rigidity so the reason it blew up had to just be due to age. But still...theres people with a lott older tires on things and they dont completely explode.

I can't wait to have as much experience as you Russ lol. There is no such thing as getting older, just wiser. It's amazing how much they can tear up when they are flapping. I can't believe my aluminum rim looks perfect after driving on it for well not too long I guess I was on the brakes and off to the exit and just drove on into the grass cause I hate being anywhere near the interstate. I would like to get a better understanding of the whole belt deal. Like how they come apart and stuff. I never really have fully understood it other than seeing (especially now lol) all the layers in a tire. But how do they just come apart?

The spare is brand spankin new! Give it another 100k before I change the rest Actually that tire is identical to another one on the truck... When I bought it the PO had a bald pair and a new pair and I put new ones on the bald set (the pair with this blower upper) and then a while back the other pair finally wore out. The latest ones were hankooks, which wore as fast as the michelins so now ALLL are equally wore so I can finally put a matched set on the damn thing. I want some pirelli scorpions but $$$$$. I can't afford anything anymore anyways for a long while. And I swear that OEM jack is the biggest PITA. Maybe not a pain but geeeeez its the slowest thing in the world. It was 105F with no clouds at noon when I did this I got the spare tire out, through it by the blown up tire, got back in the truck and sat there a while lol. It actually was nice just not caring about time, like I had no worries in the world. It took like 2 hours lol. I sure wasn't in any hurry.

Not that I'm really surprised.. I think I say everything in the vid that needs to be said. But yeah, that penny rule where if it doesnt cover lincolns head, change it, is probably a good rule of thumb. It isn't the funnest thing having the front passenger side tire blow going that fast and then try and keep it going straight. Something else mighta been going on because it vibrated for a couple miles verrrry slightly before it blew, like a belt let go in the tire. I got a LOT of miles out of them, but obviously tread life isn't the only factor. Age seems to be another. Lesson learned. BUT, in hindsight, I would carry a better jack if you don't have an hour to work that OEM piece of crap, but even better is one that will fit under a 2wd trick with no tire... I drove it into a ditch so I could get some room under it and dig a hole. Which takes us to the next thing, bring a rug or something lol. Bring a real socket/ratchet. I didn't have any wires showing the tires were just barely having any tread left. So if you pull, this should be a lesson to have good tires on it.. It wouldn't be as fun with a TT. Of course there is the cosmetic damage but my paint is already screwed from I guess some lead based paint changover or somethign in 1997 all I know is the pain turns green and chips the clear coat off. http://youtu.be/00S0n0P9PUc

Lets say you are idling, but moving at 70mph, would you not be getting incredible mileage? Lets say you had an unloaded truck vs. pulling a trailer, is there not a significant difference? They aren't incapable of using less fuel.. The ECM on these things can only control so much.. There are much more efficient things out there, and things that haven't even been invented. All of which can make the truck require less fuel my making the engine more efficient or other means. Stodg has got the same mileage as me using propane, so it's not like the thing is incapable of being more efficient given the means to do so. But of course propane is an additional cost of course. I'm just saying that you have to think outside the box. The RV275 injectors gain you MPG's, higher fuel pressure gain you MPG's...what else is there? Could be several things we could be doing. Nobody would care if there wasnt an identical truck like the 12V's out there saying that yes you SHOULD be getting much better mileage. What gets me is the fact that my timing is static, I have 2 less valves, so the efficiency (theoretical) loss should mean that I get less mpg's than a 24v. But the 24V has emissions but do you really mean to tell me, that a truck, with more valves for better flow and variable timing, can not only be seemingly less efficient than a 12V, but also go beyond that another couple mpgs, just because of emissions?.... I keep thinking that the emissions loss would be gained by the efficiency improvement. I know compression ratio has something to do with it because a 12V is 17 or so and a 24V is around 16 ( You see all kinds of numbers on the net so who knows what it actually is). That has something to do with it obviously but it's still missing something. Plus the ppumper 24V trucks get the same mileage as they did with the VP as far as I have read, so it's not exactly the emissions doing it. We can go over this for hours, like millions of others have since 1998... Nobody seems to do much other than ponder about it. I'm gonna get to the bottom of it. I know there is a bit of politics involved and stuff that is keeping them from getting 30+ mpg, but even so I want to weed that crap out and figure out whats holding it back.

That's the weird thing, I beat the crap out of it and can't get BELOW 21.. So why the 24V has to be driven like a smart car to get that is just ridiculous. I don't know what does it but it can't be that hard to fix. I mean the 12V and 24V operate the same way, they put fuel in the cylinder and make it go boom... since the 24V is completely variable, there is no reason it cannot match the 12V settings. Someone just needs to tap into it, but I think there has to be an easier way. Maybe the turbo boost needs fooled, maybe the fuel pressure needs fooled....who knows. I have the connectors and even the resistors you need to make this IAT fooler setup.. Think I even have a relay.

Ah I'll check all that. They are veryyy cheap looking tires so that might be it too.

Alright so lately the passenger side front tire has been doing this death wobble crap. Verrrry mild, I know what the real death wobble is and this is more of an imbalance, but it has got progressively worse and was pretty bad yesterday. I am not a suspension/axle guy at all and I really doubt it has anything to do with death wobble but I just wanted to confirm that this is probably just bad u-joints? What else could it be? It doesn't really do it in a straight line but moreso when you are turning left where the weight of the vehicle is shifted to that passenger side tire. Sometimes it does it sometimes it's smooth as silk, just has to have something "set it off". Oh and this is my 1994 jeep cherokee.

Exactly what I have noticed. Mine is geared to run 2100RPM at 70mph so thats what I aim for. Seems just as well at 65 but it's so high in the RPM at 70 that it has no turbo lag issues or EGT issues, 900-1000F the entire time.

So are we to just say the 24V is just incapable of that kinda mileage and dismiss all attempts to try and get it there? I think not! guesswho512 had the exact same truck as me and could hardly get to 20, I think thats BS. There is something we are missing. I figured out the summer/winter variation issue (IAT difference) but now what is the issue thats keeping the vasssst majority of 24V'ers at 20mpg.. I'm gonna spend thousands on engineering/aerodynamic university that starts in a few weeks to figure out all these damn questions I have. I will not let complexity stand in my way, I will turn it into simplicity! I will not fail! Failure is for politics I will get these damn things to 30mpg, every one of them!

I pull 27 if I do 55mph for the entire tank unloaded, so even 30 is doable with some mods I would say. But 14 almost sounds like something is wrong. I know everyone is telling you how to get better mileage but 14 seems so low that it can't just be a lead foot doing it. I mean most of us get that with a trailer in tow like others have already mentioned. What are your boost numbers and other vitals at a given speed?

Those injectors are actually a tiny bit under my stock 215 injectors (5 x 0.01025) so I wouldn't think that would be the culprit. You are running a little hot for an unloaded truck. But you have an auto which is geared higher meaning lower RPM's than me at a given speed. RPM pumps out heat, so if you are running (guessing here) 1800RPM at 70, then thats much lower than my 2100RPM at 70... I have a lot of RPM because of the gearing and small tires giving the engine a lot of leverage so it barely breaks a sweat. The bigger tires on yours will also add to the load, raising EGT's. I actually started a chart for this for someone like yourself. You might find it helpful. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/3076-EGT-Figures-for-Reference

I couldn't figure out what the exact problem was but found out the missing thing here. He was giving millions to anti-*** activists. I really don't care who does what with who, the thing that really gets me is that we have people at war getting shot at to fight for their/our home and yet us at home appreciate this by doing crap like this? Spending millions of dollars on people to drive around and bash ways of life and of course the other millions spent on the counterbashers. And if that wasn't enough BS, the economy which is weak already, has money taken out of it to support this crap. I don't really believe in "old american values". I think there were "bad" people back then the same as today. I just think people need to all be slapped in the head so they stop doing this crap. I think if you put one of these activists in a room with a soldier and interviewed them both, it would be an eye opener. Interviewer: So what did each of you do today?Soldier: Barely missed a grenade and almost lost my life when my hummer ran over a mine. Activist: Held a sign all day to whine about what someone spends money on. But then again, my opinions are no different than the opinions of the activists so, life is just a constant battle of conflicts. We feed on them. The more people there are, the more conflicts of interest. I guess that's debatable too but you can compromise easier with a small group. Nobody wants to compromise anything these days, which seems to be the absolute biggest problem.

Scroll down to "Throttle position sensor adjustment and cleaning", maybe it will help you. http://www.dieselgiant.com/dodge_diesel_maintenance_tips.htm

Well in any case the throttle does not move between the engine being off or it running. The internals of the ppump move to shut it down but the throttle cable does not between idle and engine off. Soooooo I don't see how it could be anything other than 0%.. No clue on how to zero it but I don't see any reason for it to be at that %.

I knew that. What I said still stands.

I do not have an auto but how can it say 27% of throttle when the throttle is against the idle screw on the pump? It's not like 12V's have control of the idle...it idles lower in the cold, same 0% "throttle". It suuuure as hell has no idea how much load the engine has on it, theres no sensors for that on these things. I'm thinking you need to start it and 0 it at idle (no clue how). Didn't you say it shifted weird or something? Maybe thats why But then again I have never messed with autos in these things.

There is a fuse called IOD which is the culprit.. It is the one with the fuse puller thing on it. I think it stands for ignition off disconnect which pulls the plug on everything that draws power to allow for long term storage without the battery being drawn down. But it also gives power to the radio and dome lights and stuff..

You do realize this is general diesel...and your posts are getting very ummm "general". I know we are pretty open here but geeez. Keep it PG dorkweed! Someone could be reading this with their morning coffee..

The AFC needs boost pressure to push it to and fro, to control smoke.. Why they didn't just run a little line to the intake manifold for that and a little line from the wastegate to the compressor is beyond me, but I have done just that on my truck.. There is a flat spot on the front of the compressor housing and I drilled and tapped it and ditched the crossover line, though I also ditched the entire AFC so I didn't have to tap into the intake manifold. Actually that line is already there, you just gotta drill and tap the compressor housing and your good to go. Cap the fitting that went to the crossover...

I vouched for him lol. Not hard when I can't get any of the other pics to open for some reason. Easy enough decision It is a killer pic though. You should take the same pic as close as you can get him to do, every year...