fire176969

Which connector from the pcm did you find the wire in to use? Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

Does your converter lock up at all or just not with the switch. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

You can't go by the pressures on the AC systems I normally work on, they are computer controlled. It makes it a pain to get them to work good. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

I must have broken my AC when I got it working then. Going down the highway on an 85 degree day with 90% humidity my center vent temp is between 36-40 degrees. Which from what I've been taught about AC puts my low side pressure between 21-25 psi going down the road. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

Would definitely need a body lift on a 2nd gen for one to fit. Just sucks the valve train isn't heavy enough to handle it. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

Was there any freon in the system at all when you went to charge it?Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

Sounds to me like you might want to check the timing marks on the gears. If you don't bother the gear when you remove the VP it is fine but it is possible if the other guys working on it didn't get any information and just tore into it they may have tried to take the gear out with the pump and in that process got the gear timing off. I have heard this cause a lope in a diesel before with really poor or no acceleration. It was not a Cummins but I'm sure it is possible. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

I know you find a resolution but you may want to caution the owner on the factory lift pump. That is how I got my truck with such low mileage, 47,000 miles and the stock lift pump had failed and destroyed the VP. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

Depending on the camper you have/get, you may have to either lift the camper or lower the truck back down. I was pulling my friends camper with his truck that isn't lifted and on some of the roads around here the bedsides almost hit the bottom of the camper. If the truck was lifted it would have done some damage to the bed and camper. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

I'm really slacking in the mileage department. [ATTACH]4406[/ATTACH]Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

Wow, that is luck that sounds like mine. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

The only special tool you need is a puller for the gear. After you take the nut off the pump shaft turn the engine over until the slot for the key in the pump shady is pointing up before you pull the gear loose. Also need a torque wrench for the shaft nut when you reinstall it. They really aren't bad if you are mechanically inclined. I've got it down to about 2 hours from start to finish, that is after changing 11 of then thoughSent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

I checked my ball joints yesterday. I tried jacking the truck up and using a prybar and had no movement but saw the camber angle change when I was jacking the truck up. The only way I saw the movement was to actually watch the balljoints while jacking up the axle. The steering knuckle would actually not start moving up until the play in the balljointswas taken up, about 1/4 inch in my case. So it is time for balljoints for me. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

It would be best to put the new one on the front. It might cause a little pull in the steering but it will save the wear on your clutches in the differential. Normally, in an open differential, the spider gears cam compensate for a 10% difference in tire height side to side continuously without accelerating the wear. On big rigs they actually recommend to put 4 new drive tires on the same side and the 4 used tires on the same side so the main differentials take the speed difference and not the inter-axle differential like would happen if you put 4 new tires on one axle and left the old tires on the other axle. With putting the one new tire on the front, you could play with the air pressure in the steer tires to almost eliminate the pull it might cause. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

I put my drawstraw into the basket along with the return and kept the bottom of the basket intact and have had no issues so far. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

My truck will start doing this pretty much whenever it feels like it. I use my lock up switch until I get home. Every time mine has started doing this I have taken the terminals off the passenger side battery, even though they appeared clean and were tight, cleaned them with a terminal cleaner and re connected then and it goes away for a few months. It sounds like your truck acts the same, starts when it is raining and progresses until it is constant. That is what always seems to cure mine for a while. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

My track bar was really bad but didn't show any movement just turning the wheel back and forth. I put a pry bar between the track bat and frame and the ball and socket end had about 3/8 of an inch of movement up and down. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

Yeah, luckily it didn't break while driving. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

Will look them up, thanks. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

No, there aren't any lights. Have flushed the system 3 times now not counting cleaning out the system while chnging the steering box. The brakes actually work great, it is more the pedal/booster/master cylinder that feels weird. It is like holding your foot on the brake pedal witht the truck off after you have purged the pressure from the accumulator, then starting the truck.

Along with the pssibility of the grid heaters igniting the ether, it has a nasty habit of cracking piston rings. Just recently had to overhaul 3 engines from them being started with ether. Each engine had a minimum of 2 cylinders where the upper compression ring was in 3-4 pieces.

If the wires were supported going into the stock lift pump like mine werewhen I bought the truck (meaning they weren't at all) it is possible the wires going into the lift pump are broken inside the insulation causing them to make and break their connection with vibration. When you unplug and plug the pump back in it could be letting the wires touch for a little bit then break connection shortly after. I bought mine with 47,000 miles on it because the lift pump failed and killed the VP. Your best bet is to put a Fass/Air Dog on when replacing the VP and install a fuel pressure gauge while you are doing it so you can monitor your pressure to keep from prematurely killing your new VP. - - - Updated - - - If the wires were supported going into the stock lift pump like mine werewhen I bought the truck (meaning they weren't at all) it is possible the wires going into the lift pump are broken inside the insulation causing them to make and break their connection with vibration. When you unplug and plug the pump back in it could be letting the wires touch for a little bit then break connection shortly after. I bought mine with 47,000 miles on it because the lift pump failed and killed the VP. Your best bet is to put a Fass/Air Dog on when replacing the VP and install a fuel pressure gauge while you are doing it so you can monitor your pressure to keep from prematurely killing your new VP.

I recently had to replace my steering box due to a broken output shaft. Put a upgraded Borgeson steering box on the truck that I got used for a good price. Worked fine on the truck it came off of. Ever since the brake pedal has been really hard to push initially, then when it gets past the hard spot in the pedal, the brakes seem to almost lock up and toss you into the dash. The steering assist is almost non existant at idle. The assist goes away completely when using the brakes. Steering acts completely normal driving down the road but the brake problem is still present. Just installed a new Borgeson power steering pump on to replace the old one per their recommendation. No air in the system, currently waiting on a return e-mail/phone call from Borgeson and thought I would see if anyone else has ran into this issue before.

Check your track bar, ball joints, tie rods, and 4 link bar bushings. Mine recently started the death wobble every so often due to the track bar. It never got to bad to handle so I ignored it. The one day the output shaft of my steering box snapped in half. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

There shouldn't be any differences between a Chevy and GMC transmission. At the most there might be some wiring differences between the yearsSent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2