fire176969

Started having an issue a couple days ago. Had to crank the engine over way longer than normal. Drove to work and shut the truck off and it started right back up. Tried about 15 minutes later and the hard start issue returned. The angle the truck is parked doesn't seem to have any effect on the issue. Have tried completely removing the edge comp and it was no help. Checked for any codes, none stored. Checked over the fuel system and didn't have any leaks. Has bluish white smoke when it does finally start. Seems to start easier and faster if I give it a little throttle while cranking. Runs great after getting it started. --- Update to the previous post... Thought it could possibly be the injectors leaking into the cylinders causing it to be hard starting.

ATF is a lubricant. It is used in several manual transmissions and even transfer cases. If you look at most clutches for automatic transmissions there are several grooves in them angled to expel the fluid faster as the clutch pack engages. The longer the fluid is in between the clutches the more slippage you get. ATF is used as a substitute for power steering fluid in heavy duty truck steering systems. I run 2 cycle oil also, but if I was to run ATF as a fuel additive I definitely would not use a synthetic. Type F would be the best to use in my opinion but haven't tried it myself. I'm also not sure if you can even get type F transmission fluid anymore. One of the reasons I have not tried ATF is because of the red color it would add to the fuel, but if you were to start running it I would definitely make sure you get a reciept everytime you get fuel and keep them available in the truck if you were to get checked and make sure they are dated reciepts.

Camber is NOT considered a tire wearing angle in an alignment. Examble is the 80's ford truck with the TTB(Twin Traction Beam) front suspension. Those things always had the tires leaning out at the top when new and after a few years the tops of the tires would lean in with no difference in tire wear. If your tires are wearing on the inside it is an indication of the front end being toed out to far. As for measuring the toe, pull the truck forwards on a level surface, make sure the truck is rolling straight. Spray paint a spot on the rear of the front tire tread, make a vertical line and a horizontal line in the paint marks. Make sure the horizontal lines are at the same height. Measure the distance between the two vertical marks. Pull the truck forward until your paint marks are on the front of the tires and the horizontal lines are the same height as they were in the rear. Measure the distance between the vertical lines now on the front of the tires. Compare your measurements from the front to the rear between the vertical lines and that will tell you if the truck is toed in, out, or right.

Never heard or seen anything bad about them. I personally use fleetguard but know of several trucks, including some company fleets with over 100 trucks, that use baldwin filters and to my knowledge there haven't been any problems from them.

I can't say anything for the fuel filters since I've never dealt with them, but I have had to replace an engine due to a wix oil filter. The bypass valve came out of the filter and blocked the oil flow to everything but the crankshaft and high pressure oil pump.

Yeah that is strange. I was always told before that the best place for any hitch like that was slightly in front of the rear axle which really isn't possible with a shortbed. I personally have never had any experience with a fifth wheel/gooseneck setup in a pickup truck, just semi's. It does make it seem like you are ok though. I agree with Mike, pictures would be helpful.

Sorry it took me so long to get back to you. He is a pain to get ahold of when you need to, . The only measurement we could get since he didn't have the actual hitch head with him. The rails for his hitch are mounted by the instructions with the hitch. They have you measure from the rear of the bed forward. Open the tailgate and hook the tape measure on the bed and measure 28 5/8" forward, the back edge of the rear rail gets set there, then he used the hitch itself to mark for the front rail. His hitch is a slider hitch but he said he never worried about releasing it to slide. He did however put a small dent on hid old truck when he slid a little turning around once after he got caught in the rain. Hopefully this helps you out, if you need more info I'll see if I can talk him into getting his hitch and get some more measurements for you just not sure how long it will take.

Just wanted to let you know I won't be able to measure anything until sunday.

Take a bunch of measurements and try to find one the same dimensions. Here is one site that might help. http://www1.mscdirect.com/eCommerce/NavigationServlet/Motion-Control-Fluid-Power/Bearings/Radial-Ball-Bearings/_/N-77fnx?cm_mmc=Didit-_-SEM-_-ItmDtl-_-PypClk&002=2167139&004=2261999464&005=2661047768&006=8086824904&007=Search

I found out tonight I need to do something soon. Got stuck in my yard and EGTs hit 1500 more than once. I must be webtarded cause I can't seem to find what the numbers for a turbo mean, like the 62/x/x. I have no clue what they mean.

Also look close for any rust that might have started in the fittings. If there is any use a scotchbrite pad and clean the rust before you flush the ports so you get a good seal when you install the lines.

No problem. I'll take it all apart and make diagrams to send with it in pieces and test you on putting it back together. :lmao:Of course I would have to make sure I could put it together myself first.

I always seem to be good at getting myself into trouble. :lmao:I just tore the crap out of my yard today because I had the brilliant idea to back down to get my little utility trailer after it rained all day. 7,000 pound truck and soft ground do not play well together. I was going to stop today but passed him before I got to his house. I don't think he has an extended pin box or anything but I will ask when I can get ahold of him. The only other thing I know about the hitch he has is the two rails mount across the bed and he has an additional piece so he can take the 5th wheel off the rails and put one on the rails for a gooseneck.

I know his hitch is a Reese, I think it is a manual slider but not sure. I am currently trying to buy his camper so I will need to adress these problems as well. He has had the same hitch in 3 different trucks and never had ny problems. 2 of them were 2001s and one was a 2008. He also had a 99 before that with a shortbed and pulled a fifth wheel camper with no issues so he should have an idea, lol. I actually have the bedliner out of one of his trucks in mine, it was cut for the rails so I can at the very least give you a ballpark measurement by going to the center of the cutouts for the rails the hitch assembly mounts to. Being sent to a different corner? Can't even hang out with a longbed owner. Oh well, it could have been worse, I could have bought the duramax I wanted instead of my dodge, but one hell of a deal can change almost anyones mind, lol.

Learn something everyday, . No, thanks on the list, from the sound of it I wouldn't have enough time to read it

I don't have a 5th wheel hitch in my shortbed yet, however a friend of mine has had 3 different shortbeds and pulled a 5th wheel camper all over the country for work and never had and problems turning or any damage. Next time I see him I'll find out what kind of hitch he has and attempt to get some measurements for you. Until then I will join the growing party in the corner.

Wasn't sure, was trying to guess from your dealership list of a signature, . I didn't know you could disable each cylinder with a scanner on a 24v that year either. Thought the only was to disable a cylinder was to crack open an injector line.

If anyone happens to read this and is going to p-pump their truck anyway I would love to take a vp-44 apart to see what makes it tick.

Depending on the manufacturer, most of the big(6 in. or bigger) stacks are just pretty much for looks. Most standar euipment stacks are either 4 or 5 in. I know of one particular semi that has 3 different sizes of exhaust pipe between the engine and the stack. It is 4 in. at the turbo and about 2 feet back it jumps to 5 in. It is 5 in. into the muffler and 6 in. out of the muffler, then splits into two 4 in. pipes then goes back to 5 in. for the actual stack. I honestly think that most manufacturers just use what works, meaning what they can get to fit and whatever is the cheapest. There is obviously a minimum that they have to use due to heat but as far as semis go, it is more a money game than anything else. Thos big shiny chrome stacks sell trucks, and about 9 times out of 10, if you see a truck with stacks bigger than 5 or possibly 6 inch, they were put on after the truck was bought and it is an owner/operator's truck and not a company owned rig.

You really shouldn't run the truck to try and find out which one it is. I have seen a few hundred injectors, in International engines, that the nozzle tip split in pieces. Sometimes they don't come apart but sometimes they do. The ones that do have a piece come off the tip usually look pretty ugly and require an overhaul with a replacement cylinder head and turbo. Not sure if the CTD have ever had any issues with this but it is worth knowing before you run the truck anymore. Just a question but how is a scanner going to disable injectors on a 12 valve?

Not to call you out on anything but you can't really compare the DT570 fuel system to a common rail. While there is a common fuel supply to all the injectors in the electronic DT engines, they are a HEUI (Hydraulicaly actuated Electronically controlled Unit Injector) fuel system. Once again I'm not trying to step on your toes, but not an honest comparison IMHO.

I've never honestly used trailer brakes pulling a trailer with a pickup, but if I was to put a controller in it would be a voyager, not really sure of what model though.

I was looking at a BD super b turbo. Just can't seem to find anyone that has had one to get any info. Going to be a while before I get any of them because I refuse to buy a 2 or 300 chinese turbo from ebay for my truck. Since you mentioned it, I've dealt with 3 trucks that had dead vp44s, and none of them had a CEL. Thats is a very good way to slow down in a hurry, unless you were parked when that mishap occured,:lmao:

I'm sure by now it has went above that but haven't checked. I am trying to decide which would be the best turbo to replace mine with. The only other power mod I plan on is a set of rv 275 injectors. So those with the HRVP and edge comp will all have to play nice together.

I think I would check for fuses on the trailer first. After that, would check and see if his truck has an extra wire ran into the trailer plug to power the lights.