Stormin08

i did just this...on the road traveling, turbo seems like good shape. unknown mileage bought from a CF member, i had roughly 105K on my truck at the time...now has 203K and i have not had to touch that hx.

any else confirm this... my understanding is this...BLUETOP is a family member (son or nephew) of REDHEAD, who worked for and relocated from RH. Just decided to start another location ????

the seat bottom swap works with ease...the side is slightly different due to seat belt position, but after a few weeks you wont even notice.

the BOV is inline on the air intake aide prior to any throttle blade. Yes, in a gas world, when the throttle blades close the pressure from boost opens a relief valve (bov). similar to a wastegate on the drive side...XXX amount of pressure and a relief is opened. in the case of high boost and needed quick release of the throttle, a bov may be a good option. generally a single turbo, lower boost charger wont need it.

dont delete....post your solution or routing of wiring. possibly someone else may need similar info.

certainly they dont hurt, must diesels dont use them as most dont have a throttle plate. my 08, one of the first mods was to remove the throttle plate. if you have turbo bark issues, you can install one or look into a better matched wheel set.

i did not purchase those, when this all started i tightened the banjo. problem stopped, for a short while then returned. i did replace the banjo washers based on those actions...problem has not returned yet. the truck sat from 12-22-18 to 1-2-19, with the nose up after one restart of replacing the banjo washers. on 1-2-19 i cranked and it fired right up.

i just did the banjo washers....slowly reach in, find banjo and remove. the washers go right back on and tighten up. i went to a cummins dealer, the washers were $2 a piece ( packaged in pairs, so $5) and the square cut inserts for the tee came out to like $15. they were the expensive part. i did not replace those yet, as when i tightened the banjo, the hard start nose up symptom stopped.

how many miles on your current injectors ? i have the DAP aftermarket body 75hp...with like 60K miles on them. i am just now starting to think pop pressure is falling...slightly lopey at idle BUT i am also changing banjo washers at the back of the head first...rough nose up starts right now. i have a 4th gen style steering from napa, greaseable and not mopar junk. 40K plus and in good shape

confirm length, bushing conditions...and if all is good, crank the heck out out of the bolts. THEY NEED TO BE TIGHT !

http://www.e-transcontrol.com/products/

the 3rd gen wheel has a slightly deeper offset than a 2nd gen...possible (Likely) rubbing on upper control arm the H2 wheel has slightly lesser BS than 3rd gen, hence the no rub, and it is slightly wider, the tire should fit with the exception of control arm rub. i run a 285/75/17 on a 3rd gen wheel currently, i also have Metal Cloak control arms, thuren 2" (2.75" lift ) coils, and a synergy 3rd gen track bar amongst other 3rd & 4th gen parts

so, i have a friend who does HID conversions...he will polish and ceramic clear coat the lenses. i do not believe it is a ceramic coating for paint, but rather a clear coat with a ceramic base. either probably works fine. i would look for a 9H hardness if using ceramic coatings, it can help prevent rock chips, cracking.

Dynamic Transmissions...look him up !

my fuel boss is plumbed from stock pick up, stock hard line at frame. from there it is all 3/8 push lok. i still have factory filter house/heater installed, along with a fass ddrp that was on the truck when i purchased it. i had 1 piece of junk hang the return check valve open after install way back in 2014. not one issue since. i also see 22 psi when running, 24-25 at wot. not 22 psi at cranking, as pressure increases with rpm, so at crank, the psi is very low.

sounds like an aftermarket coil bucket mount...for dual shocks ( a bad thing, if stiff shocks are chosen) the factory setup is in coil.

the early 00's GM seats, the ford excab seats and various others have all been referenced. convertible chrysler sebring seat fit well also.

the 4600 if i recall were lifetime....the 5100 is limited lifetime due to being considered an OFFROAD shock. one in the same, but the 5100 offers longer lengths

what is the intended ride quality desired ??? the 5160 is slightly better valved shock for our trucks, but both the 5160 and 5100 along with ANY other OFF ROAD shock is going to be firmer and normal speeds and road condition. a generic cheapo gas shock is the easiest and best ride....may have to replace several times compared to the others. the coils are the real issue.... you might look into thuren fab overland shocks....they are a soft off road white body with really good reviews.

maybe it is just me, but my sport with bulb upgrades is fine. i have newer vehicles with projectors and yes they have farther, brighter output....but never have i felt like my sport was inadequate. sport conversion harness and brite box bulbzilla harness from genos is what i would look at if you want EASY, plug and play swap. that harness lights ALL 10 filaments, just as if i hold my high beam lever...works great. that said, i only do it temporarily if ever needed, as it is hard on wiring and switches...but it mimics what that harness can do

correct...hose technology isnt up to par iin the PRE-98.

from what i can see, that is the difference...it works on more vehicles. i have a 13 suburban, 17 GMC 2500, 02 Ram 2500...

the dash ( frame itself) will interchange...the features vary. 98-01 1500 98-02 2500/3500

more than likely, it is a broken wire in the element. look at CF 2nd gen GREY GOAT build thread, wade had a very similar issue sand chased it all out. how to test and locate the problem area

mike is there a reason that you selected the XL over the MX ? just the vehicles that you own dont have aneed for the MX ? i am looking at purchasinf one of the above, but having newer gm vehicles, i leaning on the MX version. Your thoughts...