Stormin08

you are gong to make it adjustable correct ? it shouldnt take more than a couple hours to fabricate, have materials ready...install bracket and measure...maybe trim to length and weld insert. Paint.

i run power steering fluid, usually once a year ( 15k miles) i juts turkey baster out the fluid and refill. almost 202k miles now

generally it is the driver side toe rod, that short end for some reason likes to break. my 08 did it within 15k MILES OF OWNING IT....it was a late build, and had the newer crossover when purchased.

all depends on the year....pre quad cab, your fine...install what you like. quad cabs have to have the seat belt addressed....either 99-07 chevy truck seats, some ford supercabs, or chrysler sebring. i have looked into seatbelt extensions like buses use, to mount the upper tie point to the quad cab door mount. then find a seat i like...but i will probably end up with a newer truck before all that work. local upholstery shop and grab some foam, glue and shape.

synergy 3rd gen conversion here...much better than stock setup for a leveled/lifted truck. i had a RARE PARTS HD adjustable 2nd gen bar...but my thuren coils put the ball joint angle in a bad spot, so i swapped to a 3rd gen...no real difference in results as the rare parts was fine.

your best bet is contact CJC offroad, of course BD or DOR can offer the same....BD probably alot faster...but an outside vendor will offer the info with more ease. i think my synergy bar is roughly 39.25"...very close to carli if i recall.

the thing that i see being the benefit of the 12, is the shorter time to totally lite. pulling, entering traffic, or even play....where is most of your time spent....down lower, once going how much room do you normally have, not much, so a quicker lighting turbo will edge you out and have them chasing you my little 2 gen outruns most newer trucks up to 3rd gear, by the time they start pulling....we are coming off throttle ( or i am art least), then it is all talk.

remember. the spring gate isnt a new idea....plenty of them out there. finding the correct spring is key, a trip into a TSC could net a few choices. what needs to be stated, is if one is found or even several that work within certain ranges, something like a fish scale to determine what LBS. pull the spring is will give others an easier adventure. i may grab a couple my next trip, just to post up some results.

I am currently running the NAPA pro chassis line for steering. I have a narrow 34" tire, and horrible roads. I want to say i have 2 yrs (roughly 25k miles) on it. It is a metal on metal ball design with grease zerks. So far, so good. Ball joints are synergy....dont think they offer them any more.

Didnt see this mentioned...but aside from other bolts comong loose...there is a KDP kit that does NOT require disassembly. It locates and drills a dowel from out side the case.

I recently spent a week on stock tuning...i removed the tuner for some diagnosis. I could not believe how quiet my truck was with a stock timing. I have noticed on long drives at steady speeds, the timing will adjust and quiet down...but this was almost an instant on throttle change. These VP injections are very loud...and timing worsens that. Now thatbthe tuner is back in....it is loud once again.

I have used several sets of 3rd gen ALUMUNUM factory step bars. The brackets are super easy to duplicate, and also extend slightly to a more useable postion (stock is too tight to the rocker). The aluminum should last far longer than any steel and they are easy and cheap to find on craigslist and parts yards.

I am currently in the process of wiring and installing a standalone efi unit in my 89 c1500. Even that companies forum indicates that some tuning iasues snd diveability issues of the SELF LEARN features are gindered by the choice of temp sensor they included with the kit. They recommend purchasing a stock replacement unit and using it ???? WTF ? So, what kind of junk is being sold/used/offered now a days....and how the hell can i tell if i have a good unit I now need mechanical gauges in that truck also (really dont wont them) as it will hinder the appearance. So now the stock wiring/ecu is going, and plans to make a cluster will stand alones goes on the list.

1. Does the WTS light illuminate when key is cycled ? 2. Look into any possible air leaks (fuel may not be present at leak), drawing air in when cranking...it happens alot. What is fuel psi when cranking ?

The decision tongo electronic vs mechanical will be a debate to the end of time. Once an issues arises....what does everyone say to do ? Get a mechanical gauge and verify. Hope that helps, and let it be known....my isspros will always be present...boost and fuel psi. Egt is another topic as they are electronic anyway.

I considered doing that, but tried to find the correct part. Without removing and seeing numbers on the bridge, i was shooting in the dark. Does your bridge have any part numbers on it ?

I am in the same boat...i bought a bridge from LarryB...but my stud exits out the side also. Cannot find a correct part number. I did find the brushes and bearings, but no bridge.

Remember...a spacer setup wont fix or help worn or sagging coils. A good coil goes a long way on the ride quality side of these trucks.

You can use a stock 3rd gen coil...and gain about 3/4 to 1 inch. 3rd gen coils will work...thuren, carli, synergy...they all sell a coil for 2nd and 3rd gen (same part number). But if advertised for a 3rd gen, you (2nd gen)gain about another 3/4". I have 2" thuren coils and gain 2.75 on the money...as he claims. If it needs a trackbar, i would dona 3rd gen swap, much better design.

The 2nd and 3rd gen trucks have different axles. 2nd gen are dana 60 front, dana 70 or 80 rear. The 80 was order option on 2500, standard on 3500 drw. The 3rd gen are AAM. That said, the later 2nd gen 00-up, can use the following....steering, trackbar with 3rd gen bracket, front brakes if using 3rd gen caliper mounts, rotors and pads. The coils will swap and most are advertised as suck...but the 2nd gen trucks net about 3/4" more in lift. If you choose the puck, at least do the shocks. The castor should be reset, and you really should do an adjustable trackbar.

Dont be intimidated...there is olenty of knowledgable support, and probably one of the most indepth tuner producers right here answering your questions... Nick has done plenty of tunes and variations to make morr than adquate recommendations

Well, maybe it is a model year thing. I will verify my build date, and see from here When search for bridegs...i get a bunch od this bridge fits XYZ series alternators....but i cant locate my numbers, and didnt think to write them down when i did try to rebuild it. I just reinstalled everything and went.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/charging---starting-16772/alternator-11425/f7cab2ae3cc0/2002/dodge/ram-2500?q=Alternator Using this as a reference, the top photo shows the 90 exit, and claims to be bosch rebuild... The lower is a straight exit, and claims ND rebuild. So, does every one here have the 90 exit bridge ? Mine has the tin rear cover and all in tact...

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/charging---starting-16772/alternator-11425/f7cab2ae3cc0/2002/dodge/ram-2500?q=Alternator Just as a reference photo...if this link works, you can see 2 different exits... 1 would appear to have the bridge in this article (which i bought)...the other has the exit point like mine (which would exit straight from the ring if the bridge). Mine is not a 90 degree exit. All i can see is sticker residue, i grabbed the parts to have on hand. Ac ripple has always been very low, but recently had some gremlins with DTC...my tuner failed and is now removed, and the various dtc's have not returned in a qeeks driving.

I dont see any numbers on the housing, i removed it to rebuild (have bridge, bearing and brushes)...but the bridge stud exits at a 90 like pictured. Mine exits straight...i was under the impression the the bosch was totally different. Every thing i have looks identical, mounts the same and fits accordingly...minus stud exit direction. My battery termianl cable bolts tonthe side of the housing with the factory cover included...not the rear of the housing like this bridge would suggest.