dave110

I'm with you there. Money is Ok for now but I am skeeered about the using part. I still have a flip phone! Maybe you and I can go to Quadzilla college together.

Cool. You can even get a replacement silencer ring for it. Thanks for the link.

Sounds like you already have figured out the best way to disable it. Could try stuffing it full of chicken feathers to dampen the sound .

You'll need to step up to ISSPRO to measure the boost output of that monster! Probably more than enough PSI to fill a tire. I'm pretty sure I need one of those. Where did you get it? Got a link?

I'm using whatever tensioner that was on the truck when I bought it ten years ago. The belt I mentioned took care of my squeekieness and it has not returned since.

Hey folks. I have a brother in law that's fallen on some hard times. He lives in the Laramie area and is a rancher by trade. He's currently working for an operation thats done by the end of the month. Along with his job goes the housing for he and his wife and 7 kids. He's trying the regular venues to find work with no luck. I thought I'd reach out to this forum since so many members are out that way. Some times word of mouth is the best advertiser. He's native to the Elk Mountain area and would like to stay west of the Mississippi if possible. He's a decent mechanic and can perform most all duties related to the farm/ranch setting. If anybody knows of any work for this guy, even if it's only temporary please let me know. It's greatly appreciated. You can PM or post a reply. Thanks all!

I see now. Mt uncle was a farm machinery dealer back around the time that truck would have been on the road. I thought perhaps it would have been a machinery hauler and would have been someone he would have known. Your project is really looking good. I wish I had the time and facilities to tackle a project like that. Thanks for the updates. I enjoy following this thread.

Ardmore PA.? Holy cow that's back my way. How's that truck ever end up the whole way across the country? Any idea who that TG Hayden was?

Wondering that as well. Maybe wipe it down with a greasy CFA wrapper?

If you have the time to let the truck down, having yours rebuilt would likely be cheaper. If any engine performance upgrades are in your future now would be the time to upgrade the trans as well. As for me when mine went I replaced the TC with a billet unit and did a "shade tree mechanic flush" of the system. That was over 60k ago and everything is working fine, but my trans did not have as many miles as yours. Hit up @Dynamic on here. He 's more of a 47re shop I believe but he could probably give you some good advice.

I have zero experience with the 68rfe. But the converter on my 47re acted the same way when it started to slip. The hood used to jump up and down so bad I was concerned the latch would pop open. I would bet your converter is starting to slip, especially if it is the stock one at 190k miles.

Wow, that was quick! Thanks guys. I'll try that test soon.

When I pull the IOD fuse I hear a click where the seat belt lock is. At that point the seat belt is locked. When I put the IOD fuse back in there's a click and then the belt is free. So in other words it takes power to keep the belt in the free position. Is that normal? Seems that would be a drain after a while. My truck usually only runs on weekends.

Congrats sir! Fine looking boy and fine choice of name. We need a few more Daves around here .

Got this one installed over the weekend and I'm happy with it. Used Walmarts install kit and wire pigtails too. Be warned though that the price is online only. It sucks that if you go into the store with cash in hand it costs $55, but if you order on line they'll ship it to your door for $37.

I started a thread a while back with pics and a video of the worn out joint. No money back. Didn't even try. How much time can I spend bickering with a big company like that for ~$100 worth of parts? Not worth while. First thing they'd do is blame the installer. I just moved on and saved myself a bunch of and continue to say to Spicer.

The original axle and drive universals are still in the truck. That being said when it was ball joint time I went with Spicer again. Mistake. They lasted 12k miles. Have AC Delco in now from Rock Auto. I went the cheap route with unit bearings on my 300M Chrysler. Twice they lasted just past the 1 year warranty and failed. I will only run Timken or SKF for a unit bearing, not because I'm suckered in by the name but because they are quality and it's too important of a part to go with Chinese junk. Some have reported SKF has a foreign line now but the industrial stuff we use at work is still USA made.

Amen to that. My brother is all I have left in my immediate family. Time sure moves on.

Now your'e starting to repeat yourself. It's worse than I thought

I can't quite say the same as you but mine have been switched for about a year and a half now. Either both on or both off. I turn them on to pre-heat and turn them off as soon as truck is running. I don't even bother using them if it'ts above mid 40's out. Best thing you can do to save your alternator. Thanks. This confirms my suspicion. Both operate for pre-heat and initial start and only one continues to cycle for post run heat. I've often noticed the amp draw is not as great once the truck is running for a few seconds.

Dunno. I'd have to look. I'll mostly play music from a thumb drive so no biggie if it's only single.

I didn't realize how cheap radio's have gotten until this thread. It got me looking even though I don't really need one. The USB and BT would be nice. I'm going with this one because I still want a CD player and AM radio capability. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Dual-Electronics-XDM280BT-Multimedia-Detachable-3-7-inch-LCD-Single-DIN-Car-Stereo-with-Built-In-Bluetooth-CD-USB-MP3-WMA-Player/189793346 And FWIW I tried connecting an old phone with no service to a BT stereo and it does work, so should work for Quad too. Had trouble getting a straight answer to that question. Probably the way I asked it.

Is there really no AM band or is that just a misprint?

I don't know. That's what I'm asking. It was often mentioned as a viable option. Now I don't know if it is or not. Is it? Not for me son, not for me

Mind elaborating? Going through the Quadzilla thread it's often suggested to just use an old phone. So you're saying a phone, not necessarily a smart phone, but a phone with BT can't be used unless the phone has service? I'd never talk or text while driving and like I said I have no plans on upgrading my flip phone. You said you have your music on the phone and I assumed you were transferring through BT. I was thinking of using an old phone for Quad and music. Again, must the phone have phone service for the BT to work? Sorry for the dumb question but like I said I know little about this new stuff.