hdpwipmonkey

I would see if I could find someone that has the in tank pump and measure their amp draw so you would have an apples to apples comparison but if a Fass (with a much bigger pump) is only pulling .5 amps than I would be suspicious of the little in tank pulling three times as many.

bussman from Amazon. Just over 3 years and no issues so far. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G5WHP2M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks John. Sorry for the confusion, I should of worded my initial post better. I feel better now.

I used @Mopar1973Man procedure in the articles section, same one that I used the last time. It references spinning the engine till you see BDC for the VP44 gear.

I did my valve lash yesterday while doing an oil change. This is the second time doing the procedure. I put the engine at TDC and did my adjustments, adjusting all the valves that were loose and that I could jiggle. I put the engine at BDC and started on the next set. While doing these I looked up the procedure on here to find out what the torque setting was for the jamb nuts and I noticed that one of the valves was loose (I could jiggle it) that wasn't on the list of valves to adjust while at BDC. I finished up adjusting the valves that should of been adjusted and rotated the engine back to TDC and checked the valves and there was one that was loose that shouldn't be adjusted. My question, is this normal. I dont remember the last time having any loose that shouldn't be but I'm pretty sure I just followed the procedure and didn't bother checking valves that weren't listed. So at TDC I had a exhaust valve in bank 2 that was loose that shouldn't be and at BDC there was an exhaust valve in bank 5. Is this normal and if not how do I remedy it? BTW... the engine is not any noisier and if anything its less clacky after doing the adjustment (I had some that I must of not set correctly last time).

Isn't Level 1 for power reductions? Valet mode? Copied this from the Quadzilla site:

I just saw this on Facebook

Yeah, I hate how I cant use all the display boxes on my phone because they overlap.

This is the breaker that I used. I have never had it pop yet. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G5WHP2M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just did the PCM grounds on my truck a few weeks ago as i was having an issue with my torque converter not unlocking when letting off the gas pedal. I will tell you when I finished and got in the truck to fire it up and back it out of the garage I had the "no buss" on the cluster. I went and checked my connections and somehow I didnt get a good crimp/solder and one of grounds pulled out. I fixed that and everything was good. No more torque converter issues either. Fixing those grounds is no joke!

He just got his PCM and ECM back from them

That sounds about par for the course for Autozone

control arms run from the axle to the frame one on the upper side of the axle and one on the lower side. These are both on the left and right side. In the picture below you can see a stock control arm in the upper position and an adjustable one in the lower.

We were talking about the crank sensor

mine came with the metal piece on it

for the crank sensor, I used an Autozone one and had to replace less than a year later. I have a NAPA one in there now and its been a little over a year and still going.

my guess is a standalone display for the Quadzilla

Well, after 2 years this issue has returned. Same issue. TC locks up and will only unlock if I put my foot on the brake or if under about 42mph. If over 45ish and I put my foot on the brake it will unlock and as soon as I take my foot off the brake it locks back up harshly. The only way it will stay unlocked is if I keep my foot on the brake until the speed is below the 42ish mark. We did just have a bunch of snow a few days before this started happening. The same thing happened the last time. Coincidence? I'm thinking when all that snow melts it allows water to get into the PCM somehow I will be pulling it into the garage this weekend to go through the grounds again and to fix the PCM ground splices that @IBMobile recommends. I'll reinstall dielectric grease into the PCM plugs too. Fingers crossed!

Geez @W-T your truck looks better from the underside than mine does from the topside

I just cut some pieces of fuel hose and pushed onto the studs and the BHAF sits on those. So far, no issues and its been that way for about 5 years.

Its all good. I know what it's like to have you your truck out of commission and waiting for some input. You sound like you're on the right track though so keep us posted. Also, I think that is a good idea to keep the grid heater disconnected till you figure that issue out too.

Are you talking about this screen?

what is the output of the new alternator? Should be about 14.2V. If its putting out the correct voltage and your batteries are reading almost dead then either there is a bad connection or there is a bad battery. You said you cleaned all the terminals so I would guess a bad battery. If you replace batteries you should do them both. Also, you should start your own topic with your own title. It makes it easier to keep things straight so folks are able to help you specifically. This topic although it is charging related (sort of) it is for a 1999 vs 2001 for your truck. Plus its considered bad form to high jack someone else's topic. Max tune just beat me...

Good to know. Thanks for sharing.

My wife takes my truck once in a while, I just make sure to de-tune it before she does. I need to make a "wife" tune