IBMobile

My rule of thumb is 'fix what you know is wrong first'. You know you have old weak batteries so replace them be for they die on you completely, then test the alternator for DC/AC out put and the linkage for proper adjustmet

I think that's it. The fuel demand of the VP is so great when under WOT and the comp box turned up that a suction is created between the VP and the lift pump drawing in air. It doesn't take much to create an air leak.

It means the ABS module isn't powering up. Check the fuses and ground for the module and ohm test the rwal solenoids under the module. If they are O'K then the module's internal relay is bad and the module needs to be replaced or repaired (see above). The dealer should have run a full diagnostic on the ABS system and given a written report.

I've heard of people having the same problem that you're having and had the quick disconnects. I think they changed them out to the push lock fittings and that took care of the problem.

Sounds like lack of fuel on demand, Air leak?

When I'm wiping my RV down I mix ammonia and water, about 16:1, in a spray bottle. I use it on walls, mirrors, windows, stove, microwave, even clean the carpet with it. The Ammonia works well on cooking grease and dirt. The best part is it leaves no residue so there is no need for rinsing. I clean the fridge with bleach and water to take care of any mold that might want to pop up. I'm lucky that I don't have to use that RV anti-freeze, sounds like a real pain.

That was me in the summer of '73'. Now I'm a slow screwdriver.

Good job! Now's the time for the reward.

Try this place for the hold downs. http://www.fixmyblinds.com/category-s/117.htm

Us Them Together

The only way to start a camp fire. I don't hike. ↓This is were the creek meets the lake.↓ ↓ Looking back up the valley with rocks↓

I would have told the service manager "Don't open your shirt, your heart 'll fall out".

I've used Simple Green, Grease Lightning, and in the old days solvents from a high pressure sprayer. I take the cleaner I have on hand and with a pump spray bottle apply it to the desired area and if the dirt/grease/oil is caked on then use an old paint brush to work the cleaner into the area. if you're using Simple Green don't let it sit to long it dries out quickly. I take a garden hose with spray attachment and rinse it off. Do this on a cold engine because a hot engine produces steam and that steam can infiltrate electrical connections, condense and cause corrosion. I'm sure others use the spray on stuff in a can an a high pressure washer but this is cheap and nothing special needed.

I replaced my heater core. Took my time and did it in less than a day that included A/C evacuate and recharge. I can see if you did a few of these heater replacements you could do it in a few hours. It's like Driply said " it is a little time consuming but not difficult ". Was that the beer supply house.

See if this video helps. I think its for a third gen model but it works the same as a 2ed gen. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KAclL84Qq8E&feature=youtu.be

See if this link to You Tube helps https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HtB3g1kk8Rg

Its a dry heat.

Sucks to be you Mike... Low this morning of 51°F and hi of 93°F.I know up north its a lot colder .

Hawkez, you need to start a new thread 'Need a new vehicle". We can all chime in and tell you what to buy and how to fix it. You'll need something like this.

Golly wow! I would have never thought that a company like www.rockauto.com could ever be wrong. Thanks for the heads up. OLDBLUE, check the wire coming off the oil pressure switch and see if it is taged onto the gray/black wire or goes to something else.

Oil pressure sender has three wires: gray/black is the signal wire to the ECM, black/light blue is the ground at the ECM, and the orange wire is 5volt supply from the ECM. I would cut open the wire harness at the oil pressure sender/ switch and see if those wires are there. I would all so check with the dealer to see if oil pressure sender can still be had. I did find this but it says sender/switch so which one is it? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1440064,parttype,4588

Why not take the oil pressure switch out and put an oil sender back in?

On that vibration, remove the front drive shaft and see if it's still there. If no, than problem with front drive shaft/ axle. If yes, reinstall the front drive shaft and remove the rear drive shaft and test drive. If vibration is gone than the problem is in the rear drive shaft / axle. If vibration is still there, problem is in transmission / transfer case.

Nice job on the cushions and I like the color. A heck of a MacGyver on the converter. Is that converter still UL approved?