IBMobile

Us Them Together

The only way to start a camp fire. I don't hike. ↓This is were the creek meets the lake.↓ ↓ Looking back up the valley with rocks↓

I would have told the service manager "Don't open your shirt, your heart 'll fall out".

I've used Simple Green, Grease Lightning, and in the old days solvents from a high pressure sprayer. I take the cleaner I have on hand and with a pump spray bottle apply it to the desired area and if the dirt/grease/oil is caked on then use an old paint brush to work the cleaner into the area. if you're using Simple Green don't let it sit to long it dries out quickly. I take a garden hose with spray attachment and rinse it off. Do this on a cold engine because a hot engine produces steam and that steam can infiltrate electrical connections, condense and cause corrosion. I'm sure others use the spray on stuff in a can an a high pressure washer but this is cheap and nothing special needed.

I replaced my heater core. Took my time and did it in less than a day that included A/C evacuate and recharge. I can see if you did a few of these heater replacements you could do it in a few hours. It's like Driply said " it is a little time consuming but not difficult ". Was that the beer supply house.

See if this video helps. I think its for a third gen model but it works the same as a 2ed gen. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KAclL84Qq8E&feature=youtu.be

See if this link to You Tube helps https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HtB3g1kk8Rg

Its a dry heat.

Sucks to be you Mike... Low this morning of 51°F and hi of 93°F.I know up north its a lot colder .

Hawkez, you need to start a new thread 'Need a new vehicle". We can all chime in and tell you what to buy and how to fix it. You'll need something like this.

Golly wow! I would have never thought that a company like www.rockauto.com could ever be wrong. Thanks for the heads up. OLDBLUE, check the wire coming off the oil pressure switch and see if it is taged onto the gray/black wire or goes to something else.

Oil pressure sender has three wires: gray/black is the signal wire to the ECM, black/light blue is the ground at the ECM, and the orange wire is 5volt supply from the ECM. I would cut open the wire harness at the oil pressure sender/ switch and see if those wires are there. I would all so check with the dealer to see if oil pressure sender can still be had. I did find this but it says sender/switch so which one is it? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1440064,parttype,4588

Why not take the oil pressure switch out and put an oil sender back in?

On that vibration, remove the front drive shaft and see if it's still there. If no, than problem with front drive shaft/ axle. If yes, reinstall the front drive shaft and remove the rear drive shaft and test drive. If vibration is gone than the problem is in the rear drive shaft / axle. If vibration is still there, problem is in transmission / transfer case.

Nice job on the cushions and I like the color. A heck of a MacGyver on the converter. Is that converter still UL approved?

Looks great to me. Now you don't have to worry about paint chips in the hood. I've seen that treatment used on a truck below the molding of the fenders ,doors, and rocker panels. Thanks for the rest stop spot.

I've pulled fuel tanks out of Astro vans Ford and Chevy P/U's and other cars. One person can do it. The fuel tanks aren't heavy but bulky. Two people with a full size floor jack make the removal and installation go real smooth.

He pulled me over. Said he was looking for you. I pled the 5th.

Congratulations are in order. A great find on a gently used clean truck. There should be many mile of happy motoring left in that truck. Still looking for that #53? If it is a 53 block you'll find the number on the lower right front side of the block, below and forward of the oil filter. I installed a Fuel Boss after going through one factory, two campaign lift pumps and reading 'brand A pumps are good' then 'brand A pumps are failing because of a bad production run' or 'the company was sold and their using cheaper part now'. For the electric priming pump I installed a cheap Airtex. I run with it up unplugged and will use it if the belt on the Fuel Boss brakes or I need to prime the system. The belt look like it will go 50k+ and to change it all you need is a ½ " opened end wrench. I'm running the ⅜" fuel line that came in the kit but if I was to increase power out put I'd install " line ½". When these trucks were under warranty one of the fixes for the lift pump problem was to remove the Carter pump on the side of the block and put a new fuel sender/lift pump combo in the tank. Your truck my have this combo either an AD kit or a draw straw. It's a good feeling seeing 17-18 psi @ idle and 20-21psi going down the road. . ↑ Cruising in the slow lane with 21psi ↑ ↓ The Y fitting in the fuel line from the tank goes to the top line with a check valve and the Airtex fuel pump. The lower line goes to the Fuel Boss at the front of the engine. The original metal fuel line is now the return line. ↓

I have 2 6v golf cart batteries in my 5er. I keep the 5er plugged in 24/7 and use the converter-charger that came with the rig does the work. The cells get topped up with distilled water every 4-5 mo.

This is great! You get a used camper, pull everything apart and then put back together they way YOU want it. You'll go out on the road with the comforting thought, 'I know everything works the way I want it to'. There's no beer cans lying around in the pics so you know the work is done right.

I have had Isspro gauges since 2004 and have had no problems at all. That price of $330 is a great deal! I payed $325 in 04 for boost, pyro and tranny temp with color matched pillar mount.

That's called remote start. I need one of those!

You could try filling in the hole then next to it drill and tap a new hole for the elbow. I had to take my boost elbow off the other day to put on the stock elbow and found it loose also. The stock elbow went in with no problem but when I tried to put in the boost elbow back in it didn't feel right. I taped the hole, I think it's ¼ NPT, and put the boost elbow back in. If I tightened it down all the way The elbow will be facing the inner fender and not the waste gate actuator. I backed it off a ½ turn for now and called it good.

I'll be there. I checked with the BOSS and she said I could take the time off but after she wants to go to Glacier National Park. I've opened a vacation account and I'm saving my nickels and dimes. I can bring a 10'x10' portable canopy, 3-4 nights of fire wood, and the coffee. The last time I saw a full eclipse, we were so up set that the moon had eaten the sun we sacrificed a case of beer. All was right after that.