IBMobile

That's great to hear and thank you in advance. There will be a bunch of us wanting to tap into that pool of knowledge.

Glade to hear it. What codes did they come up with.

Welcome, it's nice to have another diesel owner from New England. What town in the great Commonwealth of Massachusetts are you from? I use to do some carousing there, from Worcester to the Cape and down to Fall River.

You might have air entrained in the power steering fluid. For how long did you have the shuttering for?

Leaks at the high and low pressure valve core fittings are common enough that there is a tool to replace the valve without loosing the charge in the system. here's one of those tools but at this price it's cheaper for the do-it-yourselfer to fix it a different way. http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/AC58531/R134A-VALVE-CORE-INSTALLER/.

You need one that can read and clear SRS codes. The scan tool I use for that is a Launch Creader CPR129 There are other scan tools out there that are less expensive. The CPR123 will do the same thing for about $200 less. The only authorized sellers for Launch USA are: Mac Tool, Matco Tool, Cornwell Tool, and NAPA http://www.launchtechusa.com/assets/launch_retailer/dealers.html. There are a lot of cheap Chines knock offs on E-Bay and Amazon. They won't do all the functions and you can't up load new software to them.

When you disconnect the battery you can touch the two cables together. This will drain the capacitors right away with no worries of 'did I wait long enough'. There is no way to know what the problem is unless you see an open circuit in an SRS system or use a code reader to find it, fix it, and clear the code. I have found that the code will only clear with my code reader.

Born under a bad sign. That really sucks.

Black will work just fine. I did this Jeep 2.5l YJ motor and finding leaks on it was no problem.

Try this for the 01 shop manual http://www.slideshare.net/sfnsjhfdnsbndns/2001-dodge-ram-truck-service-repair-workshop-manual-download-15917639

I've had the seal in the water line fittings leak. Took them apart went to the RV parts house, matched them up, now good as new. Also check that the water pressure reducer is good. They are known to go bad and you get full city line pressure to the hose fittings. Replace the pressure reducer with one that has a gauge on it.Cost a little more but you know what you've got going into it. When you pulled your anode rod out did a bunch of deposits come out with the water? I know mine gets big chunks that get flushed out. One could have gotten into the line.

It gets real nerve racking for people when their house is threaten and they have to flee. A view from my house last year. The fire was set by a 14 year old girl.

That's a case of getting old if ever I heard one.

Here is where I put the relays for a mystery switch set up .

We had to do a bit of rethinking and engineering. A hole was drilled through the fascia board were the nest is and drilled a hole into the back of the box so a pipe can connect the two. The bees then go from the nest into the box and out. After a week of "training" the box was moved to the side and a cone put over the hole in the fascia and the hole in the back of the box was blocked. The bees are slowly moving into the box but they keep finding little gaps here and there to get back to the hive. We work on it after 10 pm, that's when they seam to be settled down and we can get things done. Working with out a bee keeper suit is a real adventurer and I wish I could run faster. My son has managed to cobble something together with my hunting jacket, pants, and the top netting of a ghillie suit that lets him work with the stirred up bees. the pipe between the bee coming from the nest bees going into the box fascia and the box

Hope you get some much deserved rest this weekend. YOU CAN'T FIX STUPID!

Every thing that Mike said is true for California and no smoke other than start up. The inspector plugs in to the OBD II port and check for codes and the monitor readiness. Not all of California gets SMOG tested. It's done by counties and in some counties it's done by zip code. With every state having their own test parameters, if any, makes it difficult to formulate protocol for compliance. It may be best to find out what the inspectors in your state are looking for and adjust to that or get yourself a friend in a state that doesn't require SMOG testing yet, and register it there.

That looks like oil/grease and smell will tell. Stick your finger in it and see what it feels like. Brake fluid is water soluble and washes right off.

Smog testing is a real pain in the pocketbook. I just did my son's car and this week I have to do my work van. I'm lucky because I take the vehicles to a smog and repair shop. I refer a lot of business to them that I ether can't do or don't want to do. They turn a blind eye to a lot of stuff on my vehicles and just pass them like the EZ under the hood.

I hate you! At least my truck isn't rusting out from under me, I don't shovel snow, and I wear a short sleeve shirt with out a jacket year round.

My wife thinks my wallet is an ATM with no PIN# needed.

Congratulations on all the good fortunes that you and your wife are receiving. May they continue for your family into the future.

I'm running the Edge EZ with a boost elbow and pull an 8,000 lb 5er with a boat behind that at 55+ up the 6% grades on the eastern side of the Sierra Nevada a few times a year. What ever you decide on make it so that it is easily removable so you can pass the SMOG test. Having any comp box under the hood is an automatic failure. I'd take the box out and leave the boost elbow on and drive it easy to be tested so as not to set a code for over boost.

Just solder it back together and it's good as new, all most.

What is the best way to flush this system? Is it take the return hose off at the pump, the steering box, or the hydro-boost?