IBMobile

My truck sits unused for weeks at a time. When I start it with the electric "jockey" pump unplugged, it builds operational fuel pressure within 1 second. The reason I run with the electric pump disconnected, the Airtex pump was putting out 16-17 psi and the Fuel Boss at idle will put out any where from 15-18 psi. The two different but almost the same fuel pressures made setting the Hobbs switch (pressure switch) a pain and the electric pump kept cycling on and off very quickly. I read somewhere that people where running the Fuel Boss with the electric pump disconnected or with out an electric pump in the system at all so: I tried it, I like it, and that's all there is to it.

It comes with all the hose and hardware you'll need and installs in 2-3 hours depending on if you put in a back up lift pump for priming and starting or not. I have an Airtex fuel pump in line but have it unplugged when I found that I don't need it for start ups. This link will give you the install instructions for the Fuel Boss. http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/images/PDFs/98.5-02-Fuel-Boss-Install-Manual.pdfoss

Get a FUEL BOSS. No wires, no fuse, no relay, just FUEL PRESSURE. .

I've changed a few boosters over the years. When they fail they can cause a rough idle or you might hear a hissing noise with no rough idle, or you might not hear anything when you step on the peddle. It all depends on the size of the leak in the diaphragm.

Has old fluid, old rubber, and may be a bad brake booster, no vacuum assist.

That's way you should take your vehicle to a shop that specializes in it. There is no way a shop can know all the in's and out's of over 20 makes. 100's of models over 20-30 years.

Fuse #6 powers up The park switch in the motor, pin 87 and pin 86 for the wiper motor relay (DB) dark blue wire. Fuse #6 does not power the high or low circuit of the motor. The wiper motor: low, high, and park switch, is grounded through it's body. The park switch all so runs to the wiper relay and central timer module (DG) dark green wire. Try running the wiper with 1. the relay out because that looks like it is only used for intermittent and park, and 2. with the DG wire disconnected from the motor. For testing a fused circuit You can get an auto reset circuit breaker, solder a wire to each terminal of the circuit breaker and the other end to a bad fuse. install the bad fuse with circuit breaker and run your testing with out having to replace fuses.

Mike are you saying that if a person is ASE certified he/she don't know what they are doing? I've been ASE certified master since 1980, have my own auto repair business since 1994, I charge $100.00/hr, and I think I'd be smart enough to wait for the rain to stop before I'd go into a field to work on anything.

Use a lower scale for the Ω reading. try the lowest first and go up from there. Is it fuse #6 that gets over loaded?

If you put a volt meter between the ground wire and ground you will see 12+ volts when powering up either the low speed circuit, br/wt wire, or the high speed circuit, rd/yl wire. Test the ohms resistance for both the low and high speed circuit. Should have some resistance, 50-100 Ω. The central timer module is in nothing more than a grounding control unit. Which fuse is over loaded.

May be this will help.

DITO

That's great to hear and thank you in advance. There will be a bunch of us wanting to tap into that pool of knowledge.

Glade to hear it. What codes did they come up with.

Welcome, it's nice to have another diesel owner from New England. What town in the great Commonwealth of Massachusetts are you from? I use to do some carousing there, from Worcester to the Cape and down to Fall River.

You might have air entrained in the power steering fluid. For how long did you have the shuttering for?

Leaks at the high and low pressure valve core fittings are common enough that there is a tool to replace the valve without loosing the charge in the system. here's one of those tools but at this price it's cheaper for the do-it-yourselfer to fix it a different way. http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/AC58531/R134A-VALVE-CORE-INSTALLER/.

You need one that can read and clear SRS codes. The scan tool I use for that is a Launch Creader CPR129 There are other scan tools out there that are less expensive. The CPR123 will do the same thing for about $200 less. The only authorized sellers for Launch USA are: Mac Tool, Matco Tool, Cornwell Tool, and NAPA http://www.launchtechusa.com/assets/launch_retailer/dealers.html. There are a lot of cheap Chines knock offs on E-Bay and Amazon. They won't do all the functions and you can't up load new software to them.

When you disconnect the battery you can touch the two cables together. This will drain the capacitors right away with no worries of 'did I wait long enough'. There is no way to know what the problem is unless you see an open circuit in an SRS system or use a code reader to find it, fix it, and clear the code. I have found that the code will only clear with my code reader.

Born under a bad sign. That really sucks.

Black will work just fine. I did this Jeep 2.5l YJ motor and finding leaks on it was no problem.

Try this for the 01 shop manual http://www.slideshare.net/sfnsjhfdnsbndns/2001-dodge-ram-truck-service-repair-workshop-manual-download-15917639

I've had the seal in the water line fittings leak. Took them apart went to the RV parts house, matched them up, now good as new. Also check that the water pressure reducer is good. They are known to go bad and you get full city line pressure to the hose fittings. Replace the pressure reducer with one that has a gauge on it.Cost a little more but you know what you've got going into it. When you pulled your anode rod out did a bunch of deposits come out with the water? I know mine gets big chunks that get flushed out. One could have gotten into the line.

It gets real nerve racking for people when their house is threaten and they have to flee. A view from my house last year. The fire was set by a 14 year old girl.

That's a case of getting old if ever I heard one.