IBMobile

That's why I opened my own shop 20 years ago.....I drink coffee when I want to.

If the window is down then it's a keyless entry. Replace the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitter batteries. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/ POWER LOCKS/REMOTE KEYLESS ENTRY TRANSMITTER - STANDARD PROCEDURE - RKE TRANSMITTER BATTERIES). Test each of the RKE transmitter functions. If OK, discard the faulty batteries. If not OK, go to Step 2. (2) Program the suspect RKE transmitter and another known good transmitter into the RKE receiver. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/POWER LOCKS/REMOTE KEYLESS ENTRY TRANSMITTER - STANDARD PROCEDURE - RKE TRANSMITTER PROGRAMMING). (3) Test the RKE system operation with both transmitters. If both transmitters fail to operate the power lock system, a DRBIIIt scan tool is required for further diagnosis of the RKE system. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information. If the known good RKE transmitter operates the power locks and the suspect transmitter does not, replace the faulty RKE transmitter. NOTE: Be certain to perform the RKE Transmitter Programming procedure again following this test. This procedure will erase the access code of the test transmitter from the RKE receiver.

I have my electrical fuel pump unplugged. if I need it I'll plug it in.

I need to do mine and when it's off I'll do the A/C evap. It being a Mopar dash is the plastic going to hold up any better than the last one or an after market?

The Driveway Queen is used about 75% for vacations and 25% for business, picking up engine blocks, rear diffs, hoods, doors, ect.

It was over 10 years ago that I put it in so I can't recall the size but it looks like pipe thread. The fitting is from a Parker store not far from my place.https://www.parker.com/portal/site/PARKER/menuitem 1. install sender unit into T fitting. 2. cut pipe. I used a small tube cutter. 3. take the pipe off the heat exchanger and cut off about 3/8" from it. use a hack saw for that. 4. slide compression fittings on both pipes. 5. install T fitting with sender unit on to the pipes and hand tighten the fittings. 6. reinstall pipe on to heat exchanger. 7. orientate the sender unit. 8. be sure the pipes are pushed in to the T fitting, then tighten the compression fittings.

After 3 lift pump failures in 75,000 miles put the Fuel Boss on. 17-19 psi 24/7.

The Driveway Queen has 81,960. Drove her 4061 mi last year.

and going...and going...and gone.

The cooling line that come out of the left front of the transmission is the 'hot line' from the torque converter via the l/u switch valve @ 5-57psi. It goes to the rear of the heat exchanger. The heat exchanger is on the engine's right side under the exhaust manifold by numbers 5&6 cylinders. The line coming out of the front of the heat exchanger goes to the trans cooler that is next to the A/C condenser. From the trans cooler the line goes to the fitting at the left rear of the transmission where it 'dumps' into the pan.

That's a good option and keep the old one as a spare. The machine shop labor should be about ½ hour, $30-$60.

This is way more info about burning wood than we needed!

In the hot line leaving the trans.

Take the pump block off and bring it in to a machine shop, let them do it. They have the experience and the tools to get it out and re due the hole threads. When you get it back reinstall and bled the brake system.

Not much of a winter here even for So. California standers. We burned about 1 cord of mix pine and eucalyptus for the whole winter. I sold 2 half cords of eucalyptus because I had so much leftover and more to split.

I'm thinking of going to Yellowstone this year. Your place is only a mere 10 hr away from there and at $12/night with discount it's a heck of a deal and the truck doesn't need any work.

Years ago I put a wireless camera on the back of my 5er so I could check on the boat that is tow behind it. The distance was to much and could not get a picture. It would work when the camera was 5 feet or less from the truck's rear bumper.

I have an HX35W

I've been running my EZ on #2 with a boost elbow. When I'm going up a long grade of 5% or more the boost goes to 26 psi and the settles down to 24 psi and stays there. Now that's with the O/D locked out and speed set at 55-60 mph with about a 9000 lb load behind me. There are no temp problems, defueling, or codes set. The fuel mpg is about 10.5 when I go north to Reno (there are several long 6% grades to go up) and 12.5 heading south to home.

The amps at the front door speakers are used to power the front speakers. My son changed out the front door speakers with 6x9's and kept the stock radio head. The front speakers have no base but the rear speakers sound good. I'll probably replace the radio with one that will power all the speakers.

Every thing look great and I really like that RAT FINK decal.

On some of the Volvos that I work on the Speedo get it's signal from the ABS control module. When the speedo goes out and the ABS light is on I open the module and solder the main power wire coming into the circuit board. You find that the solder joint is bad from the hot/cold cycling.

I picked up 5 Michelin 245/75R16 LTX A/T2 off the totaled van today. The fronts have 11/32", the rears have 12/32" left and the spare is new. I paid $185 for the 5 tires. It cost $25 to have them mounted and balanced with new high pressure valve stems at a tire shop that I do a lot of business with. Even though I went from the 265/75 to the 245/75 the price was just to good to turn down.

Welcome to the site. I wish you luck and smooth sailing on your move.

The sound that makes real men smile.