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My steering and suspension is bone stock with 265 tires and like Mike's ride I don't have any of the problems you all have. Do you go off road a lot or just bad roads or is it bad replacement parts.

That leak looks like the valve cover gasket. You can see the oil staining on top of the exhaust port and draining down to the head/block mating area. Take the oil cooler over to a radiator and see if they can pressure test it for leaks. I'd hold of pulling the head until I knew if the oil cooler was good or bad.

Disconnect orange/black wire pin #37 from ECU, Does light go out? If yes, bad ECU. If no, Ohm test that orange/black wire that runs from pin #8@ the instrument cluster to pin #37 @ the ECM and see if it's grounded. If yes, repair wire. If no, problem in instrument cluster circuit board.

Here's the Fuel Boss installation Instructions. http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/images/PDFs/98.5-02-Fuel-Boss-Install-Manual.pdf

When you have a question such as axle size or type call the dealer's service department and give them the Vin#. They can look it up and tell all the equipment and options that was installed.

Did a Google search http://www.complaintsboard.com/complaints/cargo-craft-inc-ambrose-georgia-c86442.html

You can also check for metal in the fluid by sticking a 'magnet on a stick' in the fill hole.

I did mine about 30k ago with 75-140 synthetic with 1 bottle of additive. I use Permtex® Ultra Black® on just about every thing I put together.

I installed the Fuel Boss 6-1-13 and 7,000 miles ago. There is an Airtex I put on at the same time but I don't have it plugged in, it's just there if I need a back up pump.

That's why I moved from Rhode Island. Spent this weekend in Palm Springs

Same for me.

I think you may have 2 problems going on. Fix what you know is wrong first, the starting. You know you have a weak /bad battery, replace them both. If you replace just one, the old one left in the truck will pull the new on down. When a head gasket leaks oil in to the coolant it looks like a chocolate milkshake, a light brown/tan color. If the engine was hydro locked you would have to take the injectors out so that the coolant/oil would have some place to go when you spin the crankshaft.and when you do spin it over the mix comes shooting out the injector holes. When it starts the exhaust would be full of coolant/oil and be smoking for a while. The oil in coolant my be from flushing it and/or the heater core plugged up? Head gaskets do "rot" out due to electrolysis and is a function of time, materiel, and coolant condition. This type of leak starts out slowly with coolant lose and is noticed before there is a catastrophic failure of the head gasket.

I put a 4" stainless steel Magnaflow exhaust on mine in 2005 by my self. It bolted right in from the turbo back with no problems. There is nothing wrong with the original exhaust system and it's sitting in storage.

I need to get some of that for my sister-in-law! She's all ways walking around like her's doesn't stink.

Check out Nash's Arctic Fox trailers/5th wheels. There made for cold weather, have heated tanks, R-15 insulation in the walls and roof. Options of storm windows or thermal pane windows. http://www.northwoodmfg.com/index.php

Congratulations Another milestone in your journey through life. It is now your child's job to shelter, feed, clothe, protect, and educate him. It's YOUR job to SPOIL him.

How was the company to deal with and has any one bought their dash pad? How much change in the ash tray?

The 2ed generation Dodge Cummins does not need a cat in CA. The reference to the cat was just for general info. Sorry for the confusion.

I don't think they would find it either. They just do a quick visual inspection to see if anything has been added or removed without taking anything off. Remember, time is money and they aren't getting paid to do remove and replace work. If the vehicle requires a CAT and it's been replaced the "new one" has to have the paper work to show that it is certified by the California Air Resource Board (CARB). CARB is the main reason you see auto parts marked "not legal for sale in California". Vehicles 14,000 lb or less need to be tested. If the vehicle is full time 4 wheel drive then it is not tested on the dyno, but given a static test.

How much weight are you pulling behind your 5th wheel?

Here in the great State of California you need a class A commercial drivers license to pull doubles and the max speed is 55 when towing.

Here in the great state of California if the diesel light duty truck is a 1998½ or newer with computer control it has to be inspected every two years or if it is sold. The inspection consist of: 1. is the check engine light on, 2. are the OBD 2 monitors set (P codes have not been cleared recently), 3. Under the hood inspection (no chip boxes, my Edge EZ is illegal and if left on would fail the test) and 4. Accelerator snap test for ANY smoke from the tail pipe (any smoke seen and the truck fails). To find out about state requirements and/or test procedures do a search, ( insert state name here) vehicle emission test / diesel emission test or stop by a test facility and ask the operator what they look for.

Be sure to torque all wheel nuts to 145 ft/lb. 134 ft/lb for a 2500. Some of the cars I work on will get a brake vibration if the nuts are not tighten down evenly and to the proper torque.

I've worked with cast aluminum cylinder heads,intake manifolds, engine blocks, bell housings, and transmission cases. I've found in some applications such as intake manifolds and bell housings the aluminum to be brittle. Flanges will snap off or a case crack if things aren't lined up perfectly, over tightened or forced. The aluminum alloy in cylinder heads and engine blocks seems to be a little bit softer. When cleaning old gasket material off with a razor blade care must be take not to gouge the surface. It's real easy to over tighten bolt and pull the threads out so it is important to torque all bolts to specification This week i'll be replacing front cam seals on a twin cam aluminum cylinder head with variable cam timing. I'll use a screw driver to pull the seals out and a small hammer and drift to install them.

If the housing is cast steel there's no problem removing the seal with a seal puller or screwdriver and tap the new seal in. If the housing is stamped steel you have to use due diligence on how much force to use. If the force needed to remove or install the seal seems excessive, remove the housing even if the manual says you don't have to.