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Kidlin88 is right about tranny shops. Find a highly recommended 1 owner shop that's clean. I've had to deal with tranny shops because I haven't done major trans repair for 20 years. I sublet or recommend a shop. I all ways ask for feed back on the repair. I've changed shops a couple of times over the yers because of bad feed back or the owner feeding me a lot of bull. Some shops have called to offer a referral fee if I send customers their way. Those guys you stay away from.

You've got a of of wood there ....... can I have some?

I get my byutle tap from the automotive paint supply store. It's the same stuff I use to in stall car windshields. You can get it in different thicknesses. For a trailer 1/4"-3/8" should do. The stuff gets real sticky and gooey when hot. I use small peaces of what's left over to hold bolts or nuts in sockets for those hard to get at places.

It all depends on the manufacture and grade of pad you use. Some manufactures don't do a good job of quality control.

Flush the brake fluid and power steering fluids.

I'll never use ceramic pads! The cars I work on get the semi-metallic pads. With quality brake pads the rotors will last 2-3 pad changes be for going undersized. With ceramic pad you'll be changing the rotors every pad replacement. Brake manufactures are trying to balance stopping distance,heat dissipation, longevity, dust, and noise.

I was able to incorporate the studs into the design of my home made heat shield/cold air box. If you don't need to use them then yes, cap them off so they don't damage your' air filter and if you need to reinstall the stock air box they're still there.

I left mine in place to bolt my shield also. I made my shielding from a heat shield that is used under a BMW that keeps the catalytic converter from burning the car down.

The wire that is tapped in those picks is the tan wire that goes to fuse #5. If you tap that wire you will need to put an inline fuse between the gauges and head light switch.

Use either wire for the hot (+) side of the blub. It's a DC system so it doesn't mater. I took my power of the orange wire at fuse #5. That fuse is after the light dimmer switch. Wired that way you will be able to dim the light and it will have a 5amp fuse protecting the circuit. This is how I did my 4 gauges.

Diesel4life is right. All the transmissions I see go bad after a flush have been neglected, never serviced. If you service it on a regular time/mileage interval you should see a long and trouble free life from it. The newer transmissions that service don't have a pan, just a cover over the electric shift solenoids and a drain plug on the trans' case. I wouldn't remove the valve body unless you were going to replace it. To check the line pressure you need an oil/transmission pressure 300psi gauge with a 6' or longer hose and the proper fitting for the trans, this is best left to do at a repair shop. There are 5 different ports to test at and it is a long procedure.

It sounds like the line pressure is low, could be due to bad fluid and/or internal seals and o-rings leaking. As the fluid heats up it thins out and goes around the worn seals and o-rings. I've fixed several cars and my own shop van by just taking the pan off, adjusting the bands, changing the filter, and refilling with Lucas and trans fluid. My shop van would shutter at freeway speed going up hills after driving for 50mi, the t/c clutch was slipping, that when it had 235k. It now has 285k. I wouldn't do a complete flush on it. I've had several cars towed in with bad trannies after a complete flush at a "lube and tune" shop.Why this happened I'm not sure but trans fluid is very high in detergent.

Splitting oak, pine, and eucalyptus. With a little help.

It's hard to shift in to all gears so what do they all have in common. Fluid, if low you with no could have hard shifting and worn bearings but it's been like that for 2yrs and no worn bearings, and you replaced the fluid with no improvement. you replaced the stock hydro's with some improvement, this is the clutch slave and master I take it. The only things that are left are the t/o bearing, pressure plate, clutch disk, and pilot bearing. I think the tranny need to come out and have those components inspected. "The pilot bearing supports the transmission inputshaft, maintains proper clutch assembly alignmentand allows the transmission input shaft to rotate at adifferent speed (RPM) than the engine mountedcrankshaft.When the clutch pedal is depressed (with vehicle indrive mode) the clutch disc slows and stops therefore,the transmission input shaft slows and stops as well.The pilot bearing allows the engine crankshaft tocontinue to rotate even though the transmissioninput shaft is stationary". page 6-18 of the repair manual

I still live here in the land of fruits and nuts. I should've gone in to the body shop business, I would've made a killing the way they play bumper cars on the road. Speed limit 65mph, everyone is going 75-80 with 1 to 2 car lengths between them. Front man puts on the binders and 3-4 cars go to the body shop. When it rains, just stay of the road. I try to drive in the slow lane and go 60: 1 I'm not in a hurry, 2 I save gas, 3 I have a commercial license and a ticket means double points on my record higher fine and no driving school to knock it off my record, 4 it pisses of the crazy drivers who want to use the slow lane as a way to pass the other cars that are only going 70. My wife got a ticket for 90 in a 70 zone. She said no way she could have been going that fast, right, that's way she drives a turbo Volvo.

Years ago a customer's car was towed in after hitting a dog. He said the dog was laying down in the road as if it had already been hit. The damage was a bent cross member, a broken power steering rack, engine and transmission pans bent into the oil pump and valve body respectively. It was a new Volvo with factory undercoating, dog hair was stuck all over the bottom of that car.

Did you lube the sides be fore you went through?

I agree. If the tranny fluid temp is 150, at the oil pan, than the fluid going to the pump is 150 whether if it coming from a 4qt pan or a 5gal pan. It takes longer to heat up more oil but conversely it takes longer to cool off. As for the heatsink aspect of the pan, the cooling fins would have to be a lot longer, more surface area, to be effective. An additional trans cooler, I think, would be more efficient because of the larger surface area.

I mainly use the truck to tow my 5er with the boat behind that, It's not my daily driver. As far a extra mileage goes I only took one trip in 04 with out it, I think my mileage was about 10mpg and any little hill the trans would kick down. After putting the EZ, boost elbow, and 4" exhaust on the trans doesn't kick down as much and the top end going up hills went from 55mph to over 65mph. I know now that going camping with a head or quartering wind 10mpg, with out 11.5-12mpg, and going home 13-13.5mpg. There are a lot more down hills going home.

Make it an extra large raw egg. The best I get is around 18mpg highway and 16mpg around town, and my truck has 76k miles on it so it's a little bit tighter. Check which size dif you have. If it's a 4:10 like mine you're a little out of the ball park. If the number is smaller, 3:72 or 3:55 your mileage should be in the 20's for highway. Get your vin# and call the dealer,they should be able to tell you what size it is. Some others may be able to tell you how get better mileage but the egg works for me.

It might just be p0562, system voltage low. I've come across that one a few times on Volvos with dead batteries.

11-12-13 regular $3.389/gal diesel $3.799/gal

If you don't replace both batteries the old and weaker of the two will draw down the new one.

"That seems sufficient to me" I agree.

OOOh that's nice, but not cheap. It pays to have the right tool and it be reliable.