IBMobile

Years ago a customer's car was towed in after hitting a dog. He said the dog was laying down in the road as if it had already been hit. The damage was a bent cross member, a broken power steering rack, engine and transmission pans bent into the oil pump and valve body respectively. It was a new Volvo with factory undercoating, dog hair was stuck all over the bottom of that car.

Did you lube the sides be fore you went through?

I agree. If the tranny fluid temp is 150, at the oil pan, than the fluid going to the pump is 150 whether if it coming from a 4qt pan or a 5gal pan. It takes longer to heat up more oil but conversely it takes longer to cool off. As for the heatsink aspect of the pan, the cooling fins would have to be a lot longer, more surface area, to be effective. An additional trans cooler, I think, would be more efficient because of the larger surface area.

I mainly use the truck to tow my 5er with the boat behind that, It's not my daily driver. As far a extra mileage goes I only took one trip in 04 with out it, I think my mileage was about 10mpg and any little hill the trans would kick down. After putting the EZ, boost elbow, and 4" exhaust on the trans doesn't kick down as much and the top end going up hills went from 55mph to over 65mph. I know now that going camping with a head or quartering wind 10mpg, with out 11.5-12mpg, and going home 13-13.5mpg. There are a lot more down hills going home.

Make it an extra large raw egg. The best I get is around 18mpg highway and 16mpg around town, and my truck has 76k miles on it so it's a little bit tighter. Check which size dif you have. If it's a 4:10 like mine you're a little out of the ball park. If the number is smaller, 3:72 or 3:55 your mileage should be in the 20's for highway. Get your vin# and call the dealer,they should be able to tell you what size it is. Some others may be able to tell you how get better mileage but the egg works for me.

It might just be p0562, system voltage low. I've come across that one a few times on Volvos with dead batteries.

11-12-13 regular $3.389/gal diesel $3.799/gal

If you don't replace both batteries the old and weaker of the two will draw down the new one.

"That seems sufficient to me" I agree.

OOOh that's nice, but not cheap. It pays to have the right tool and it be reliable.

I's not the band adjustment. Shifting occurs when line pressure becomes greater than governor pressure. The shift points can be adjusted by the transmission 'kickdown' cable. The more play in the cable the lower the shift point, it's like taking your foot of the throttle with out doing it.

What kind of compression tools are you talking about, engine compression gauge?

It's still going down.11-5-13 $3.419/gal, diesel $3.819/gal.

Flagmanruss, can you just get a ball by its self, stick it in and see what's going on?

Here in sunny So Cal I wax may truck every 3 months and clay it every 2yrs. The clear coat on the roof is just starting to show signs of failing. I still have the pad under the hood but it's starting to sag above the injection pump area.

The band will be fine if it didn't cracked and I don't think 30 ft/lb will do it. You say the threads in the case are fine then I think you dodged a bullet and should be fine.

I have a magnaflow 4" and I'm sure there is more than 1/8"clearance. Either the pipe bracket was put in the jig wrong or a broken motor mount letting the engine tilt to one side is all I can think of.

Picks of the bracket I made and where it is on the left frame rail.You can see holes in the bracket that were for the Carter pump and filter housing that was on there before.

When one door closes another opens. Good luck with the new home and country living.

11/2/13 $3.459 gas, $3.849 diesel

Before I put my Fuel Boss on I relocated Carter "campaign" pump to the frame. I made the bracket out of sheet metal from an old AAA sign. Cut a piece out of it about 12"x12" put it in a vice, heated it with a torch and beat on it with a 4# hammer till it had a 90 degree bend in it. Marked out where to drill the holes for the pump and a spin on prefilter. The other side of the bracket was slipped behind the metal fuel lines and bolted to the frame with #12 sheet metal screws and fender washers. I'm still using the bracket for an Airtex pump that's used to prime/back up the Fuel Boss. Don't forget to paint the bracket if it's made of steel.

And the roads in R I are as good as here in CA "put you'r kidney belt on Ma, we're go for a ride." So much for HIGH gas tax = good road maintenance. :banghead:

I have ammo on hand. There's a Wal-mart not far from me and everytime I went in I picked up a box or two of this or that and put it away. I took inventory last spring and had a yard sale, made $1,000 on ammo I didn't want. Wolf 223, 150gr 30-30, lead 22lr, 9mm, and other stuff. the other day a friend stopped by to show me the box of 150 rounds of 223 from Wal-Mart for $75, that's .50/round.

I had a customer's car that drove me nuts. The only time the temp gauge would go above halve way and climb into the red was at freeway speeds, 70mph or higher. I'd replace the radiator about 1 1/2 yr before, so I checked fanclutch, temp sender, temp gauge, voltage stabilizer, and thermostat. I then checked the radiator, found it plunged over 50%. I had a rod out done at the radiator shop and no more problems. The higher the speed the more fuel burn, the more heat, and a blocked radiator just can't get rid of it.

The cheapest fuel today 10/30/13: regular 3.54/gl, diesel 3.89/gl, at the no name mom and pop station.