IBMobile

Can this be a back door way, along with all the other things the administration is doing, to get around the Second Amendment? With out ammo a rifle is a club.

One thing I've learned, if you'r going to unplug ecm's pcm's ecu's or another control unit in a vehicle is to disconnect the battery. I've seen voltag spikes over 100voltes when a control unit is pluged back in with battery voltage going to it. The newer vehicles with the can system (combined area network) are even more sensitive.

Shortage here too. Califorina just signed into law no lead ammo for hunting after 2015.

They look just like the 9004 blubs that are in it now. They slide right into the holder, twist the retaining ring on, and plug it in, there's no mods to do.

I went to my supplier's warehouse to day and and yes they had them. The 9104 blubs with no R, 100/80 watt, for $5 each so I picked up 2 more.

I just binged ( not googled ) "truck cab heater" and all kinds of things came up. I'm sure some one that lives in cold country has experience with them. Here in San Diego by the coast, if it gets to 42 we think it's a 3 dog night.

I called my supplier just now and he couldn't find a listing for the 9104R blubs, but this guy is not the sharpest knife in the draw to deal with. I'll be going to their warehouse in San Diego this week and ask someone else there.

The brake fluid should be changed every 2yr or 30k mi. It absorbs water and over time the boiling point goes down and will give a soft brake peddle. The other problem will be rust in the brake master cylinder and calipers. I use ATE dot 4 fluid with a boiling point of 500 degrees. Cost is about $8/liter

My mistake. The blubs in my truck are Flosser 9104R. There are some threads over at Diesel Truck Resource about them and the number they use is 9104 with no R. The R is for rally. I get them from one of my wholesale suppliers and the box is marked 9104R. I found some 9004 made by Hella part #HLAH83155131 @4WHEELPARTS.COM on page 20 of the light section for $7.99. There are some PIAA EXTREME WHITE HEADLAMP BLUBS @ IPD.COM that are 65/45 watt (equivalent to 120/95 watt) that are DOT approved @ $92/pair. I'll call my supplier tomorrow and see if they still have the 9104R in stock.

I put 9004R blubs in my truck when I first got it. Low beam is 80wt and high is 100wt and no they did not melt the plastic. I still have the stock driving lamps in the bumper but if they get broken I'll go with a set of off road lamps. I've never seen the cops cut the wires to the lamps here in CA for two reasons #1 They wouldn't know which wirer to cut and #2 there's no money in it, they would just wright you a ticket and have the state/county get the money.

For all my trailer needs I go to the local MOM & POP shop, Freeway trailer supply in Escondido. They have the right stuff at a fair price and they know what their talking about. NAPA is over priced on most of their parts and a lot of it is made in China and when I go into Walmart they ask if I want to super size my order.

Problem fixed. Just came back from my fall fishing trip and drove 1400 mi and over a 9600" pass with no power problems. The loss of power must have been the unplugged data link from the Edge e-z. With the map plugged in and the data link unplugged the check engine light would not come on and over boost code not set but the ECM would still see over boost and "defuel" the engine.

'Then they came for me, but there was no one left to protest'.

I replaced the tires on my 5er last year. After I did a bit of checking around, the only thing I came up with was people complaining about this or that tire being a piece of junk. No one posted what a great set of tires they have. The trailer came with Maxxis, model M8008, load range D on it they lasted 9 yr and no problems, so I put another set of them on last October. I've put about 2200 mi on them with no problem. Tomorrow I leave for a 1000 mi trip with the trailer and the tires check out o'k pretrip. My trailer is just over 8000 lb.

My son and I split about 3 cords over the Labor Day weekend. Rented a 27 ton splitter. I picked it up Friday afternoon and was told to bring it back on Tuesday morning, cost $87 for the weekend. That weekend the temp was around 100, now there down around 75-80 in the day and nights around 55-60. My wife says there's a nip in the air. Next week I'll be in the Sierra Mountains at 7100' fishing for 10 days. Temps about 65 in the day and 35 at night. I pack about 3 wheelbarrows of wood in the boat for the camp fire. - - - Updated - - -

Is this where the saying " I so mad I could eat glass" came from?

After 43 years of working on cars and light trucks I've only seen a rubber brake line fail from inside out once, due to an owner topping off his brake fluid with ATF. So jack it up and see which one is sticking.

Sounds to me like your torque converter is going bad. Check the condition and level of the trans fluid. A trans temp gauge would help also because when the converter and other components, IE bands and clutch packs, start to go bad the temp jumps up to over 240 degrees in stop and go driving. You might want to have a reputable transmission shop do a once over.

Factory setup is a steel line from the filter to the vp. It must have been changed.

That's where I have mine. With it between the filter and vp you'll know if there are any problems from the filter back.

I's all about power and money. The government has the power and they want your money.

When I do a flush I put distilled water back in with antifreeze due to the tape water here is very hard, full of minerals. This helps cut down on electrolysis in the cooling system and prolong the life of the heater core and other components.

Keep the A/C on to keep the window clear. When air first come into the hvac unit it's drawn in by the fan and is blown across the a/c evaporator to dry and cool it. The air is then routed by a blend door which will either send it to the vents of through the heater core and to the vents. The blend door reacts to the position of the heater control knob. The a/c is automatically turned on when the defrost mode is selected to dry the windshield.

I think you're talking about the condenser, that's what's in front of the after cooler. The evaporator is located in the dash. The high pressure lines bolt to it, with an o-ring between the fitting and the condenser. The lines to the dryer/accumulator are a push-snap type and need a special tool. It's a common tool that is also used on high pressure fuel injection lines. they come in different sizes and NAPA or Harbor Fright should have a set of them. I don't know who could make up hoses for you but the high side of an A/C system can reach pressures of over 350 psi when the outside temp is over 100. NOTE: An after cooler is used between the turbo and the intake manifold. An intercooler is used between two turbochargers. Volvo is the company that missed named it in 1982. I was a mechanic at a Volvo dealer when they first came out with it as a factory kit you could put on. Marketing thought it sounded better to call it an intercooler. The rest of the manufacturers went with it.

once again