IBMobile

After 43 years of working on cars and light trucks I've only seen a rubber brake line fail from inside out once, due to an owner topping off his brake fluid with ATF. So jack it up and see which one is sticking.

Sounds to me like your torque converter is going bad. Check the condition and level of the trans fluid. A trans temp gauge would help also because when the converter and other components, IE bands and clutch packs, start to go bad the temp jumps up to over 240 degrees in stop and go driving. You might want to have a reputable transmission shop do a once over.

Factory setup is a steel line from the filter to the vp. It must have been changed.

That's where I have mine. With it between the filter and vp you'll know if there are any problems from the filter back.

I's all about power and money. The government has the power and they want your money.

When I do a flush I put distilled water back in with antifreeze due to the tape water here is very hard, full of minerals. This helps cut down on electrolysis in the cooling system and prolong the life of the heater core and other components.

Keep the A/C on to keep the window clear. When air first come into the hvac unit it's drawn in by the fan and is blown across the a/c evaporator to dry and cool it. The air is then routed by a blend door which will either send it to the vents of through the heater core and to the vents. The blend door reacts to the position of the heater control knob. The a/c is automatically turned on when the defrost mode is selected to dry the windshield.

I think you're talking about the condenser, that's what's in front of the after cooler. The evaporator is located in the dash. The high pressure lines bolt to it, with an o-ring between the fitting and the condenser. The lines to the dryer/accumulator are a push-snap type and need a special tool. It's a common tool that is also used on high pressure fuel injection lines. they come in different sizes and NAPA or Harbor Fright should have a set of them. I don't know who could make up hoses for you but the high side of an A/C system can reach pressures of over 350 psi when the outside temp is over 100. NOTE: An after cooler is used between the turbo and the intake manifold. An intercooler is used between two turbochargers. Volvo is the company that missed named it in 1982. I was a mechanic at a Volvo dealer when they first came out with it as a factory kit you could put on. Marketing thought it sounded better to call it an intercooler. The rest of the manufacturers went with it.

once again

stupid is as stupid does:doh:

FROM a non liberal bunny-shooting Californian: I call these bike riders bumblebees. They all wear the tight fitting bicycle clothing for racing and most of their team colors have black and some yellow. Saturday and Sunday they are out in swarms of 25 to 200+ depending if its just a practice or a full blown race. On any other day they're out riding 3 abreast, ridding the wrong way on sidewalks, or blowing through stop signs and red lights. The always say they have the same right to the road as a car or truck which they do, I just wish they would obey the laws of the road or get the same ticks we motorist get.

My wife had bad knees (see's had them both replaced now) so I installed a set of Lund 80" aluminum running boards. They are from Summit Racing Equipment, part# LND-291130. I think I had to get the EZ custom fit brackets part# LND-300013 to mount them. The cost was $209.95 plus $5.00 non standard package fee. This is a May of 2005 price. My wife likes them because they are wide to stand on, and she would use the steering wheel to help pull herself in.

Good going. Did the install go well? What do you get going down the road?

I too have hearing loss being an auto mechanic for over 43 years. I've seen the ads in the paper for super new style hearing aids but thought it to be a bait and switch or some overpriced piece of junk. I know I should have them checked to see how much loss I have but being able to tell the wife I didn't hear her tell me to do something is priceless.

Not to hard to do just take your time. Use new o-rings when refitting components and coat them with PAG oil for lubrication and don't over tighten the fittings, about 25ft-lb is all that's needed . The expansion valve is in the high pressure line after the condenser and before the evaporator. On my truck it is in the high pressure pipe next to the right battery. It's where two pipes are joined and aluminum heat tape covers the joint.

If the ends of the hoses, compressor, and condenser were not capped off dust, dirt, and moisture has contaminated them. The system should be flushed and the expansion valve replaced along with the accumulator. The system then needs to be evacuated, charged and leak tested.

I have the large pulley. It pumps what I need with stock vp and injectors.

It could be coming out of one of the shaft seals. Power steering pump pressure can be as high as 1300psi depending on what the release is set at. Fill the pump' clean the box of with brake clean, drive it around town to heat up the fluid. Check the box with some full lock to lock turns and see if anything comes out.

I didn't get any adjustment tool with mine either. I eyeballed adjusted it, loose but not so as to jump off the cogs. Thanks for the heads up.

Pressure in my Fuel Boss dropped to 14 @ idle 16@ cruse and 21@ wot. I removed the fuel pressure regulator and found it stuck open. I blew through it the other way and pushed out what ever was holding the valve open. Now it's back to 19@idle and 21@ wot.

I took a bunch of them apart back in the day. If your ring, pinon, and spider gears are ok than just change the bearings. The axle housing that Dana makes is so well machined that I'd press off the old bearings and press on the new ones using the same shims, never had a problem with noise. If the gears are worn then It a lot of work and a pain in the a@@ to set up. This you want to leave to a pro. Get the pinon depth and prelaod or ring gear backlash and contact pattern wrong and your tearing it back down. I'd get a used one put that in and keep the old core as a rebuild unit.

That's what I'm starting to think all so. If I unplug the EZ the check engine light will come on setting a code P0234 engine over boost condition? The description of the MAP sensor on page 14-103 states "Engine protection is used to derate (drop power off) the engine if turbocharger pressure becomes to high." I can't find at what psi is to high. I might have to take out the boost elbow, be fore it was put in max boost was 18psi.

No typo. This is live data. the boost gauge on the A post reads 0 at idle and 26-28 wot. The live data only comes in metric so I have to convert it. The data came in at 101 kPa (14.65 psi) engine off or at idle, this is close to atmospheric pressure and the same base reading I had 3 years ago. Now that said, the wot reading of 217 kPa (31.37psi) is higher than the base reading of 200 kPa (29.0 psi) so it looks like my boost gauge is of by at lest 3psi. At what pressure does defueling take place? NOTE: As the rpms go down so does the boost pressure and still no power so would the defueling problem correct itself until the next over boost?

When I first got my 5er I went to Home Depot and bought rigged foam insulation sheets with foil, some 4'x8'x2" and 4'x8'x4". I cut to fit and glued them under the floor and on the inside of the compartments. I used Liquid Nails for the gluing. I then pulled the front cap up and the cover under the sleeping area and installed R-13 insulation. The 5er came with tank heaters so that part was covered. I do have to let the water run so the hose from the bib to the trailer doesn't freeze.

Thanks for the feed back guys. MAP pressure is 14.65 psi @ idle and 31.47 psi on a hill wide open and not towing. I opened the EZ box and it was as clean as new. The exhaust is 4" and straight through and I don't think the turbo would spool up if it was blocked. The only time I notice the lack of power is when I'm towing. The truck runs great when empty. :banghead: