IBMobile

Put the fuel boss on with stock filter and an Airtex pump as a backup. 15 psi at idle and 20 psi at 1500 rpm and up. I have the Airtex unplugged and will only use it if the belt breaks or prime the system.

I'll probably start burning in late November. This week the highs of 75-85 and lows 59-62

Butyl tape is used in auto glass installations but it gets very soft in hot weather and will be a black gooey mess. I would Not use it on roof repair.

I put the Edge EZ with the boost elbow on and it did wonders for towing my 5er.

I go to the u-pull-it yards all the time. The problem; is the vehicle you need there, is the part you want still on the vehicle, and is the part better than you have at home. You can spend a lot of time and get nothing or score big. What I've found is the starter motors and alternators have all ready been replaced and most of the time you don't know who rebuilt it.

Very nice wright up and like the pics.

The trailer on you tube, or google hornet's nest.

From the base where it rotates up looks like my engine hoist with a cable wench on it.

I read some where and a few years ago somebody with an automatic had trouble keeping the trans temp down when plowing and put a trans cooler with fan under the truck. I think he hung it from the trans with home made brackets.

I have an engine hoist in my shop and it is not light. My buddy takes it over to his place sometimes. When he does we have to brake it down for transport. Those parts are heavy, and you would be manhandling them by your self once a month.

Hot summer day and the wife take the truck to the store, Her car was in my shop getting a hvac fan motor. She calls me up an hour later, "the truck wouldn't start". I drive over with the shops work van and put the scan tool on. Code p0230 transfer pump circuit out of range, running a Fuel Boss pump with back up electric pump so no big deal. I clear the code and try to start. The engine turns over not real fast and no start. O'k wife is hot could care less about doing diagnostics and wants to go home. I have it towed to the shop and put the wife back in her Volvo. An hour later I turn the key and it starts up with the check engine light on. It's the dreaded p1689 NO COMMUNICATION BETWEEN ECM AND PM. Take the truck out for a 30mile drive, park it for 30 min. and no start. The engine turns over slowly and then not at all. Batteries are 2 mo. old and voltage is 12.7. Voltage when cranking 10.5-11 then drops to 9. so it's a bad starter motor. The starter motor was replaced 8/21/08 with a lifetime warranty part from NAPPA . I retested with the new starter and no more no more hard /no start hot or code p1689. So in conclusion I think a bad starter motor drawing the voltage below operating parameters caused the ECM not to "see" the VP and therefor set code p1689. What do you think?

I think Home Depot is selling them...... in Europe

Some guy around here had a lot tucked away so you couldn't see it from the street. A lot of the tree trimming business would unload their trucks there instead of the land fill to save money. He had 2-3 Mexicans working it, splitting and delivering. He made a good living at it till he died.

Here in the great state of Confusion, the Government wants you to buy it where you burn it or burn it where you buy it. This is so bugs and diseases don't get moved around. Right now I have about 6 cords of pine, eucalyptus, oak, and who knows what in the mix.

I've got one of those Harbor Freight chain sharpeners. I bought it on sale a couple of years ago. My son says It works great, fast and easy to use. I have a Stihl Farm Boss with 20" bar and 3 chains to keep sharp.

That fluid is 5+ years old! The mechanic that did the work is a _thief_ charging for work that's not done. I hope you #1 got your money back and #2 reported him to the proper state authority. A fluid flush every 2-3 years or 30k-45k mi and you wouldn't worry about rust or anything else in the brake system. As for taking the calipers off and disassembling them for inspection; if you have the know how, the tools, and the time, no problem. If you have a mechanic do it the cost is going to be in the hundreds of $ and it might be cheaper to replace them with rebuilt parts.

I had a set of 4 Cooper A/T's on the truck. The tread just pealed off at 70 mph and beat the right rear fender in. Cooper paid me $1000 for the damage. Then another one on the right front started to come apart. I could feel it in the steering and took the tire off before any damage was done. That's when I put the Wranglers on.

My 40+ years of working on cars have almost all been with Volvo. With that being said all the cars that had clutch cables before 1983 had a spring attached to the through out arm that would hold the bearing off the p-plate when not engaged. 1983 and newer did away with the spring and the factory spec is 5mm of negative play (slack) between the cable and t/o arm so the bearing is resting on the p-plate. All the hydraulic actuated clutches I come across In the newer Volvos and other vehicles have 0 play. As for getting in there to lube it, very hard to see in there let alone lube it.

Go to Tirerack.com or some other review site and see what their customer survey has to say. I'm sure some of the fine folks on this web site have had experience with one or the other brand of this type of tire. I do know that I won't be buying the Wrangler All-Terran because I don't need the aggressive tire pattern in So-Cal.

We all need to get out and smell the campfire.

Do spruce trees have pine cones on them?

The t/o bearing my have lasted longer with the part being greased. Looks like it never fully released from the pressure plate. Any added stress on a part will shorten it's life span. IE: if a part is designed with a 100k mile life span and an uncalculated force / load is applied a premature failure is inevitable. By the way how were the fingers on the pressure plate?

100LL is the only aviation gas to be found at most airports. The LL stands for low lead and was introduced in the mid 70s so it has been around for a while. The lead is used as a lubricant in gas somewhat like the sulfur is in diesel fuel. In the 80s when leaded fuel for cars was discontinued pre 1975 engines were having valve problems. The valves would wear into the valve seats or as we called it "valve rescission". The fix for this was a valve job and replace the seats with harden ones. The ave gas around here is as low as $5.37/gal at Borrego Springs, CA to $8.20/gal at San Diego International. They won't sell it in a can, it has to go in the wing of the plane. It has to due with the road tax that hasn't been paid on it.

What happens in my shower stays in my shower. For wallpaper that won't come off problem, I've done it two ways. Either skim coat over the wallpaper with joint compound or cover over with 1/8" drywall. The skim coat way is E-Z and cheap. I did it in a kitchen 15 years ago and it still looks great.

When I redid my bathroom and took it down to the studs I added R-13 insulation to all the walls. It helps keep extraneous noises from escaping.