IBMobile

Just put in a new dash with that new heater core and evap and save some time. http://www.lmctruck.com/features/de/DEDP1.htm?utm_campaign=20150209_DE_Customers_1998_2002&utm_source=et&utm_medium=email&utm_content=Main_Dodge_Dash_Image

If you just want to read codes you can buy a cheap code reader for about $50 and up. Their are so many out there with some giving just codes, while others give codes and live data, and others will graph the data. I have two code readers a Launch 129 and a Matco Tool MD1032. I use the Matco reader more even though it is less capable. It gives me the info I need. You should buy what you really need. If you just what to read codes get an inexpensive one but if you want live data and other options then the sky's the limit. Don't forget to read the product reviews and watch out for Chines junk knock offs.

It looks interesting. They have everything for a DIY guy. I like that its tint able with colors like " jungle love" "don't yell at me", and "blood bath". I wish I'd known about the Chassis Saver™ when I was redoing my boat trailer. I did some looking around and this stuff is real popular with the off road and down in the mud 4x4 sites. I didn't see one bad thing about it. Keep us up to date on this project.

Some JBweld ® Kwik™ mixed will seal it in a pinch.

How about a spray in liner like Line-X® http://www.linex.com/ or Rhino Linings® http://www.rhinolinings.com/

I cleaned mine with Meguiar's® Plastx™ clear plastic cleaner and polish last April. I used a drill with a foam pad to clean and polish but did not spray them with any sealer. A customer had his done professionally and sprayed with lacquer. 6mo later they were yellow and the lacquer made it worse.

Had our Thanksgiving meal today already. Now we can go out tomorrow and serve those less fortunate.

Had my trans rebuilt at 63K. Front band went out and all the junk,( band and clutch material) , took out the torque converter. I did a lot of backing up with my 5er and didn't have a trans temp gauge so I cooked the fluid and destroyed the transmission. I haven't had a problem since.

It hasn't been a priority with me. Living in So Cal it hardly ever rains, been in a drought the last 4 years. The last time the truck was driven in the rain was the second week of last May when I was in Wyoming. If I was to fashion something it would probably be a sturdy hard plastic container (Tupperwear®) with a removable top and cut a slit in the side for the wires to pass through. I would then seal the slit with clear silicone RTV and mount it on top of the relay box with Velcro®.

Put a little paint/marker pen on the shiny spots of the bolt heads, let dry, then run the engine through its steps. If the paint comes off you know you've got movement in there.

Bad starter motor contacts can cause a hard start problem also but with it starting and running badly for 10 seconds then smoothing out sounds like it's loosing prime, Air leak in fuel system.

I have to agree with Ironforger about NAPA. 20 years ago their parts were O'k but now they're way proud of their stuff and charge accordingly. The only thing I get from them are hose clamps, nuts and bolts, and axle shafts for the Volvos. As for A-1 cardone, I don't think I've ever used their parts.

I'll second that. Makes noise going straight or on left turn - you've got a bad right wheel bearing. When turning your unloading the wheel your turning into and loading the opposite wheel, That's why you hear the grinding in the right wheel on a left turn. It's getting pretty bad if you can hear it going straight.

My truck sits unused for weeks at a time. When I start it with the electric "jockey" pump unplugged, it builds operational fuel pressure within 1 second. The reason I run with the electric pump disconnected, the Airtex pump was putting out 16-17 psi and the Fuel Boss at idle will put out any where from 15-18 psi. The two different but almost the same fuel pressures made setting the Hobbs switch (pressure switch) a pain and the electric pump kept cycling on and off very quickly. I read somewhere that people where running the Fuel Boss with the electric pump disconnected or with out an electric pump in the system at all so: I tried it, I like it, and that's all there is to it.

It comes with all the hose and hardware you'll need and installs in 2-3 hours depending on if you put in a back up lift pump for priming and starting or not. I have an Airtex fuel pump in line but have it unplugged when I found that I don't need it for start ups. This link will give you the install instructions for the Fuel Boss. http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/images/PDFs/98.5-02-Fuel-Boss-Install-Manual.pdfoss

Get a FUEL BOSS. No wires, no fuse, no relay, just FUEL PRESSURE. .

I've changed a few boosters over the years. When they fail they can cause a rough idle or you might hear a hissing noise with no rough idle, or you might not hear anything when you step on the peddle. It all depends on the size of the leak in the diaphragm.

Has old fluid, old rubber, and may be a bad brake booster, no vacuum assist.

That's way you should take your vehicle to a shop that specializes in it. There is no way a shop can know all the in's and out's of over 20 makes. 100's of models over 20-30 years.

Fuse #6 powers up The park switch in the motor, pin 87 and pin 86 for the wiper motor relay (DB) dark blue wire. Fuse #6 does not power the high or low circuit of the motor. The wiper motor: low, high, and park switch, is grounded through it's body. The park switch all so runs to the wiper relay and central timer module (DG) dark green wire. Try running the wiper with 1. the relay out because that looks like it is only used for intermittent and park, and 2. with the DG wire disconnected from the motor. For testing a fused circuit You can get an auto reset circuit breaker, solder a wire to each terminal of the circuit breaker and the other end to a bad fuse. install the bad fuse with circuit breaker and run your testing with out having to replace fuses.

Mike are you saying that if a person is ASE certified he/she don't know what they are doing? I've been ASE certified master since 1980, have my own auto repair business since 1994, I charge $100.00/hr, and I think I'd be smart enough to wait for the rain to stop before I'd go into a field to work on anything.

Use a lower scale for the Ω reading. try the lowest first and go up from there. Is it fuse #6 that gets over loaded?

If you put a volt meter between the ground wire and ground you will see 12+ volts when powering up either the low speed circuit, br/wt wire, or the high speed circuit, rd/yl wire. Test the ohms resistance for both the low and high speed circuit. Should have some resistance, 50-100 Ω. The central timer module is in nothing more than a grounding control unit. Which fuse is over loaded.

May be this will help.

DITO