IBMobile

Right now it's 67° and not a cloud in the sky. I have all my grandkids with me for the week. It's always fun with them but the food bill just doubled.

The last connection to the engine block, intake/exhaust manifold, bracket of the vehicle with the dead battery with the negative cable is two fold. Most vehicles have their battery under the hood and batteries produce the flammable/explosive hydrogen gas. There is less of a chance of an explosion if the spark produced when attaching the negative cable to the block than the battery. I've seen a battery blow up only once when a fellow worker jumped it. I made sure I did it right from then on. The starter motor is grounded to the engine block by its mating surface and mounting bolts. When attaching the negative cable to the engine block the dead battery grounding cable and any resistance it may have is eliminated. Now I use a jumper box with an on/off switch and I still attach the negative cable to the engine block.

One thing I've always done is to solder the jumper cables to the jumper clamps, there's no resistance and good AMP flow. Use rosin core solder.

Every year is a chapter in the book of your life. It's up to you to write the story. I like romance and comedy. Health, success, and happiness to all in the New Year.

The burn jobs I see are from leaking fuel lines under the hood, or a transmission cooling line spraying ATF on the head pipe, or an unfused hot wire shorted to ground. Had one customer who had a short in the wire for the tail light. The circuit was rated for 8 amps. He burned his car down when he installed a 25amp fuse.

Where in the above post does TRAILHEAD mention that the tech who worked on the truck was ASE certified. I've worked for dealers who would hire a 'tech' with no experience, no qualifications, only a tool box and let him wrench on customer's cars until his comeback rate was more than the profit. As for getting money back: i'd be talking to the general manager or owner of the dealership to get back any money paid to them for diagnostics or what ever. They know they messed up by installing the PCM no charge.

That's the drain. The A/C evaporator is before the heater core. When you turn on the defrost mode the A/C compressor is commanded to turn on. The air goes over the evaporator and the moisture is removed. The dry air then goes over the heater core and brought up to temp, then thru the duct work to the windshield. If you have moist air blowing on the inside windshield then the heater core is leaking. The fire wall drain is for the A/C evap.

MoparMike is right. I got tiered of working for some one else and having them tell me "if you don't like it you can hit the road". I started my repair business 21 years ago and haven't looked back. When I work a 12 hr day or weekends I do it because I want to do it not because I was told to do it. When I want to take time off, I don't have to ask anyone, I just do it. Yes it's hard drumming up work and trying to stay busy but the only people I have to satisfy is me and my customers. You treat the customer the way you would want to be treated and give them what they paid for and you can't fail.

When you turn on the heat do you get the sweet/sickly smell of anti-freeze or a film on the inside of the windshield when the defroster is turned on. If that is paint then the paint on the outside of the truck should be washing off also.

Carlsbad, CA is the city just to the west of me. It has the same things in it that other small cities have except for a new desalination plant and LEGOLAND theme park . It's also 5 miles south of Marine Corps Base Camp Pendleton. I'm locked and loaded.

I've replaced my starter motor twice now, thank you NAPA lifetime warranty, and pulled it down once to replace the crankshaft sensor. There is no bracket for it. Ya it's a little on the heavy side but no big deal. Before you go through the trouble of helicoiling the holes see if you have enough 'meat' left in the holes to run a tap down them and clean them up.

The SRS function comes in handy with newer cars with a can network. Like on Volvos if you disconnect certain modules with out the battery disconnected it will disable the SRS system and turn the light on. The only way to reset it is with a tool like yours

Before replacing shocks see how it drives with the new tires first. Always fix what you know is wrong first because sometimes that takes care of other problems/systems.

Another way to check the LS diff, block front wheels for safety, jack up one side of axle, put transmission in neutral, spin wheel by hand. It may take a little effort to spin but it should spin forward and backward. If it doesn't spin it's locked up.

You've done what Thoroughbred thought was wrong with them diagnosing it over the phone, had several mechanics check it over, it may well be a bad 'new' pump. I've had it happen several times over the years where a new part out of the box was bad. The car acted the same as with the old part. I chased the problem around till I figured it had to be a bad "new part".

To check that the LS diff isn't locked up, jack up the rear end and see if the rear wheels turn like a hypoid diff or if they are lock like a positraction. Is that measurement across the face of the tire, both sides and the middle, for both rear tires?

When putting the new bolts in, check that the threads in the bolt holes aren't buggered up by the old bolts banging around on their way out.

I found this on the internet so it must be true. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/towing/towing-capacity/vehicle/gvwr.htm

I blame everything on my Wife. It's her fault I married Her.

I just took and past eight test to be recertified as an ASE Master Auto Tech.. The test were: engine repair. brakes, automatic transmission/transaxle, suspension and steering, heating and air conditioning, engine performance, electrical/electronic systems, manual drive train and axles, for a total of 188 questions. I've had my Master rating since 1980 and have recertified every 5 years. When I worked for the dealer it meant extra pay per hour but now its so my customers see some kind of qualification. I think this will be the last time since I'll probably be retired in the next 3 years.

Not all tire sidewalls are the same. I've bust a lot of ties off of rims over the years and the Michelin ® tire always had the stiffest side wall to work with. My work van always had Michelin ® tires on it because of the load I carry and could drive at 70 mph with out it getting all squarely. I needed new tires and Michelin stopped making that module so I got a set of Hankook® tires and put them on the back. Now if I go over 65 mph it feels like a death ride with catastrophe around the corner. I've found a good stiff side wall construction is just as important as air pressure in tire performance and vehicle stability.

I have to agree with Mike, over inflated. I run that kind of pressure 65-70 psi only when I have my 5er hooked up, about a 1000lb in the bed. When unloaded I air down to 45 psi.

You said Save your money and use it for a warm motel if you need to. it's better that staying in a cold truck stop

How long would it take to drive in 'good' weather and could you hold off the move for a day or two until a good weather window opened that way you don't have to fool with chains.

If it ever got that cold here they would just pass another tax