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To check that the LS diff isn't locked up, jack up the rear end and see if the rear wheels turn like a hypoid diff or if they are lock like a positraction. Is that measurement across the face of the tire, both sides and the middle, for both rear tires?

When putting the new bolts in, check that the threads in the bolt holes aren't buggered up by the old bolts banging around on their way out.

I found this on the internet so it must be true. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/towing/towing-capacity/vehicle/gvwr.htm

I blame everything on my Wife. It's her fault I married Her.

I just took and past eight test to be recertified as an ASE Master Auto Tech.. The test were: engine repair. brakes, automatic transmission/transaxle, suspension and steering, heating and air conditioning, engine performance, electrical/electronic systems, manual drive train and axles, for a total of 188 questions. I've had my Master rating since 1980 and have recertified every 5 years. When I worked for the dealer it meant extra pay per hour but now its so my customers see some kind of qualification. I think this will be the last time since I'll probably be retired in the next 3 years.

Not all tire sidewalls are the same. I've bust a lot of ties off of rims over the years and the Michelin ® tire always had the stiffest side wall to work with. My work van always had Michelin ® tires on it because of the load I carry and could drive at 70 mph with out it getting all squarely. I needed new tires and Michelin stopped making that module so I got a set of Hankook® tires and put them on the back. Now if I go over 65 mph it feels like a death ride with catastrophe around the corner. I've found a good stiff side wall construction is just as important as air pressure in tire performance and vehicle stability.

I have to agree with Mike, over inflated. I run that kind of pressure 65-70 psi only when I have my 5er hooked up, about a 1000lb in the bed. When unloaded I air down to 45 psi.

You said Save your money and use it for a warm motel if you need to. it's better that staying in a cold truck stop

How long would it take to drive in 'good' weather and could you hold off the move for a day or two until a good weather window opened that way you don't have to fool with chains.

If it ever got that cold here they would just pass another tax

I'm using the 'bypass valve', which really should be called a fuel pressure regulator, that came with the kit. I've had to take it apart and clean it when the pressure dropped due to a small peace of rubber becaming stuck and held the valve open. That was right after I installed it and it's be trouble free since. I am running it with the electric pump disconnected.

Nice code reader at a nice price. My Launch says it will do ABS/SRS and it works fine on Volvos but it won't work on my truck.

With my Fuel Boss mechanical lift pump system I see 15-16 psi @ idle on startup and go up to 20psi by 1500 rpm. After driving for 5-10 minutes fuel pressure will be 16-17 psi @ idle and still 20psi going down the road. I'd leave the pressure on the low side. My truck sees 15psi for 30-60 seconds, no big deal. Did you put in an electric "prime pump" and if so what type?

I've lived in RI, MASS, and NH, when the company I worked for wanted me to go to Bangor, Maine it was adios. I had enough of the New England winters. Since I've moved to the San Diego area 41 years ago, I've shoveled snow in my driveway ZERO times.

It's 4:30 and 73° with tomorrow forecast to be 80° with no chance of snow.

My heater core was replaced in June of 2013. I used the swivel type, that's the only type my supplier had at the time. It went in fine and there's been no problems.

Just put in a new dash with that new heater core and evap and save some time. http://www.lmctruck.com/features/de/DEDP1.htm?utm_campaign=20150209_DE_Customers_1998_2002&utm_source=et&utm_medium=email&utm_content=Main_Dodge_Dash_Image

If you just want to read codes you can buy a cheap code reader for about $50 and up. Their are so many out there with some giving just codes, while others give codes and live data, and others will graph the data. I have two code readers a Launch 129 and a Matco Tool MD1032. I use the Matco reader more even though it is less capable. It gives me the info I need. You should buy what you really need. If you just what to read codes get an inexpensive one but if you want live data and other options then the sky's the limit. Don't forget to read the product reviews and watch out for Chines junk knock offs.

It looks interesting. They have everything for a DIY guy. I like that its tint able with colors like " jungle love" "don't yell at me", and "blood bath". I wish I'd known about the Chassis Saver™ when I was redoing my boat trailer. I did some looking around and this stuff is real popular with the off road and down in the mud 4x4 sites. I didn't see one bad thing about it. Keep us up to date on this project.

Some JBweld ® Kwik™ mixed will seal it in a pinch.

How about a spray in liner like Line-X® http://www.linex.com/ or Rhino Linings® http://www.rhinolinings.com/

I cleaned mine with Meguiar's® Plastx™ clear plastic cleaner and polish last April. I used a drill with a foam pad to clean and polish but did not spray them with any sealer. A customer had his done professionally and sprayed with lacquer. 6mo later they were yellow and the lacquer made it worse.

Had our Thanksgiving meal today already. Now we can go out tomorrow and serve those less fortunate.

Had my trans rebuilt at 63K. Front band went out and all the junk,( band and clutch material) , took out the torque converter. I did a lot of backing up with my 5er and didn't have a trans temp gauge so I cooked the fluid and destroyed the transmission. I haven't had a problem since.

It hasn't been a priority with me. Living in So Cal it hardly ever rains, been in a drought the last 4 years. The last time the truck was driven in the rain was the second week of last May when I was in Wyoming. If I was to fashion something it would probably be a sturdy hard plastic container (Tupperwear®) with a removable top and cut a slit in the side for the wires to pass through. I would then seal the slit with clear silicone RTV and mount it on top of the relay box with Velcro®.