JAG1

Ahaah! one good reason to relay the lift pump to run directly off the batteries. Good to know this can happen.

I doubt if this will help but, there could be a crack in your fuel filter cap or it's not tightened down to specs.Low fuel?

I have one Wix O/F left. Now I think I should return that one. The rest are Baldwin filters any opinions on those?

I'm interested in finding out what's causing this. Right now I can only suggest making a test wire to run the pump directly off the battery. hook up the ground and hot to the pump, turn the key on, engine off and hook wires directly to the battery and watch what the F/P gauge does.

It is on top of the fuel module cap. Called an anti roll over valve, they have been known to fail or clog on a few I've heard of. Only my first gen ctd did this and ran fine but lost power over time while running. no fuel pressure gauge on that truckIf your lift pump is down on the frame you can disconnect the fuel line and put a few pounds of air back into the tank. I think doing this with the cap off helps push out any clogs that might be in the line/ drawstraw, but with the cap on it can also clean out the tank vent.I have also heard of a few guys finding their fuel module screens clogged, draining down the fuel and sucking some air.I removed my screens with a razor blade and added a filter before the lift pump. I did not want to drop the tank, clean the screens only to have them varnish up again later.I did these mods because I think the fuel system needs all the free flow it can get. The way they designed it ...... I also did the Vulcan big lines and draw straw. That made a huge difference in pressure and showed how restrictive the design is.

I'm not sure about a lot of things now-a-days but, you might have just a simple problem with a clogged tank vent.Try running the truck with the fuel cap off and see what it does. On my 92 CTD I drilled an1/8th hole in between the little spokes of the center of the fuel cap. Don't drill thru the top just the plastic under the cap.On my 2002 I added a tank vent with a screened inlet.Maybe this will help..... Mike

Yeah Dripley your a nice guy to help with my truck too. Same with a lot of others on here that helped and came up with different ideas.Don't know much about Mopar Man though.... he lives way back in the boonies on lost gravel roads and dumps some kinda' blue or red stuff in his tank. :lol:BTW, Been driving my 1st gen over 16 years, been a work truck all it's life. Still won't want to sell it either.I've noticed also that this forum is a very good place.

When mine goes bad I'll try cutting in an access hole. Cut small till I can see where things are and then cut some more. It'd be good only if you can actually get to everything from the seat side. My favorite hobby is to build/ fix things better and create solutions...

$2k! Gotta be someway to make one with an old wood stove.... just need to find out how they are set up fabricate something. One problem; if they don't burn right you'll have a lot of soot coming out the pipe smokin' the neighbors.

Great idea! My shop requires probably just a small one. I'll look into a Google search.

Yeah I know about the recycle deals. Just wish there was a way to turn it into fuel. It is good for starting woodstove fires. Just place a few drops on the charcoals and it lights right up but that hardly uses it fast enough. Placing more than a few drops is not good, I found out, it makes a mini explosion when the oil starts gasing/smoking.

I once rode to the sawmill with a load of logs from my place and asked the driver about the black oil in diesel engines. He was around retirement age at the time, been hauling logs most all his life. He told me that 'black is beautiful' on a diesel engine because the oil is actually doing it's job by doing what it's supposed to do, keeping the engine clean.I'm old school and don't understand the extended oil changes you guys do, but definetly would be nice! It gets old in a hurry changing the oil all the time.I have about 30 one gallon jugs of waste oil layin around here too. What to do with them...

Instead of taking apart the dash or spending the extra time to cut the rubber floor pad and remove those hard to get screws, Is it possible to just cut the housing and make your own access door for servicing this problem with the diverter? It would make it easier for future work as well.A guy could get some black plastic and put that over the hole you cut. Yes? No?:shrug:TIA

I would never say this about any dealer but, I know one of the tactics is make you think it's old and needs 'lotsa' repairs. Then they get to sell you a new one and you end up like me :spend:or used to be

Yeah... I took my sweet time ....' not yet it's still rainin' ..... afraid my camera will get a big blop a water from the hood .nope... ahh WTH get it done.Sorry for the wait.The blower comes from West Marine or any boat shop has them. The 3'' duck.... duct:banghead: came from a home building supply and the heat sink is out of an old computer battery charger from the school district. The glue is a left over tube of gutter seal that the gutter contractors use. It has metal in the glue. Stuff will stick to everything and transfer heat.Sorry.. I cannot do links,..... for Bar-b -Q'ing I can.... but I think you can find heat sinks by doing a google search. Heat sinks work pretty cool. I made one for the head lite switch (sport head lites) cause it was getting so hot.. like about to melt the dashboard. I made it from copper pipe and it really worked, cools it down a lot.

I leave the fan on for an hour after shutdown on hot days. I think helps a little while running too. The tests done with heat sensors showed that the VP gets over heated (above 165 degrees) on hot days and towing or heavy loads.I got my alcoas off Craigslist for my other truck as well for around $200. Most People don't know they are forged by Alcoa. They are 95 thru 97 3/4 ton Ford wheels and rated for 3750 lbs. Good for hauling a camper. When you see them they are always asking around 200 dollars. You can still buy them new for $280 a piece.Whenever we are getting a ready mix truck you'll see the same identicle wheel on the front of the trucks with the Alcoa emblem. They are the same only bigger of course.

3 inch aluminum duct coming up from the bottomglued on heat sink to help dissipate heat from the electronics .Off topic......for 200 dollars, for 4 alcoa wheels, will never crack, high load rating and the dodge center caps fit.duct coming from behind the bumper here you can see the inline 12 volt blower. It's mounted under the driver side battery. You can see the crack in the duct. think I'll tape it up with aluminum duct tape for now and drill a small drain hole. Duct going up to the VP from underneath.

but but but but but but now it's raining out there:stuned: Sheesh, I'll do it anyhow, it should let up in a few mins.

Okay.... pics coming tomarry when it's not supper time:drool:

Oh yeah... and I appreciate guys like you Driply that want to help. Not as savvy as lots of others on here but, I still try to add and pay it forward, when I can.

For those of us that cannot afford an aftermarket pump, I carry an extra pump behind the seat Plus with 1/2'' fuel shut off valves on each side of the pump and filter it's always an easy change out.Eventually I'll go for a Raptor.BTW The screen was perfectly clean... I really believe the screen slows the pressure down some.

I've read somewhere and heard on other forums that Wix is a good enough quality fuel filter but, when I opened the box, it said on the filter, 'made in Banglidesh'...... I think I won't be buying them any more.

I don't know exactly what did the trick. Went for a test run and pressure is up over 14 on a stock pump. It stays there on wot.All I did was take the top off the stock pump and removed the screen on the inlet side. I know I can junk the screen cause I have a prefilter.Just wanted to let you guys know how it made a difference. I think I can attribute it to that.

Sorry you guys. I haven't been on for awhile, Did a complex job for about a week and a half. You know, work, eat, sleep. Only this the customer handing da' money...:hyper:My VP cooler is a 3 in. duct running from the front bumper intake for rammed air up to the VP. On hot days or hard running I hit a switch to turn on a blower for more cooling.On top of the electronics is a glued on heat sink to help keep it cooler. It is glued with the glue that has heat transfer properties (has aluminum in the glue) and works in conjunction with the rammed air and blower. I know the engine compartment is hot and heat from the block to the VP is killer heat so the duct blows at the fuel inlet on the VP to help cool the fuel and electronics. Cooler fuel equals better mileage is also part of the idea.This set up cost me all of 35 bucks. I think it helps that I have constant cooler outside air blowing at the VP. This idea came from a very lengthy thread on DTR where two guys running tests to cool the vp and fuel found with heat sensors that a blower was very effective. Especially when running the blower for an hour after engine shut down because of massive added heat soak into the VP from the hot engine block.BTW, if you decide to do this I found the flexible aluminum duct only lasts about two- three years. So I'll be changing to a fire resistant flexible vinyl duct.

Thanks Driply for further info. I'm glad to hear your not in the building biz. Although it can be really very good at times, there has now been just one too many slow downs to counter the good times. I think things are getting a little better each year.I have decided to wait on the ball joints for awhile. Today I found everything else is tight like it should be except the steering shaft will move up and down when trying to shake it. It is loose just below the 'U' joint near the column where it connects onto the main shaft. Not much play in the wheel but has a slight clunk near the back of the steering box while turning back and forth.Sometimes a pure baffling truck to own but with sites like this we'll all do much better.