JAG1

I'm sorry I was not aeound for awhile to answer but, I paid $850 for the trac bar and steering stabilizer with installation. That's all I can remember. Rip at Source automotive gave me a deal because the econ was worse thenthan now, I guess.

I got my 3rd gen adjustable track bar from source automotive in Clackamas, Oregon. It has a stout upper mounting bracket and thicker bar size. Source automotive ships to everyone. I think their number is 503 654-9004. They work mostly on Dodge CTD's so they know all the good stuff. I bought the steering stabilizer and the 03 adjustable track bar from them and had them do the install. My truck only had about 40 k but, WOW, what a difference:thumbup2:. When you do the two inch leveling kit you'll need the adjustable track bar or your front differential and wheels will be off center by about 3/4''. The track bar allows you to get the front running gear back to the center neutral position and stops the vibration you might get at highway speeds. That's all you really need except an alignment is always a good idea and getting the steering wheel back to 12 o'clock, going straight, can be a bit time consuming but, easy enough to do. Remember a two inch leveling kit will require air bags in the rear if you carry any heavy weight in the future.

That is what I did and I'm very happy with it. It looks really stout compared to the original. I got the adjustable one so I could do the 2 inch front leveling kit.

Yep drive safe out there everyone. Merry Christmas and God Bless.

It's a remote valve stem on the lic plate frame. You could be right, I never sprayed the actual valves. Thanks everyone... I'll report back this saturday when I get a chance.

Mopar, Why couldn't you install another tank on your truck and run heating oil when your on gravel or dirt roads? Then switch over to the low lube overpriced EPA sh** on pavement?I firmly believe that this price gouging on diesel is a result of EPA and other eco nuts trying to control us. A lot of these eco nuts don't believe in God or guns. They want to believe we all came from some kind of fish so they can control, not God. But the Bible already says there will be no way to stop the end times, and that's including global warming and pollution. Says it right in there too.So enjoy your rigs... God knows we all have done a lot of good hauling things for everyone.

Good post

Yes, you guys got to be right. Should not be any leaks. I sprayed them before with soap and water and nothing showed up. I think if I use something with less bubbles to begin with I might find it. Something like wd40 might even give a clue where it is.

Is it normal for some amount of slow leaking on the airbags? I put mine on new a couple mos. ago and loose about 10 lbs a week or so.

It's the new new drill. That thing can start the engines on a 747 and still get thru a safe after loosing the combination.

X2, That's a good place Correction; it's in Clackamas, Oregon a couple miles east of I-205.

My stock exhaust is still good but the tight bend over the rear axle has rusted thru. At 65k miles why couldn't I just cut that off and run the tail pipe out in front of the rear tire? Getting rid of a bend sounds good, but, are there any problems doing that? Smoked tire?Eventually I'll go with good aftermarket muffler, flow through something like that, any recommendations?T.I.A.

Where did you get the relay? I still can't remember if I should use a solid state relay or a solenoid type. I don't want it back feeding to the ECM if the pump goes bad and sends high amps:shrug:

X2 here. I just don't like being caught up in that rat race. One mistake happens in front of them and they've left no room for errors.I get to where I'm going less tired, more energy, happier. Lifes much better in the slow lane and I get to let people in that way. Although I'll admit, some just plain can't speed up right like they got to get out and push it. I just wait for them to figure it out.

I did this to my truck when Mike said I can do this w/o problems. I turned the key on only to get the FP gauge working to give a reading. IMHO it's better with the stock pump running off the batteries. So I'm going to wire it that way eventually. Like Mike says the best way is from inside the PDC cause the wiring is not corroding like it does close to the batteries. Hey Mike.....

Haven't any of you guys noticed that Mopar Man (Mike) hasn't filled out his sig showin' the truck mods.

I like mine. Seems to make the steering go back to center easier or quicker.I did not like it when I put the camper on cause then I had a major sag and needed airbags. It used to be level when the camper got loaded so air bags it is.

I did this test about 4 years ago using a furnace blower. It works very well. The leak is coming from the Battery door frame.Anyone know any sealant / caulking that works on polypropelene plastics. Like to seal that to the camper body and then seal the door frame down over. This would make for a double seal.

Original question for a way of finding leaks. :doh:I now think I found it.Thanks in advance for any help/ advice.

I had the fuel drain back happen; Once when I failed to tighten the fuel filter cap enough and again when I primed the system and did not tighten down the injectors enough. So you might check all that.They say you can break the plastic filter cap if you use the little square drive in the center. Your supposed to use the big socket instead. I think the filter cap is 25 ft. pounds but don't know what the injectors are.... just make them good and tight but not wrenched like a bull.

Post deleted... for redundant question

Mike, a guy on TDR, Gary from Canyon City, Oregon found those two connectors have some issues with resistance. Maybe some don't but could be a step in the right direction for stopping future problems. The fact that the OP had to keep opening and closing one of them shows something was wrong there possibly. Do not want to give anyone a bum steer...

99dgcummins, I read on TDR that you are supposed to cut that connector plug out of the wire from alt. to passenger battery and solder them together with shrink tube. Then also do the other one from Passenger battery that heads toward the firewall or PCM. Don't forget to unhook the batteries before doing this.BTW I used a straight butt connector, removed the outer plastic sleeve, crimped them together and soldered the whole thing in one. Shrink tube with the adhesive sealer is very important:thumbup2:

Don't worry Andy... I've been doin' the same dang kind of stuff lately. I even believed you about the airbag light too