JAG1

Sheesh:doh: took me long enough. Just want to know if any of the brands are Lifetime guaranteed pumps.Thank you

I thought the happy fat weiner dog wasn't your dog, or is it?

The doggy showing up was sort of a way to communicate that they are friendly perhaps; i.e. very happy friendly dog, very fat . After all Bigfoot knew what his doggy was going to do, running inside your tent:thumb1:. You should have put out some foods out for the next night. You might have a new buddy to show you where the good hunting grounds are .On the other hand, I'd be so scared I wouldn't know what to do as different unexpected experiences can happen so fast.Thank you for sharing this story.

Thanks Mike. I already have the big lines, draw straw and relocated oem pump so it's a breeze to install the new pump. I even have 1/2'' inch shut off valves in the fuel lines, one on each side of the pump for easy change out no reprime. No drain back to the tank either:tease:.That pump is a little bit of money. have to wait a few weeks.

Need to can those 2 stock pumps I have. Like to hear opinions on any of the good aftermarket brands?Thank you all for finally convincing this stubborn old guy on them pumps.

I have a second truck, a 12 valve ctd for work and changed the oil every 3,000 miles. I even poured a quart of oil thru with the drain plug out just to rinse the engine and it always turned black within a short while. This is normal and shows that your oil is actually doing the job it is supposed to be doing. Been driving this truck nearly everyday since 96 and it has always been that way.

I have two more stock Lift pumps to burn up before I get a Raptor. Anyhow, would it be okay to use an 85 amp continious duty mechanical type relay (you know the old style with contacts inside) instead of the solid state ones you guys are using? Wanna run the pump off the batteries or the Alternator like some are doing, but, don't understand.... doesn't the alt put out too much amps or volts till it goes thru the volt meter first?? Where did you come off the alt?Shows how little I know, but may help someone else also.T.I.A.

I love the light bulbs on the rear:lmao:.Last trip to Nevada (two weeks ago) I had a guy tailing me pretty close on black ice. Guys nuts right? I'm going along about 10 under, ignoring the guy. Next thing I see the guy is along side me going to pass, two lane highway, but, there's a car coming real close. Now the guy's an idiot with a death wish. I maintained my speed to let him back in behind, but it's too late, right?! so he goes over to the shoulder on the on coming traffic side and just barely clears the car coming. The on coming car went between us.. Can't believe it. Now, when there's a great chance to pass now he get's in behind me again WTH!. I no longer wanted this guy near so I just pulled off the road. It was unbelievable and the roads looked like a glazed doughnut.Hey Mike, I kinda hyjacked your thread . Very sorry Boss:banghead:

Okay, so I am a good safe driver out there, reasonably so, but, what do you guys do about the speeders always tailgatin'?Smoke switch?

I don't like it because of some of the write ups on it. Plus the only time I ever used it the magnet on the drain plug had metal chips on it for the very first time.

i used the CJ-4 only one time when it first came out. I must say first, I have changed my own oil since the 60's first on my 57 chevy but, I've been driving the same ctd since 1996 and it was the first time ever I saw metal chips stuck to the magnetic drain plug. So I quit using it. Had to go to straight 30wt. to get CI-4, but, now I cannot get it anywhere now. Have to go to an oil main dist. center to get in only in 55 gallon drums :spend:What to do what to do:ahhh:

That's why I put the fuel return going into the filler neck. I can see the steady flow going down in there. Helps mix the 2 cycle too.

Okay That's cool cause I appreciate the advice. Another point about synth is the Cummins site says even if your using synth you must maintain the regular intervals. I guess it has to do with soot build ups in the oil.

Which Dino oil you guys? I don't like the new 'LOW-E CJ-4 stuff so I'm lost on the right oil for my two older CTD's. A 96 and a 2002. Don't want synth:tease:. It's JUST THAT IT'S Too expensive for the regular interval oil changes.Thanks a bunch in advance . Just lost:ahhh:

So does that mean my 92 ctd hoses will last another 355,000 miles since I drive everyday? Never though about hoses, but they still squeeze pretty good:whistle:

Mostly I use the Pennzoil marine 2 cycle but I bought a couple cases of West Marine TCW3 2 cycle lately. On my Flatbed ctd I have to use a paper towel center roll to dump it in because of the tool boxes in the way. What I thought I noticed once when using SuperTech from wally's was that it seemed to soak thru the paper towel roll a little faster:shrug: could be wrong here but, it seemed that way. Maybe there's a little 'watering down'? Hope I'm wrong for your guys sake. Anyway West Marine has it by the cases (6 gallons) and sometimes the clerk will really talk turkey over price for a couple of them. Might be Worth a try.. Last time 12 gallons cost me around $125. I remember saving about 85 bucks that way.

When I put 2 stroke in my truck I just judge it by how the quart bottles feel while dumping it in. If I need 3 quarters of a tank to fill, I dump in about that amount from the qt. bottle. If I'm going to fill a half tank, I just dump in what feels like a half bottle. Usually add a little more to be sure. The VP thanks me so far.Mopar, The DPF you wrote about.... I would be doing the 2 stroke anyway because it's the oil fuel in our trucks that makes them last so much longer over a gas engine. Wouldn't a few holes in the DPF filter solve that problem?

on other forums they're saying things like the newer trucks are designed to run with the ULSD without 2 cycle. That using 2 cycle is a big no no:nono:.But, what I say is that friction between metal parts will never change, no matter how new, so even if I had a new truck I'd sure as heck always put it in the fuel.

Mr Murphy has stayed away for the most part.... once going down the road carrying an extra fuel pump, 30 miles from home my fuel pump went out I was a block from my buddies then, but, that was a short haul so I guess it doesn't count.

I feel bad if your only option is having to go to the auto electric places.. More often than not I paid for wrong diagnostics :spend:I finally figured it out for myself one time and the place did give the money back. Just a little reading on the subject helps enormously. Soon you'll begin to realize it's not difficult for the most part anyway.

Very cool! Makes me wonder about the quality on my Stewart Warner FP gauge.

I wonder if you have a situation in which the camper is not on a relay or a battery isolator and the camper is not disconnecting from the truck. When you park it would put enough of a small load on your truck batteries to draw them down.Also check your connection between both truck batteries as it seems odd one battery would go bad when they are in parallel. Usually both batteries get drawn down when one battery is bad so both would show as low go.Hope to be hearing about the fix you find.Oh yeah I had a truck that had a glove box light that was out of adjustment. The light stayed on with the door shut. nobody knew. The only way I saw it was at night with a little bit of light glowing from behind the dash.

What replacement parts, besides filters, do you guys, have in the tool box for long runs?I have to carry an extra stock lift pump and fuel pressure sending unit for the gauge.Are there any sensors or extra parts that are important?My last long run was over 1200 miles. What a blast!:ahhh:T.I.A.

Yes the track bar is adjustable for the lift kit and allows the needed adjustment to recenter the front differential. Mine was out of adjustment after the 2'' lift and had vibration at 65mph till I recentered it. I guess parts from Source was around 635.00 and with install was $850.00. I had them do the work. I had the money and I work hard every day already from being a 60 yr old carpenter . Besides my oem track bar was looser than a goose. Now steers like this:hyper: not this:wow:

Mine did that till I got the Big Line kit from Vulcan Performance. Gets rid of the restrictive banjo bolts and small of fuel lines. Now I'm a steady 14 all the time with no pressure reduction. I forgot to say... try running the truck with the fuel cap off and see if pressures are a little better. That will see if the tank vent is going bad.