JAG1

I'm able to buy the original CI-4 oil without any CJ-4 oil additives or lack of them for my 2 older diesels:thumbup2: :hyper:However, I don't like standing on a ladder holding a 5 gallon bucket over my engine with a giant funnel. It won't work. :doh:So what oil transfer pumps you guys got or use? Or better yet, what are some of the tricks you guys do with bulk containers?TIA

I would like to see the inside

Thanks Driply, I don't see why you couldn't offer to pay for a level of coverage that would properly insure it. Seems like a reasonable thing. Every once in awhile I always seem to hear about someones rig getting totaled and the insurance screwed them over:shrug:. I dont need that.... I'm a very good driver, but, traffic and drivers with a death wish seem to be on the increase.. My area used to have little or no traffic. One of these years I'll move to an out of the way area again. I love those quiet out of the way places.

Hopefully there is an insurance company that understands the cost of all the goodies put on to a truck. You know..... when you start putting on lots of aftermarket products that adds up into some bucks.Plus another issue is this blue book value where you couldn't find another Cummins truck that is 10 years old with low miles, and a real cream puff like mine. It's finally paid for, so how can I possibly get a fair amount of full coverage with book value floating around? With all the goodies too?T.I.A.

I know about testing for voltage drop on either side of the connectors to see if they are good... always a good idea. Then I think about road vibration and elements. I know wiring can look good, test good, and then you can accidentily move a different way and find it's bad.My trans started the hunting issue so I eliminated those two connectors off the pass. battery. On the same warm day, I noticed how there is a wire harness underneath the alternator mount bracket, but, this wiring was laying on the alt. itself, so I zip tied that up off the alt. and my hunting issue has not come back since.Hey Mike about me eliminating those connectors.... there!

Appreciate all the info...... Source Automotive will be settin' me up.... was looking at their website and they sell some dang good stuff. Their needle valve is an all brass one with a brass cross handle to adjust it :thumbup2:Then they have a couple/ three choices of gauges.... Isspro standards and the EV2's with different faces and also the AutoMeter brand with a couple options. They even have the ones that you can change the light colors.Pretty soon I'll be number one Fuel Pressure Head

Westach would be the one to go then. Sounds very good. Source wants about 275- 300 bucks, parts and about an hour labor, to put in the new gauge where the old one is, w/ new needle valve . I'll call and see if they can grab a Westach on their parts runs.

Thanks a bunch.......I know Source uses a needle valve. I'm hoping it's an adjustable one like yours Mike. That is cooloosys. They are also using a rubber hose to help absorb more of the water hammer too. Then they change from fluid to air pressure when they get close to the gauge. Does that sound good?

I was told the VP trucks are brutal on FP gauges. My Stewart Warner needs some slappen' around to get it to behave right. Only 5 years old and an electronic sensor type, I'm disappointed.The pulsating is what is supposed to be hard on them but, how is that so bad on an electronic one ? I even had the Vulcan small orific to prevent that. Next weekend Source automotive is putting on a mechanical one. Is that what's best? What brand do you guys have that's lasted? Like to know a little bit on how they are made and what type is best for our VP trucks.T.i.a.

Similar situation happened to me once.... I had the old oil filter gasket stuck to the oil filter base trying to screw on 2 gaskets with one new filter. It doesn't work to well... I lost about 5 quarts of oil on the driveway. I found out that I must check this on every filter change as the old rubber gasket is almost always staying on under there. Man what a pain if you forget to check that and start it up.

Good question Dripley.... What is Bosch's specifications for a proper rebuild on these pumps? Does it get sent to Mexico?Be nice to know these things before mine goes out... I'm still on the original VP.

Better to get big enough or a little bigger because you'll want to be able to stuff enough wood to be able to burn most of the night.Me.... I'm in a natural habit of getting up at 3 am to fill it up again then back to bed. One thing about getting the house too hot is that it's a great benefit to be able to open the windows and refresh the inside air every once in awhile, without feeling like you're throwing money out.

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What should the fuel pressure be if there are no fluctuations between idling and WOT? TIA

This is exactly as I did last Saturday only with a stock engine I went with the AD100, which is the same, I think as a Raptor. I already have the 1/2 lines all the way with a prefilter. Question....... do any of you feel that the tank vent might be even remotely too small with 1/2'' lines and increased fuel pressure?

It's a Stewart Warner electronic sensor type. I wanted Isspro but the dealer did not go with my request. They did get the pillar pod and color right along with trans temp gauge. All installed, I couldn't complain for $450 parts and labor.with an extra sensor.All in all.... I wasn't convinced about the AD100. Not till 65k miles and 4 stock pumps on the bench

Nice pump, nice mounting brackets. I love the pressure adjustment on the side. That's too cool only my gauge only goes to 16psi so that's what I set it to.

I have a 92.There is no prefilter unless you add one. It's a very good idea and to place it before the lift pump is tops. On mine it goes thru a shut off valve,to the pre filter, then liftpump, then thru the factory filter, then to the I/P. On my 92 the fuel heater is on top of the fuel filter sort of like a doughnut sitting stacked ontop. You can remove the fuel heater by removing the threaded nipple that the filter screws onto. If I remember right, it is a star type wrench with a slot across if you would rather use a large screw driver instead of the star tip.Oh yeah.... it's important every once in awhile to remove the fuel heater, REMEMBERING WHICH WAY IS THE TOP, and soak it in some diesel and blow it out. Be surprised how much junk gets in there. I think mine was dirty from never having a prefilter for a 100,000 miles.I placed the prefilter under the hood inside the drivers side fender. I had to make a bracket to hold it out of the way of everything. I also placed a shut off valve in the line for changing both filters to prevent fuel drain back to the tank. Very handy. If you want a first class job, get the filter with it's own priming pump. My racor works like a charm. Much better than the little lever on the fuel pump.

well then just get in the habit of locking your door with your key But then everyone that's with you will start to wonder:cookoo: till they lock their keys someday

Luke, I don't think it matters. SS. is more for chemicals. Mopar Mike I have used the vise grips too but never seem to get it right to stop the fuel.

We had a car once that would automatically unlock all doors if you shut the door locked. You had to shut the door unlocked and lock it with the keys and then all doors would lock automatic. Now that is a smart car.

I went to a place that had a whole rack of various brass plumbing fittings. I grabbed two 1/2'' ball valves and found the barbed fittings that threaded into each end of the valves. Next I just cut the fuel lines wherever a good spot was for the valve handle to be able to swing open/ closed and clamped onto the barbed fittings using stainless hose clamps. Barbed fittings are male fittings designed to go into rubber hose and not slip off.That's the best way. Because Before, I had it hard plumbed the valve to the filter on one side and hard plumbed to the lift pump on the other and found it used to many fittings and had fuel weeping out even though I used Permatex thread sealant. It was a problem with the close nipples, to be able to adapt, being non tapered threads with the valves being tapered. Just go as few fittings as possible and put a short piece of fuel hose in between the valves and your pump /filter on ea. side. Stay all tapered threading easy with barbed hose fittings, and you'll be all right.

I do not like any of this either. Just talk of it gets my blood boiling. Did you catch that sentence that calls all old car and truck owners who seemingly can keep the old ones on the road forever, ''A social''.

:lmao:

Keeps fuel fresh for 20 yrs... I wonder about that ever being possible. One ounce to a 34 gallon tank also sounds too good I think it makes too many claims, too good to be true. All things considered, I think 2 cycle oil is best till a product goes tested/used for awhile.Harry, which dealership do you work at maybe one of us can go visit with you and hear your car running before and after you pour some in the tank. Hopefully you are in Oregon cause I'll make the trip.