JAG1

Thanks Evan that is good information right there. I appreciate that on the fluids .

Dripley, To me it looks like a glazing on the surface that has the cracks not the actual rotor itself otherwise with that many cracks them things should be shattered by now. . Mike says never use ceramic pads for some reason, always get the organics.

Disconnect the two small alternator wire connector at the back of the alt and go for a run to see if the trans behaves as it should. If it stops hunting/ acting strange the problem is with the Alternator. Mopar Man always tells us to do that in a case like yours. I think having a good Fluke DVM is a must with these trucks as most less expensive DVM's don't have the capability to properly read AC ripple.

Thanks Evan.... simple enough. Georend is so cool they ship the gasket flat with it taped between two layers of cardboard No need to lay it in the sun to get it to go flat and straight before install. I heard some guys are using John Deere HyGuard Tractor fluid with a bit better results, but they don't say if the trans lasted noticeably longer, just shifts/ behaves better. Any thoughts on that?

I'm going to do my first transmission service. I bought a Goerend Trans Pan for the better drain plug, better drainage slope inside, better gasket according to other forum discussions. One problem keeps coming up is leaks and drips when done. So I'm wondering how so it won't drip when done. Should I use RTV to both sides of the gasket? One guy says he puts RTV on and then tightens the bolts only finger tight, waits an hour and then torques the bolts to spec. Wondering too about the trans temp sending gauge port on the side. Does that accept Isspro Temp sending units? Anyone ever done a Goerend Trans Pan? Thanks for any ideas/ tips

Sometimes you can get more crud out by flushing the opposite direction of the normal flow of coolant in the engine and heater core. So backflushing can help if you can with your garden hose and you have neutral Ph water.

Yes Eric has everything you need. He is the original designer. Really knows his stuff. His kit does not by pass the factory filter.

Yes .05 or less is good according to Moparman. Sorry about my comment you can't trust bench tests.... I don't really know thats true for sure.

Whats your fuel pressure range with that set up? It does not look quite right. Eric at Vulcan performance helped me a lot getting rid of all the banjos and hard 90s. Man..... what a difference too . He provides a long sweep 90 at the VP to prevent cavitation. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? I would not drive it till you can keep fuel pressures in the right range and be able to stay on top of it with a reliable gauge.

Mine is mechanical also and do it just like you Dripley. Mine also has fuel pressure test gauge ports to test how the gauge is doing.

Those china tires do that. I squirt in the spray car tire flat sealer and spin the tire around and bring it up to the proper psi. They hold air much longer that way instead of having to refill every 3 months or so.

Mine is different....Intank screens removed..... 1/2'' drawstraw.... large water separating filter....Raptor 150.... to factory filter and then on to the VP44. All connected with 1/2 lines. The fuel pressure gauge 'T' is before the VP44 with a pulsating dampner valve to keep the gauge from water hammer damage.

Apparently her daughter is a gun collector, voted for Trump and drives an old 12 valve Mike keeps it running for her.

Royal Squire got an idea to make millions selling air fresheners that look like that one. New fad.

Hey she looks exactly like Michael Nelson's new girlfriend. Probly he's running around with her daughter.

If you've ever been to a poultry farm you'll know chickens smell bad, good question

Yep it best not to drive the truck till you can see the fuel pressure always staying above 14 p.s.i.. This is important to save your injection pump. On the stock fuel system, pulling away from stops, I would see the fuel pressure typically drop to 7 p.s.i. Soon as I got the 1/2'' lines installed it was a major difference. I put pedal to the metal going onto the freeway and it was 15 ps.i. all the time. wouldn't go down. Later I adjusted the fuel pressure to be around 19 and I could get it to drop to about 16 or so. BTW, I use the stock filter as a secondary filter and installed a primary filter before the lift pump to stop sediment from hurting the lift pump. The big line kit will make it so much less restrictive that it will allow for the filters it really needs.

Did you get to keep the coffee mug? Man I'd be all over that one trying to get it.

Going up hills you'll need a lock up differential or as they say power to both wheels or she will refuse to turn uphill or even go up in damp conditions. I had one without and was constantly having to pull it out of tight spots that I got stuck in. Later I got the lock up differential 455 and its a world of difference. You can find them for 5 k used and if taken care of will still be worth most of that later on down the road. The heavier 3 cylinder diesel engine gives plenty of weight in the front when climbing hills. It's a 22 hp Yanmar. Good machine and leaf blower/ mulcher. You'll be able to send back the leaves back to the neighbor easy.

Was the eggs and hash browns also good? Need to buy a lotto ticket before the day is over with luck such as that. Is the lighter for liten' the methane gas or do you have it shipped to AOC in tankers?

Thanks Dave110, It wasn't too bad as I had an original Bosch Alternator on the shelf with only about 60,000 on it so that saved the day when spending for a pair of new batteries. And new one only available at the dealer.

To continue with battery parallel upgrade requirements, one of the problems is when you have the B+ alternator charge wire running to the battery without the temperature compensation sensor. This battery developed a short in one of the cells and so without the sensor and without proper paralleling the alternator was told by the computer to go to full charge cycle. The computer could not slow down the charge rate and so the poor alternator worked itself to death. I do not know how additional parallel wires can help this situation because my knowledge is very limited. I wish W-T would help me here as I am such a novice Mopar1973Man, W-T isn't jumping for joy that this portion of his post was cut out and if I had done the 4 parallel wires would have saved my alternator instead of it hammering out all its guts on a shorted battery without any means of sensing the battery was getting hot. I think this is right......

Yes thank you IBMobile. That needs to be put back in the article,,,,,,, its an important integral part of the thread and article that W-T is trying so diligently to educate us on. Now this portion explaining the need to build a proper battery parallel or equalization was mistakenly discounted and considered unimportant by myself as well as others. I'm guilty mostly by means of wanting only quick results in reducing damaging AC voltage throughout the system. Now I have experienced a situation where imbalanced unequal batteries, ten years of age, left unreplaced because everything was firing up just dandy, without double battery parallel cables, caused a cooked smoking (I mean literally smoking) alternator. I will explain later.... it late and I'm tired from 3 hard days this week. Mike please put back what's missing into the article if you can, I be back tomorrow nite and repeat what W-T taught to me about this important aspect over the telephone today. Sorry I have to cut it short tonight...

Some need the use of a microscope if they know the general area.