CUMMINSDIESELPWR

yes i had it resurfaced, it was in good shape being the oem original.

i went with a valair kevlar ceramic on the nv5600 and rv275's... ive pulled well over 20,000 lbs (ram3500 with 30' camper attached) and had zero slips. nothing ive done will make it slip and i run 35" tires http://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/valair/NMU70279-06.htm

when hubs are out, clean the carriers and be generous about anti sieze on both surfaces when installing new hubs. you will understand when you take the old ones out.

reading through the thread, this is the thought i had as well, with enough PSI the injectors work both ways lol

i just take the 5 gal bucket and pour into the recycle bin at the parts store. it should be able to run backwards.

everytime i see it with my peripheral, i think my door is open or missing hahahaa

mounted and adjusted. seals good and everything works! gonna leave the 1500 v8 badge on to spoof people. the cummins badge i took off the old door ill make i to something nice.

it pulled cold 10-40 from the bmw so yeah its strong but crap bearings

sure saves my back now!

if it has a dipstick which my car and the cummins has, it will work i can also use it as a fuel transfer pump

yassa hahahaa, just put the leads to the battery posts, i have a switch built onto the existing relay harness, shove the clear tubes into the dipstick tube and the outlet into the 5gal bucket... flip it and watch! paid too damn much for this junk to let it go to waste. I also did take it apart to find out why it failed and the bearings they used are very very cheap chinese bearings that are allowing play in the rotor and causing a harmonic which slows the pump down. so now i have a fuel transfer pump or oil extractor!

so i finally found a use for my old electric lift pump. using it as an oil extractor for oil changes. works like a champ, tested it on the bmw. got all of it out (6.5qts) in about 5 minutes. so no more back breaking “get under things” to change oil.

there is one small freeze plug inside the gear case. arrow points to it. but i think the water pump is going if its not mixing coolant with oil

one in georgia now

i need to redo the driver seat and foam

im gonna do this myself, get the new housings and fit projectors in. i only run hid anymore even now in the truck with cheapo hid projectors (chinese crap) they work but suck. i run 55w hids too, moar brighter!!!! haha i just priced out the mini d2s projectors and apollo 2.0 shrouds from morimoto directly, plus the new housing from amazon and it will be less than $300 to do. winter project now!

so i scored a door on fecesbook marketplace, 2nd gen quad cab with zero rust. my current driver door has the bottom rusted out and will be swapping it out next week. ebay they run over $450-500 rust free.... i got it for $40 HAHAHAHA if anyone wants a mirror shoot me a price as i dont need it.

when i installed mine, it wouldnt hold pressure at all. took the bypass valve apart and found some debris (white sealer tape of my doing) holding the ball open. cleared it out and never had psi below 15-16 since. at speed i am around 22-25psi warmed up.

you installed it with about an inch of play on the belt? (loose) otherwise it will wear the journal bearings prematurely.

i left my OEM LP in place after installing the fuel boss, i need to connect gator clips to the power leads so i can prime on the go if needed. other than that the fuel boss is primary LP and since install back in 2011 or so, ZERO problems and on original drive belt.

being second owner of my truck i had to replace the oem IP around 160k miles.... ive got about 210k now on a reman pump and ive been using 2 stroke since its install.

i paid for genuine cummins when i did all seals gaskets. the front and rear main seals i wanted to do right the first time as i didnt want to tear into it to do it right the second time. some things are worth the money.

easier with backplate off for sure. i didnt have a new gasket for the seal backplate. but if you have a gasket, take the plate off as its aluminum and easy to score, then you are screwed.

when i did mine first time (during clutch replacement), i used a small drill bit to start a hole then used self tapping machine screws at 3'oclock and 9'oclock to drive in then pry on. you work the old seal out ensuring you dont score the crank seal face nor the housing seal face. once out, its easy to install. first put the plastic guide sleeve with seal on it, onto the crank face then slide the seal on. place the seal driver ring on top of the seal and evenly work the seal in then with progressive force to drive it evenly home with the seal tool till it doesnt seat further. take your time and do it right the first time, its worth the time. pics below are when i installed during engine rebuild. so you can see seating reference BTW the seal goes on dry. nothing needed on the outside nor inside of the seal. i didnt use any goop both times and had zero leaks

i have plain old bhaf connected to stock tube, with a wrap. still running great!