dorkweed

Don't be knocking the SuperTech oil. I ran that in Mighty Whitey for over 80,000 miles without a complete oil change out.

IMHTBHO; I believe you'll be fine running that brand of 2 stroke oil. TCW3 = Two Cycle Water-cooled...............and I'm assuming it's the 3rd time they upped the standards!! It's a standard the "outboard" boat motor manufacturers use. You should have no problems in your 3rd gen if you keep the concentrations to 1/2 ounce per 1 gallon of diesel fuel. That works out to about 16ounces per 32 gallon fill up!! I do have the fuel tank vent mod on my truck though. Many here cannot get the amount of fuel in their tanks that I do...........................but 1/2 ounce per 1 gallon of diesel is what I've been doing for 7+ years now and have just under 185,000 on the clock!!! Without fuel related issues at all!!

Real men don't get lost. They may not know where they are for a certain length of time; but not lost!!!

Bump. What did you find out???

CSS or cut, split, and stacked.....................I'd have to say 10+ full cords at least!! Kinda hard to gauge some of the pix though. I'm jealous. Do you have a big saw to buck the big ones??? Splitter???

RPRV = rail pressure relief valve???? If not that, then CP3.

Friends; this is well worth the watch and listen................especially when the one guy starts whistling!!! Joe http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=pLgJ7pk0X-s

No problemo!!! You're welcome.

Sales-Pud sounded a lot like most politicians IMHO!!! Trying to convince you that right in front of your eyes in not what you're seeing!!!

Are you sure the diesel that you're buying isn't a blend??? They must post a sticker on the pump if so. Look for it....................it may be small. Most of the diesel sold here in NE Illinois (the Peoples Republic) and SE Wisconsin is a bio-blend of anywhere from 5-20%. Also, all of the diesel I've bought in KY, MO, AR, IA, IN, MN, ND are blends...................you may wish to check that out!!! i still add my 2 stroke though.

You're a fair bit further North than I am here in northern Illinois, but I've run nothing but WallyWorld 2 stroke oil since....................How long has it been Michael????? In weather/wind as low a -25*F........never a gelling problem. Most 2 stroke oil has a lower pour point than diesel anyhow............so if you add it to diesel.........even in the crazy low ratios that we do..........it has to lower the pour point of your diesel. It may not be classified as "anit-gel", but because you can use it in "oil-injected" snow mobiles, it's gotta flow a super low temps and help straight diesel. Just my

How much, if any, increase in flow on the stock air horn would you achieve if you took a die grinder/file and got rid of flashing/extra metal??? Or is it just the "squarish" shape of the horn in general that impedes flow???

No vacuum controls on 3rd gens Russ.........all DC motors.........which is probably why the stops break off, and then the doors fracture/break. From my research, these motors are quite strong..........that coupled with weak and brittle plastic is a recipe for disaster!!

IIRC; I read a long time ago about something like this..............wound up being the a blown head gasket leaking into an adjacent cylinder. Don't remember any more than that or where I read it though.:shrug:You must have good ears to hear a pinging though...............with a straight piped 2nd gen!!!!!

Just the doors are removed and replaced with metal ones with metal hardware. All work done under the dash after taking the dash front panels off. They make kits for 2nd gens also. Here's the link. http://www.heatertreater.net

I ordered the 4 door kit today.........$265.00 delivered.:spend: My temp dial/blend door is not working so well, and I don't think my recirculation door is working either. Oh well!! Gotta wait for some warmer weather to tackle this though.

Pull up any codes via the odometer.

High revving diesels.........like in Europe require a higher cetane rating.........so all the fuel is ignited and burned before the exhaust stroke.In the winter/cold weather, higher cetane is beneficial for starting and extended idling(not recommended)!!!:smart:Our Cummins recommend a cetane rating of 40-45 IIRC. In Europe, the diesel sold there is usually 50+ in rating.Cetane is inversely proportional to Octane. Cetane rating is a system developed to chart the fuels ability to self ignite...........Octane rating is a system developed to chart the fuels ability to RESIST self ignition.

My '99 came from the factory with LT245/75 16E's..........Michelin LTX's............125,000 miles on those bad boys before replacement!!!

Have you replaced the rubber brake lines from the hardlines to the calipers??? Sometimes the insides break down and act as a "check valve" when you apply the brakes. When you release the brakes, the fluid cannot flow back due to the obstruction in the line, thus causing the caliper not to release.

They're refering to the "double cardan joint" in the front driveshaft. It looks like two u-joints back to back. It's a needle grease fitting, and hard/impossible to see. I've never greased mine, because I cannot find it.

My hubs were very warm after the 50 mile drive home from my Buds house.......................it was over 100* that day though. I think once the bearings "set in" a bit they won't get as warm. Some could have been "heat soak" from the brakes. Mine don't even get warm now as it's cold, unless I'm on the brakes a lot. All your impressions so far are the same as mine.

I check mine every so often also.........never been loose.

Looking forward to your write-up and your SOP impressions.

Hey, don't sweat it...................my cousin that lives in Manassas and works at Quantico, had to get double, secret, probation clearance to go onto the roof of the building that he's in charge of to................get this.................just to clear the snow off the satelite dishes!!!!!How'd you like to be shot for actually doing your job???!!!