dorkweed

MY 2 micron secondary filter is from GDP.......Glacier Diesel Power. Richard the owner is a great guy and a fountain of knowledge. Here's a picture of the set up.

much advancement in a big company/corporation revolves around the "it's who you know/blow" thing. Something I've never been a part of. I call a "spade a spade" and don't look back..........because it's the truth.Be true to yourself ISX. Make yourself happy and don't worry about what Ma and Pa think.

In the recent past, I've had clients (still have the clients) that have had horses on the short list for both the PanAm Games and the Olympic Tryouts. Crazy politics involved in those venues though...........as my clients found out in short order. Great midwest horses are not allowed to place over or win over fair East coast horses!!!

Wanna learn to shoe horses???? It's hard, but if'n your good you make good money. I can teach you.

Been 2 stroking since 2006. Go over to CF and find my thread entitled,"First Time w/2stroke". For years that was the largest and longest lived thread there even though the moderators there were totally against it.......................remember Mike????I also run a 2 micron fuel filter after the 7 micron filter in the OEM canister. Clean fuel is a must in the CR's due to the high pressures and tight tolerances. AH64ID can give you the specs on secondary filtration.I run 1/2oz. 2 stroke oil per 1 gallon of diesel; or what I usually do is dump 16oz. in my tank when I fill up, as I usually fill up with about 31-32+ gallons of diesel. I get no value by running more 2 stroke in my CR. I'd recommend you start there and run a tank; then experiment up or down if you want.2 stroke is the only fuel additive I've used since 2006 also. No injectors cleaners, sea foam, anti-gel stuff etc.

Have you considered the very rewarding careers in the circus or carnival industry???:lmao:Just kidding. I don't know what to tell you man. I have a college degree. Do I need it doing what I do now?????? Absolutely not!!!!!! If I could do it differently, would I still go to college????? Yeah, maybe, I dunno. I do know this though...........if you can work with your hands, and are good at it, you'll always find work. Trick is finding what you're good at and if there's a market for it!!!Head up to NoDak and get a job in the oil fields there.

How dare you use a Furd battery in your Dodge/Cummins!!!! Sacrilege!!!!

Excellent post!!!

My guess; seeing that it's an '03 with 284+k miles, I'm gonna say injectors. My Bud JD has an '03 and had the same symptoms at about 260-270k miles.....................what you said, it'll crank, but not fire in the AM. His was the same first thing in the AM, so until he fixed it, he disconnected the grid heater and gave her a small shot of ether to get her started. For the rest of the day his truck would be fine...........but sitting overnight was another thing. New injectors solved it. I believe it had to do with return flow from the injector after so many injections the tollerances erode. The later '04s and '04.5+'s had a slightly modified injector design I believe.The sucky part is that common rail injectors are not cheap. You probably looking at around $2500 for 6!!!

Know a guy in the window glazers union here in Illinois.His nick-name is "Caulky"!!

I wouldn't go so far as to say it's the truth..........yet. Those two compilations could also be the result of reporters, medical examiners, teachers, etc. not verifying facts, names, jobs, and times etc. all in the effort to be the first to get it out there or be on TV. It is interesting though. My own personal belief is that certain parts of government, along with the Liberal media are spinning and altering facts to suit an agenda................you decide which agenda...........there are a number of them out there!!!

Check this one out...........it's long but an eye opener!!!

How can the timing not change with RPM????

The MM hubs in my SpynTec kit engage and disengage solidly and quite easily. They give you a little plastic tool to turn the hubs back and forth...........to give some purchase on the little handle, but mine turn easily and smoothly enough without it. I've tried turning other manual hubs in the past that were impossible without a pair of plyers or vise-grips!!!!! Don't know if it was lack of lube or maintenance on them though.

How do the 12valvers advance timing with increased engine RPM???? It's a mechanical advance, correct???? If Rogans truck falls flat at higher RPM, maybe something is off, or broken, or stuck in the advancement mechanism.Just typing out my butt here!!!!

My front passenger side window no longer works. Nothing from both the passenger side switch or the drivers side master panel switch. That would lead me to believe it's the motor..........correct????? Or is this run thru the PCM also???I have no test equipment, so have do I check for where the problem is??? That window was always slower up and down than the others; even when new. In fact, on last years NoDak hunting trip, it was in and out...........sometimes it'd work, sometimes not.Thanks in advance!!

Word of advise..........don't do the install in 104* temps!!!!! I would've taken pix of my install, but like I said, greasy, dirty, sweaty hands and arms and faces don't go together well with cameras!!!!!

By the title of this thread, I thought it was gonna be X-rated!!!:lmao2:The only time I get moisture condensing/freezing on the inside of my truck is if I leave a window open while the truck is shutdown. That doesn't include driving in the damp or cold without the defroster on though. Never from sitting.

How many miles on this engine???? Any blowby????? Ever done an oil analysis to see what that says??

In my prior post, the 19.6mpg tank, I had several 10 minute warm ups to get the ice melting off the windows!!! You and trucks don't get along it'd seem. You must have someone dipping you, or you've got a brake dragging or you're using tar as engine oil!!!! You did get rid of the Frankenstein shoes......didn't you??? I couldn't get that bad of mileage even if I tried to!!!!

I got 20.9mpg and 19.6mpg on a hunting trip to Arkansas Christmas week with the 2 tanks I went thru. Right at 600 miles one way.

My GDP Walbro LP system is still going strong. Almost 7 years now!!!!

If you're getting the "dead pedal", then it could very likely be the APPS. The APPS on my truck is under the battery tray on the drivers side also. Not difficult to change out at all.The FCA (fuel control accuator) is on the CP3. It meters the fuel entering the CP3 and is mounted on the CP3 itself. The easiest way to access it is to remove the drivers side tire, the inner plastic wheel well liner, and then you're looking right at the CP3. That's how to get at the APPS also!!!

It's a good thing he didn't post about pumpkin. That's another game rednecks play in some parts of the country!!!!

x2. While reading this, I was thinking IAT sensor or FCA..........especially with the injector rattle. Try plugging your truck in overnight to see if that has any effect also.